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Tamiya TRF2WD thread

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Tamiya TRF2WD thread

Old 09-22-2015, 04:32 AM
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Hey guys I have a question. I have not had a Tamiya in a long time and now I have two lol. I just picked up a 211 and I am curious as to what you guys are using for front wheels. I am trying to keep it stock. I currently have Durango Style front wheels but I think they are a little too wide. They work but I think they are just a hair off. Any help would be appreciated. Making the cars debut this weekend. And I am looking forward to it.
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Old 09-22-2015, 11:32 AM
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Most people have converted over to the BMax front hex hubs and the B5 front hex hubs
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Old 09-22-2015, 12:58 PM
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What do you need to make the conversion? I am highly interested in doing that.
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Old 09-22-2015, 01:25 PM
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here you go- http://www.petitrc.com/setup/tamiya/...nversionBuild/
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Old 09-22-2015, 02:50 PM
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Personally, I use Tamiya wheels. But whatever you like is the way to go. The advantage of the 12mm conversion is more wheel options and being able to share with others. But you will find that the Tamiya plastic wheels are true, colorful, and very durable.
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Old 09-23-2015, 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Sohlman113 View Post
What do you need to make the conversion? I am highly interested in doing that.
Use the AE B5 parts. You will need the caster block, spindle, axle, hinge pins and bushings. The only mod you will need to do is make the outer hole on the Tamiya a-arm large enough to accept the AE hinge pin. super easy and cheap.
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Old 10-04-2015, 12:29 PM
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Default TRF 211 XM, width of the tub ?

The new TRF 211 XM:
does anybody know whether the tub is wide enough to place the speedo and the Receiver on each side beside a regular 2S LiPo battery like it is used in the touring Cars? I am a touring Car driver and interested in the new 211 XMbut don't want to spend money for new Saddle Packs / Shorty style batteries.

In the manual of the 211XM it is shown that the speedo and receiver can be mounted beside a regular hard case touring Car battery, but they are standing on their sidewall. Because of the speedos Fan this is no Option for me, also not mounting them on top of the batterie because of center of Gravity.

My Speedo is a LRP Flow Works Team, width: 32mm
Receiver is a Sanwa RX 471, width: 23.3mm
Batteries: Lrp Competition Car Line Hardcase 6000, width: 47mm

Thanks!
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Old 10-04-2015, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Evo4ever View Post
The new TRF 211 XM:
does anybody know whether the tub is wide enough to place the speedo and the Receiver on each side beside a regular 2S LiPo battery like it is used in the touring Cars? I am a touring Car driver and interested in the new 211 XMbut don't want to spend money for new Saddle Packs / Shorty style batteries.

In the manual of the 211XM it is shown that the speedo and receiver can be mounted beside a regular hard case touring Car battery, but they are standing on their sidewall. Because of the speedos Fan this is no Option for me, also not mounting them on top of the batterie because of center of Gravity.

My Speedo is a LRP Flow Works Team, width: 32mm
Receiver is a Sanwa RX 471, width: 23.3mm
Batteries: Lrp Competition Car Line Hardcase 6000, width: 47mm

Thanks!
Just got the TRF211 XM chassis to convert my TRF201 XMW. I installed my 5000mah 47mm width hard case battery and measured 29mm from the battery edges to the chassis edges; battery was centered as much as possible. Looks like your receiver will have no problem but your ESC is a little wide. From the edge of the battery to the OUTside edge of the chassis is approximately 31.5mm. So even if you dremeled a spot for the ESC, it would stick outside of the edge of the chassis slightly(that is assuming you would want to allow a little cutting done to your chassis). Hope this helps
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Old 10-05-2015, 01:16 AM
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Originally Posted by ob1n View Post
Just got the TRF211 XM chassis to convert my TRF201 XMW. I installed my 5000mah 47mm width hard case battery and measured 29mm from the battery edges to the chassis edges; battery was centered as much as possible. Looks like your receiver will have no problem but your ESC is a little wide. From the edge of the battery to the OUTside edge of the chassis is approximately 31.5mm. So even if you dremeled a spot for the ESC, it would stick outside of the edge of the chassis slightly(that is assuming you would want to allow a little cutting done to your chassis). Hope this helps
Thank you so much for your detailed and quick response! Looks like I will stay with my touring cars TRF 419 & TB Evo 6 😉😊
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Old 10-12-2015, 04:37 PM
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Hey guys. Looking to run 211 on carpet this weekend in 17.5 buggy. Anyone have a good set up or where to get one. And I know about the front hex conversion and what's needed. Is there anyway to put a rear hex on this car. And if so who's hex do you use and what is needed. Thanks for all the help.
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Old 10-12-2015, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Sohlman113 View Post
Hey guys. Looking to run 211 on carpet this weekend in 17.5 buggy. Anyone have a good set up or where to get one. And I know about the front hex conversion and what's needed. Is there anyway to put a rear hex on this car. And if so who's hex do you use and what is needed. Thanks for all the help.
Im finding this work a treat.

Front shocks, 450 cst/Yatabe Orange spring/Kit holes on arms/tower

Rear shocks, 400 cst/Yatabe Black spring/Kit holes on arms/tower

Rear camber link, one hole up from kit on the tower, spacer in front of the outer hub/LWB.

Anti squat front hanger shim removed.

18mm ride all round.

10g added either side of the shorty at the rear of the chassis, along with a 55g under shorty weight.

Rear hexes, i did the Yokomo conversion, so i run YZ2 rear hexes.

Hope that helps a little, im not great at recording all my set up work.

Bests......Lee
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Old 10-12-2015, 05:57 PM
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The rear hex for this car can be used from the TRF503 and set ups can be found on PETIT RC
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Old 11-14-2015, 03:46 AM
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Hi fellas,

I just built my 201 XR with parts bought from Od1n and a donor car bought from a fellow on another forum. The donor car came with Associated FT shocks, and the front shocks are bottoming out early (before the front part of the chassis bottoms out). Is this the case on your cars?
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Old 11-14-2015, 07:03 AM
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Originally Posted by ingannilo View Post
Hi fellas,

I just built my 201 XR with parts bought from Od1n and a donor car bought from a fellow on another forum. The donor car came with Associated FT shocks, and the front shocks are bottoming out early (before the front part of the chassis bottoms out). Is this the case on your cars?
Wrong shock for the car... the AE shocks are a tad bit longer than the Tamiya counterparts... you will need to measure the shock Body length.. and after that I can give you a better Idea on which way to go..
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Old 11-14-2015, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by JDM_DOHC_SiR View Post
Wrong shock for the car... the AE shocks are a tad bit longer than the Tamiya counterparts... you will need to measure the shock Body length.. and after that I can give you a better Idea on which way to go..
I don't have calipers, so these measurements aren't perfect, but I did my best. The metal body of the front shocks are about 2.8cm long. Measuring from the bottom end of the bottom cap to the top of the metal body, the front shocks are almost exactly 3.5cm. Bottom of the bottom cap to the beginning of the bevel on the top cap is almost exactly 4cm.

It'd be really nice if there was a fix for these, because I have spring sets to tune them. Otherwise... are there any less-than-crazy-expensive places to find the factory TRF shocks? The two tracks I drive don't have a lot of big air, so I'm not really after the big bores. What about other shocks that *are* an appropriate fit?
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