Pin2Win

iTrader: (19)

I would space the ball stud out before the shock. I haven't noticed any unsual wear on mine yet. You could also try a new ball cup as they will wear and get loose enough to easily pop off.

TheZoof

Anyone have a good setup for 201 on a bumpy, low traction surface that has loose dirt on outside and hard packed dirt down the center?

I have been racing(ugh trying) the 201 since it came out and I can't compete. Our track is pretty tight however I just don't have the traction other cars do. I am the only one running a 201 at our local track. The most popular car is the X-Factory mid motor car.

I just bought some brand new flip-outs to try. Hopefully they make a difference(although I tried some slightly warn ones last week).

I added a bit of weight to the front of the car(about 6 peices of lead).

I currently have 25 wt oil in front with 20 wt in the back.

Front end is slightly higher than rear.

Running ASC brown spring in front and Green in back.

I played around with roll center quite a bit to get more steering in the car but now front end is good and rear end sucks for traction.

Running furthest out hole in rear shocks(on arm) and mid hole in tower.

Running middle hole in front arms and highest on shock tower for front.


That's about all I can think of. Let me know if you have ideas or send me setup sheet to (gwailo12(at)hotmail.com).

Thanks!

hopsing

iTrader: (13)

I would start out adding more weight to the car. Check out some of the set up sheets and you'll see that weight is added at the rear of the chassis in the "rear triangles" (usually about 7 grams per side) Some guys run the lipo weight under the battery for extra weight as well. Some guys even add weight arouond the servo area. I really think the extra weight in the middle and rear of the car will help and the 201 seems to respond real well to the extra weight. I would also go up in oil to 30 frt and 25 rear and set your ride height at 24mm front and rear to start. What pistons are you running? The oil set up you have just seems to light to me. It will roll around too much and transfer weight too quickly.

hopsing

iTrader: (13)

And link to some set up sheets... although very few for a loose track. http://www.petitrc.com/setup/tamiya/...yaTRF201X.html

TheZoof

I am sorry to add but I have 3 chunks of weight in the back behind the battery.

At one time I also ran a peice of lead under the entire battery however I didn't notice much of a difference in car response on our track.

I am running a 13.5 with boost. I have a 24 pinion with the stock spur gear(79t I think).


I wouldn't complain normally and I am a decent driver(been racing over 20 years) however the fact I can't get traction really sucks.

When I loosened my slipper a bit it did help however then I couldn't make the jumps.

The X-factory cars seem to be able to jump further and have more traction overall.

Thanks for the tips! I will add more weight to the car, again. I will also copy one of the setups I see here for a 'baseline'.

TheZoof

I see that they seem to run different pistons in the 'pro setups'.

What hole size is the stock TRF? I see 1.4 x 2 and 1.3 x 2 etc listed in setups.

Also I see a comment about the 'wing'. What does 7" mean and then they circle the number beside it?

Thanks for your help. Hopefully I can get this car to go better!

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/tamiya/...008/Index.html

This is the setup that I am thinking of trying. Anyone know what Pro Line tires he means???

hopsing

iTrader: (13)

With the car that light in oil and the added weight I'm sure the car is bottoming out very easily on the jumps upon take off and reducing both the speed and the ability to jump consistently and far. Try to go up in oil and and adjust your ride height. Adding some rear camber may also help if you are set at 0 deg right now, I like to run 1-2 deg of camber depending on the track.

hopsing

iTrader: (13)

7" is the width of the wing from side to side. You'll see where some guys say they run "full lip" which is the back of the wing (or gurney). Full lip means that the back lip is the same height as the side dams of the wing. More lip means generally means more rear traction.... .

TheZoof

Ahh so they are not running one of the stock wings that comes with the car???




I am currently running 2 deg camber in the rear and 1 deg camber in the front.

I also have the upgrade alum toe in blocks for the rear. I have the 1 degree installed right now.

I see the 'pros' don't use that so I might go back to the plastic for the next race.

hopsing

iTrader: (13)

Some guys like the aluminum hubs, some dont. I know Randy here likes the stock plastic hubs over the aluminum.

One other thing to try is going to the middle hole on the arm in the rear. Running on the outside may be limiting your droop too much and not allowing the car to roll enough in the rear compared to the front.

hopsing

iTrader: (13)

Maybe try Randy's set up here.. http://www.petitrc.com/setup/tamiya/...es20100703.pdf


This is actually very close to where I was going with your set up....

AaronR

iTrader: (113)

.5 degree rear hubs should gain you some rear traction too.

TheZoof

I am running 1 degree hubs, you think less toe in will allow more forward traction?

hopsing

iTrader: (13)

Where are you having problems with rear traction? Forward bite? Off power entering a turn? On power mid way thru or exiting the turn?

TheZoof

I hate to be vague but the car is having problems with all of these areas.

Definitely having problem with forward bite however also after a turn. My mid corner grip is 'ok' because my speed is really low.

I will move to one of these baseline setups and see where I am at.

I also hope new tires will help(Proline Flip Outs)