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Tamiya TRF2WD thread

Old 10-28-2013, 08:27 PM
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I'll do the t-plate mod and rebuild the dampers at work tomorrow. I still have to finish painting my Finisher body. I cut the sides too high but it will still work. The weighted front block is on my list too, but it will have to weight... I know, horrible pun. And as much as I want to do the hex conversion I am sticking with the standard set up because I like running the pink wheels.
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Old 10-28-2013, 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Scargoes View Post
And as much as I want to do the hex conversion I am sticking with the standard set up because I like running the pink wheels.
Me too!

Sorry the pic is sideways.
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya TRF2WD thread-image.jpg  
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Old 10-29-2013, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by pwrslider View Post
Me too!

Sorry the pic is sideways.
Heeeeyyy... Where's your protons
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Old 10-29-2013, 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Scargoes View Post
as much as I want to do the hex conversion I am sticking with the standard set up because I like running the pink wheels.
Pink wheels are cool.. but.. Tamiya needs to do a hex conversion update.. we shouldn't have to do a conversion..
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Old 11-04-2013, 12:35 AM
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Anyone know what the wheelbase becomes when you swap the left and right rear arms on the XR/XM?
Seems to me like -11mm or -12mm?
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Old 11-04-2013, 07:02 AM
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I'd like to hear input on this, I'm not exactly sure as to the reason for using a longer chassis then shortening the wheel base?
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Old 11-04-2013, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by motobigalow View Post
I'd like to hear input on this, I'm not exactly sure as to the reason for using a longer chassis then shortening the wheel base?
Yeah I am trying to wrap my head around this too.
I brought it up because in the XM manual it says to flip the arms when more rear traction is required. It just seems to me like this would make the wheelbase awfully short.
From the pictures I have seen of Lee Martins car at the worlds, he was running the flipped arms. But it seems like his proto chassis was even longer than the XR.

So this is my theory on what Tamiya did for the Worlds.
1. Make +11mm XR
2. Make XM kit
3. Try to place more weight over rear axle by flipping arms and getting the axle centerline closer to the mid motor.
4. Flipping arms shortens the wheel base so make a new chassis that will keep the wheelbase +11mm even with the arms swapped.
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Old 11-07-2013, 10:00 AM
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Im currently building up an Xm and have only the #51279 501x rear arms, which do not have the shock mounting holes on both sides. SO I am forced to build it up in the flipped configuration.

This puts the shocks at a really bad angle, Cant see how this can work. Theres about a 10-12mmmm wheelbase change by flipping the arms. I am thinking about shaving 5mm off of the arms to gain some wheelbase back and maybe put the shocks at a more perpendicular angle.
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Old 11-08-2013, 12:58 AM
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Originally Posted by fobtions View Post
Im currently building up an Xm and have only the #51279 501x rear arms, which do not have the shock mounting holes on both sides. SO I am forced to build it up in the flipped configuration.

This puts the shocks at a really bad angle, Cant see how this can work. Theres about a 10-12mmmm wheelbase change by flipping the arms. I am thinking about shaving 5mm off of the arms to gain some wheelbase back and maybe put the shocks at a more perpendicular angle.
Have you tried mounting the shocks on the forward facing side of the shock tower?
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Old 11-08-2013, 01:14 AM
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Originally Posted by pwrslider View Post
Yeah I am trying to wrap my head around this too.
I brought it up because in the XM manual it says to flip the arms when more rear traction is required. It just seems to me like this would make the wheelbase awfully short.
From the pictures I have seen of Lee Martins car at the worlds, he was running the flipped arms. But it seems like his proto chassis was even longer than the XR.

So this is my theory on what Tamiya did for the Worlds.
1. Make +11mm XR
2. Make XM kit
3. Try to place more weight over rear axle by flipping arms and getting the axle centerline closer to the mid motor.
4. Flipping arms shortens the wheel base so make a new chassis that will keep the wheelbase +11mm even with the arms swapped.
Weight distribution. Lee's car at at the worlds would likely have similar wheel base to the XM in 'arms swept back' (normal) configuration, however the chassis has different gear box and rear shock tower configuration allowing shocks to be placed in vertical position. Go to Red Rc world coverage and they have photos and analysis of the car.
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Old 11-08-2013, 03:16 AM
  #4166  
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Originally Posted by Raman View Post
Pink wheels are cool.. but.. Tamiya needs to do a hex conversion update.. we shouldn't have to do a conversion..
Why hex is better than the original pin? I love the pink wheels too
However, I broke 3 rear wheel axles (last one in this weekend) in my TRF502X. I changed the 502x axle washers to the new #54488 Large Rear Axle Washer same as the TRF201XR that, until now, I have not broken any since I have it.

Best regards
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Old 11-08-2013, 06:31 AM
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Well for me the hex question is simple, I have lots and lots and lots of tires already mounted up on hexes. cheaper to convert than to buy new wheels and tires.
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Old 11-08-2013, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by AussieTopForce View Post
Have you tried mounting the shocks on the forward facing side of the shock tower?
The dremel work on the flipped arms worked great, i used 5mm in spacers on the front side of the hinge pin to get some wheelbase back. I also used a 3mm spacer on the lower shock mount as well. wheelbase is at 275mm.

some 501x arms with holes on both sides would be nice.

Last edited by fobtions; 11-08-2013 at 02:37 PM.
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Old 11-10-2013, 04:46 PM
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Ray, tried the new spring and damper oil combo. Was going good until the motor plate stripped and I lost a couple screws (2 screws had the threads from the motor plate in them). One thing I did notice was that in the rhythm section the rear was really bouncy. But that could have been from the motor plate being loose and not getting the speed I needed. I still need to finish the cut t-plate and get the weighted bulkhead. And now the motor plate.
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Old 11-10-2013, 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Scargoes View Post
Ray, tried the new spring and damper oil combo. Was going good until the motor plate stripped and I lost a couple screws (2 screws had the threads from the motor plate in them). One thing I did notice was that in the rhythm section the rear was really bouncy. But that could have been from the motor plate being loose and not getting the speed I needed. I still need to finish the cut t-plate and get the weighted bulkhead. And now the motor plate.
Sounds like your headed in the correct direction. For the motor plate screws make sure you add a small dab of loc-tite to the threads. As far as motor plates I've really never stuck with the lightweight motor plate. I went right to the big boy 54276. After running that one I haven't had any issues. The lightweight ones are great...but a few guys said the bent them.

PM me your mailing address....I'll send you my old big bore conversion stuff. It's just upper spring mounts and lower retainers but it beats having to buy them yourself. Just add some BB springs with the same shock setup......
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