losi xxxt mf2 tips


Old 03-28-2010, 07:16 PM
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Default losi xxxt mf2 tips

i am about to but the losi xxxt mf2 and i am wondering if there are ant tips or just things i should know about the car
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Old 03-28-2010, 07:58 PM
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well some people say the gear box is not the strongest for brushless mod motors. I only run stock in mine and have never had a problem... so my only comment would be....dont over power the gear box.

Apart from that, I have nothing.
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Old 03-28-2010, 08:03 PM
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The transmission can handle any motor you bolt into the car, the reason they have a rep for being delicate is that they can crack from hard, tumbling crashes due to the case plastic being somewhat brittle and that they're only connected to the car with 3 screws (load bearing screws, there are 2 more that hold on the motor guard) so when the T-plate flexes really hard it can cause cracks. I've cracked a few over the years but still run my MF2, its a great truck.

Get the CR chassis and use the latest CR setups, you won't be disappointed in how it runs.
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Old 03-31-2010, 06:57 PM
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goggle and print out MF2 setups/tips.. just found some and am experimenting, so far so good
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Old 04-01-2010, 06:33 PM
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I made a brace out of 1/10 inch thick lexan that bolts on the top of the gearbox with the motor gaurd (use longer screws and tape the holes) and it is a press fit notch around the shock tower bracing where it has the cros on front of the gear box. This has greatly reduced the number of gearboxes I broke, from 3 in 3 months to one lasting 6 months.

This truck is also prone to snapping off the ball stud for the rear camber link if you cartwheel it bad off of a big jump. And they are in blind holes. I suggest drilling the one you are using all the way through, then you may have a chance of getting it out so you don't need a new shock tower when it happens. The rear rims (common to all XXX-T's) get out of round from impacts. I never bother saving the rims for new rubber, by the time the tire is worn out, the rim is wobbling all over. Oh, I almost forgot, the blck that holds the front end of the rear hinge pins is not the best design. Is stock trim, a bad catrwheel can crack the pin out the side. I recomend addind a 1/8 inch wheel collar (DuBro makes them) on the rear hinge pins between the two legs of the rear arms. Push the pin as far forward as you can, and push the collar against the inside of the back leg of the arm. The stock setup uses the motor plate and rear bumper to stop the pins from sliding out the back, this is not good enough andyou end up with just a tiny bit of the pin in that front block, the wheel collars keep the pins all the way in the front block, no matter what and I have not broken one of those little blocks since.

The rest of the truck has been very tough. The only front arm I broke was in a head on collision with a REVO.

The chassis is very rigid and all the normal tuning adjustments respond very well making it easy to dial in the handling you like. If you add more than 2 shims of anti squat, the rear inner hinge pins will drag on the diff out drives. The revised Gen 2 setup uses shorter dog bones in back, but the result is they run in the same position all the time in the diff outdrives. They will wear in a notch, and the first thing you will notice is the truck is loose all over the track when you are on power, possibly brake too, but mine was far worse on forward. The notch binds the rear suspension. Took me forever to figure out why I was so loose after having great handling almost all summer.

Last thing I can think of, the stock XXX front sway bar kit sucks. It replaces the aluminum front arm pin brace with plastic, and even a minor hit on a front wheel with those long front arms and it popped. I used the rear sway bar mounts on the front shock tower, and had to bend up my own bar and thread ball links into the holes on the front arms, it is a pain to get in, but on our track, the front bar made it so much easier to drive.
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Old 04-03-2010, 01:40 AM
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Im wondering, which is the best way to bleed Losi shocks and still get rebound out of them??
Everytime I compress, It shoots out the fluid and air. Which im only doing till the air bubbles stop and solid fluid comed out! But then the shock compresses half way and stays there!!
TIPS WELCOME, But im about ready to throw them in the trash and buy some associated ones!!!!!
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Old 04-03-2010, 09:53 AM
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When I fill my 1/10 Losi shocks, I have them carefully held in a vice, straight up. Fill the body to about 1/8 inch below the top. Let them sit a while for all of the air to come to the surface. Filling them slow puts very little air in, take your time. With the shock rod fully extended, insert the cartridge slowly, it will force out a little oil at this time. Just start the threads. More oil wil ooze out as you get the cartridge threaded down, so it slow and all the air should come out first. Leave it just about a half turn from tight. Now very slowly compress the shock. It should be firm to push, and oil will ooze out as the rod goes in. Once the rod is all the way in, hold it there and tighten the cartridge the rest of the way into the body. The Losi shocks do not have a pressure bladder, so it will not hold as much compression, it is normal for them to only expand out about 1/4 to 1/2 from the internal pressure, this is perfectly normal, the spring will do the extension. Do both sides of one end together. If one extend further than the other, bleed out a tiny bit more to make them match. Also pull the rod in and out quick and listen. If you hear a lot of swoosh from bubbles, you may have to do it over, a little air noise is always going to happen with this design, but it does not hurt the operation. Once you have the pair feeling the same and extending about the same amount, put the spring on them and you should be all set. Even shocks with the pressure bladder in the top rarely self extend all the way by themselves without the spring.
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