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-   -   Down siding jumps (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/393788-down-siding-jumps.html)

GSMnow 04-29-2010 09:19 AM

Down siding jumps
 
I have an interesting problem. My car is just too darn fast!

On the new track layout (and one double on the old one) I find myself way over jupmping and landing flat. On the old layout, it was only one double, and over jumping it 3 fet was no big deal, the car landed clean and I didn't loose much time there, but on the new track, there are like 5 places where it is beneficial to down side the hill to get a good line into the following curve and onto the main straight. My first laps at the new Hot Rod layout were comical. I thought I took it a little easy into the triple/double, OUCH, I cleared the triple and the nose hit into the double after it. Second lap, I took it even easier, still flat landed well after the triple, and when it hit the double, it went so far, I landed on the tube at the outsdei of the following turn. I had the same story on the remaining doubles as well. I hit them at wha I felt was pretty slow, and just stayed airborn well past the down side hill. After 4 laps, I found a pace that just about hitt he down side where I wanted it, but it looked so slow, especially the run between the triple and double. It looked like I was crawling. I swear that many of the other 1/8's were going much faster there, but still doing a nice down side. What am I doing wrong? Their arc just seems "pointier" as it leaves the jump, the car rotates the nose down a bit and starts coming down while mine looked like it was going for a flight. I have tried a little brake ince in the air, and it sure does tilt the nose down, but the cars flight path was still a flat and long arc going out too far. Are they hitting brakes while on the take off ramp?

I had the same issue when I went to OCRC. I found a trigger position tat I could hold through a rough section into the table top, and it would downside it pretty good, but many other cars were much faster in the lead up to the hill, and still down siding it. I kept pace with one, he downsided, I flat landed 5 feet further out, from 7 feet in the air SMACK!! My car must be on Red Bull.

Is there something I need to do with the shocks to not get so "launched"? I did change my rear wing to the greater downforce angle. Could that be hurting? Pushing the tail down might be lifting the nose and allowing more air to be caught? Is this possible?

It may very well just be how I am driving it, but I need to know what I am doing wrong. This car just wants to fly.

Wild Cherry 04-29-2010 09:21 AM

First adjust the slipper , sounds like you are adjusting on the tight side ....

Loosen it a bit ....

GSMnow 04-29-2010 09:24 AM


Originally Posted by Wild Cherry (Post 7337046)
First adjust the slipper , sounds like you are adjusting on the tight side ....

Loosen it a bit ....

This is a 1/8 Electric conversion with no slipper. It is capable of putting down silly torque to the wheels, but I am being quie gentle on the throttle in these cases. I am not spinning the tires, I am at a steady speed as I hit the triple and most of the doubles.

R40Victim 04-29-2010 09:27 AM

It's pretty much ALWAYS faster to downside a jump. When you do, you get the wheels back on the track sooner, to get the speed you lost in the air, back. One trick to "Fly" the car nicely, is let off the throttle just as you crest the jump. It will allow your springs to load and unload a bit before you leave the jump.

Try it, throttle manipulation is KEY in 8th scale when flying the car. ;)

badassrevo 04-29-2010 09:30 AM

You just need to learn how to leave the ramp and how to bring the nose down in the air. You also might have too much spring in your front shocks making the car pop off the ramp.

Squintz 04-29-2010 09:30 AM


Originally Posted by Wild Cherry (Post 7337046)
First adjust the slipper , sounds like you are adjusting on the tight side ....

Loosen it a bit ....

1/8 Scale Geo= no slipper.

They may be using brakes to scrub speed before jumping. This is a very fast technique if done properly but can be hard to master.

More than likely you need to work on the setup a bit so you do not have as much "Pop" off the jumps. If there is another section on the track where you need to clear a large obstacle thats where your motor will help =).
Also works the other way around. If motor is not getting you over the obstacle then you need to work on how the car jumps, and then learn a good line for the smaller obstacles.

Brad

Wild Cherry 04-29-2010 09:32 AM

GS

In your case try


adjust the arc throttle on your Transmitter
-15%<> -30%

Lower rear ride height

less anti squat

move rear hub to center position, not all the way forward

armourbl 04-29-2010 09:35 AM

From my limited experience, it is all about throttle position, timing, and braking mid air sometimes. The same scenarios play into Motocross racing/riding as well, which I'm more experienced with.

I can easily over jump most if not all of the obstacles on my track too, but when I'm lucky enough to time it right that I catch the landings smoothly, it benefits the car and my lap times.

