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Tamiya TRF2WD thread

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Tamiya TRF2WD thread

Old 12-06-2012, 09:42 AM
  #3316  
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Originally Posted by perez62682 View Post

hey jimmy i had one more question, do you use the stock plastic spacer in the rear hubs?
Are you talking about the N13 (Between bearing and wheel washer) or N14 (Between the bearings) bushing?

N14 is a must! N13 can be moved to the inside of the axle to narrow the car 1mm or can be replaced with .5mm of shims.
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Old 12-06-2012, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Racecrafter View Post
The front hex conversion has been used for the past month with a rough estimate of 7-8 hours of track time.
So how are you running the rears? Are you just sticking a plastic hex on
the axle like most people have done to run the hex wheels on the back.
I like the standard pin axle instead of the hexes myself, there's more wheel
options with the "pin on the axle" setup, because then you can run Jconcepts wheels, and those are very good wheels.
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Old 12-06-2012, 01:03 PM
  #3318  
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Originally Posted by Racecrafter View Post
Are you talking about the N13 (Between bearing and wheel washer) or N14 (Between the bearings) bushing?

N14 is a must! N13 can be moved to the inside of the axle to narrow the car 1mm or can be replaced with .5mm of shims.
i am talking about the n14 spacer. i do run it but i feel like that one it causing the binding when i tighten the wheel nut down. i guess my question was do you guys run the stock plastic one or like a brass spacer.

do you look in the manual for the part number or have them memorized? hahahaha
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Old 12-06-2012, 03:54 PM
  #3319  
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Originally Posted by perez62682 View Post
i am talking about the n14 spacer. i do run it but i feel like that one it causing the binding when i tighten the wheel nut down. i guess my question was do you guys run the stock plastic one or like a brass spacer.

do you look in the manual for the part number or have them memorized? hahahaha
You must use the N14 spacer as without it there would be increased binding when the bearings are side loaded.

I have built nearing 50 of these kits not to mention how many tear downs and rebuilds I have done on my buggies over the past couple of years. So "Yes" I remember most of the part numbers.
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Old 12-08-2012, 04:07 AM
  #3320  
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How often do you rebuild your shocks, and ive seen people with balloons
over thier shocks to keep dirt out, I would think shock socks would be better.
My tamiya shocks have always remained smooth for many many runs.
At least twice as long as my associated shocks. My assocaited's need a
rebuild after 5-6 races. My tamiya's dont get sloppy until the 12th race.
Now since AE changed thier shock design last year I can see them lasting longer.
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Old 12-08-2012, 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by ???E-Racer View Post
How often do you rebuild your shocks, and ive seen people with balloons
over thier shocks to keep dirt out, I would think shock socks would be better.
My tamiya shocks have always remained smooth for many many runs.
At least twice as long as my associated shocks. My assocaited's need a
rebuild after 5-6 races. My tamiya's dont get sloppy until the 12th race.
Now since AE changed thier shock design last year I can see them lasting longer.
Well the Tamiya shocks are emulsion style shocks so they need a little air in them. Cycle the shock enough to mix the air and oil, then see if there is still an air bubble. If so, time for a rebuild. As for the balloons, typically 1/10 scale tracks do not have a bunch of loose dirt like 1/8 scale tracks. If your track is really dusty maybe put them on the rear shocks. Most 1/10 scale tracks have an air compressor. It is easier to just blow the car off between rounds. For your post about hex wheels. AE, Pro-line, AKA, Avid, DE Racing, and JC all make hex wheels.
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Old 12-09-2012, 08:27 AM
  #3322  
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I agree I like running an 8.5 in 2wd mod buggy. There's a few that are running 7.5's but they are never in the top 3. You can say they have too much motor.
I know it's better to start with a 13.5 before going to a faster motor.
We typically have alot of faster guys that run a 10.5 motor.
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Old 12-09-2012, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by ???E-Racer View Post
I agree I like running an 8.5 in 2wd mod buggy. There's a few that are running 7.5's but they are never in the top 3. You can say they have too much motor.
I know it's better to start with a 13.5 before going to a faster motor.
We typically have alot of faster guys that run a 10.5 motor.
There are a lot of people that run more motor than they can handle. They see that Cav and Tebo run a 7.5 and they think that is what they need to be competitive. On a small or low bite track even a 7.5 could be just too much for even a pro. Now if it just a club race odds are they won't switch out the motor and they will just deal with having a bit too much power as it is not hard for them to adapt. However if it is a big race they will motor down if it will let them drive the car at its limits more easily. I remember the 1/10 scale worlds in 2005 I think. The track was so slick they were running with only 5 nimh cells hooked up. They still had 6 cells for the weight, but they only had 5 of them hooked up.

To me a 7.5 is the perfect motor for medium to large tracks with medium to high bite. With advanced as the escs are these days it is so easy to dial it down a touch if it is too much.
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Old 12-18-2012, 03:09 AM
  #3324  
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this is probably a dumb question but is there a 201 and a 201 x?? i see people saying both.. and also i see speedtech sells one with upgrade kit ..what all comes with this kit?
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Old 12-18-2012, 08:18 AM
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201 and 201x are used interchangeably as far as naming convention goes, the car is the same. The upgrade kit includes the lightened motor plate and a cf battery strap that's just bling and the newer, more durable diff and idler gears.. You want the diff and idler gears, the rest isn't worth the price difference from just buying it from Tamiya direct.
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Old 12-18-2012, 10:05 AM
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Will AE pin type wheels and front wheels bolt direct ??
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Old 12-18-2012, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by MarkA View Post
201 and 201x are used interchangeably as far as naming convention goes, the car is the same. The upgrade kit includes the lightened motor plate and a cf battery strap that's just bling and the newer, more durable diff and idler gears.. You want the diff and idler gears, the rest isn't worth the price difference from just buying it from Tamiya direct.
Is there a part number for the carbon fibre battery strap? Is it sold separately or does it only come with the upgrade kit?
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Old 12-18-2012, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by NUZUM View Post
Will AE pin type wheels and front wheels bolt direct ??
You will need these front axles to use AE front wheels direct. The rears should fit as is but I've found actual Tamiya wheels in the $5/pair range and I've also found them to be a bit better quality than AE's ones anyway.

Originally Posted by Raman View Post
Is there a part number for the carbon fibre battery strap? Is it sold separately or does it only come with the upgrade kit?
I've only seen it with the upgrade kit.
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Old 12-18-2012, 09:03 PM
  #3329  
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How does this buggy perform on loose dusty bumpy tracks? All I have run is the AE B4.1.It seems to handle well in these conditions.In this part of the country we have nice tracks,but no blue groove tracks at all.They are all loose sandy tracks.I suppose what I am trying to say is,is this buggy better suited for euro tracks,like on grass or carpet,high bite tracks?Just looking at some pics of the buggy,it doesn't look like the rear shocks will lay down as much as the b4.1.

best regards jimmy

Last edited by tc3jp; 12-19-2012 at 09:47 AM.
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Old 12-19-2012, 05:54 AM
  #3330  
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Going to give the 201 a shot this weekend and was wondering what a solid setup is for clay very high bite running mod with a shorty pack.. see multiple setups on petitrc....
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