From watching racing videos on YouTube, it seems like sometimes going for that big air is not really the fastest way around the track. Calculated risk. On the motocross track, I can do all of the jumps, even the really big ones, but sometimes I choose not to from some reason or another. Of times, it is because I know that I can setup for the next turn more easily. This gives me the advantage and often times the pass.

ben

Razathorn 04-29-2010 09:54 AM

Brake/let off as you approach the jump fast. Many times in 1/8 electric or nitro, I fly up to a jump, then brake/let off as I go up/over which makes the car nose down pretty good in the air -- 45 degrees or more depending on how much I've done. This makes the car slow down and want to drop and takes definite distance off the flight of the car. In addition, this makes it so you can correct the landing and or "get more distance" by leveling out mid flight with a throttle application. I do this in electric 4wd as well. One time we had a little double that was right after a straight -- I would come up full power, then ride the brakes hard, then coast over the double. The car looked like it was magnetized to the track.

MotoGod 04-29-2010 09:57 AM

You could tap the brakes before you go up the face of the jump to scrub some speed off while still accelerating into the jump. The electrics don't need run up to most jumps out there, but they do require a precise throttle finger for sure! I run an 808 Buggy conversion with a Castle 2650 combo running on a 4s. I can jump an entire rhythm section if I really want to, but I'd crash and lose more time than I would just jumping it safer.

Coming from Nitro...I had a HEAVY throttle finger. That played against me BIG time in the eBuggy world.....now I'm learning. I also turned back my Throttle end point to like 85% in order for me to get used to the buggy, then gradually turned it back up to 95% or so.

Expo might help...but really it's your throttle finger ;-)

Razathorn 04-29-2010 10:09 AM


Originally Posted by MotoGod (Post 7337171)
You could tap the brakes before you go up the face of the jump to scrub some speed off while still accelerating into the jump. The electrics don't need run up to most jumps out there, but they do require a precise throttle finger for sure! I run an 808 Buggy conversion with a Castle 2650 combo running on a 4s. I can jump an entire rhythm section if I really want to, but I'd crash and lose more time than I would just jumping it safer.

Coming from Nitro...I had a HEAVY throttle finger. That played against me BIG time in the eBuggy world.....now I'm learning. I also turned back my Throttle end point to like 85% in order for me to get used to the buggy, then gradually turned it back up to 95% or so.

Expo might help...but really it's your throttle finger ;-)

On my 2650, I just geared way down and turned the timing down. It's probably around 10% faster than my nitro now, but with gobs of torque. For me, the castle is so mushy at the bottom that I have to use MORE trigger in the rhythm sections than my nitro -- I need to set my throttle curve (line) to start at around 10-20% and be linear after that I think.

scwrod 04-29-2010 10:29 AM

It is all about the throttle finger. You will have to judge your speed off the jumps. If you are over jumping then slow down next time. I run 1/8 e and I do not make adjustments on my esc to help me jump. You just have to drive it :)

TY@TEAMTEKIN 04-29-2010 10:41 AM

Don't start changing everything on your car. You have to practice coming up to the ramp fast and scrubbing speed on the face so you don't overfly everything. It takes some practice and a little drag brake can even help you out.

Casper 04-29-2010 11:01 AM

This is a lesson of slow is fast. HRH has been making there track for SC trucks for good reason. They are super popular out there. You need to learn to slow down for the jumps. Like others have stated down siding is much faster and I know this is what you are trying to do. Even though it feels slow driving the track as it is layed out is the almost always the fastest way around and trying muscle your way around just hurts lap times. Slow down and try and be smooth and in control. Use the power were you can and back it down for the rest of the track. It may not ultimately be as "fun" as going as fast as the car will go but if you are looking at improving your lap times, slowing down is the key. The triple double section looks like it may be hit the triple and roll through the double into the corner. Let the momentum from the triple take you over the double and then turn around and go up the hill. I will have dirven the track until this sunday but seeing the pics I can see where you are having issues. Slow and smooth will produce the best lap times on a track like this. It looks like a ton of fun! :D

MotoGod 04-29-2010 11:14 AM


Originally Posted by Razathorn (Post 7337219)
On my 2650, I just geared way down and turned the timing down. It's probably around 10% faster than my nitro now, but with gobs of torque. For me, the castle is so mushy at the bottom that I have to use MORE trigger in the rhythm sections than my nitro -- I need to set my throttle curve (line) to start at around 10-20% and be linear after that I think.

I geared mine down quite a bit as well. Running 15/48 at the moment in a Buggy....I was at 15/42 previously and it was WAY too fast! My timing is set to I believe 1 notch above the bottom in the drop down list from Castle Link.

Drives GREAT for me now, but my throttle finger is a tad more skilled now as well...I find myself going too easy on the throttle in sections. So now I need to step it up a notch or 2 and I should be golden.


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