21LikesTamiya TRF2WD thread
12-31-2011, 10:58 AM
#2611
I'm sure Jimmy has everything TRF201 user needs, but its easier for me to order from HK.
But thanks for the help !
By the way, your body is the bulldog for the B4.1 ? No problem to fit on the 201 ? Because I tried this afternoon a stock B4 body and it does not fit on the rear (body narrower than the 201 lower deck)
But thanks for the help !
By the way, your body is the bulldog for the B4.1 ? No problem to fit on the 201 ? Because I tried this afternoon a stock B4 body and it does not fit on the rear (body narrower than the 201 lower deck)
12-31-2011, 12:33 PM
#2612
So, I asume this item would fit, 64mm long shaft and rear wheel axles for 501
Be aware though... on my TRF511 (and your TRF501X), there are two 5 x .5mm washers that slide over the axle before putting the new CV assembly through the rear hub. You probably knew that, but just a reminder. The TRF201 does not use these two washers.
01-01-2012, 02:15 AM
#2613
Thanks Aron for the warning 
mxracer, PM sent.
mxracer, PM sent.
01-01-2012, 04:35 PM
#2616
well im going to give the shorty lipos a try,going to try the losi bb shock spring set up as well,i need to get it setup for jbrl!!arron im going to try your set up with the 3b pistons and springs.Cant wait to run,now i just need to figure out what motor to run!
01-02-2012, 12:42 PM
#2619
where can get the part tree L 19114073.? i need a front bulkhead
01-02-2012, 09:26 PM
#2621
Tech Addict
iTrader: (10)
Greetings all and Raging Newyear!
Catching up on some forum reading.
Noticed that people are running non tamiya springs on tamiya shocks...Is it for the in between tunings and/or to keep the spring from rubbing on the shock cylinder? I never liked the way the tamiya springs rubbed on the cylinders of my 501XWE so if running other springs can help this I'll give them a try.
Also, does anyone know how I can contact Brad Krans? E-mail, Phone?
Cheers.
Catching up on some forum reading.
Noticed that people are running non tamiya springs on tamiya shocks...Is it for the in between tunings and/or to keep the spring from rubbing on the shock cylinder? I never liked the way the tamiya springs rubbed on the cylinders of my 501XWE so if running other springs can help this I'll give them a try.
Also, does anyone know how I can contact Brad Krans? E-mail, Phone?
Cheers.
01-03-2012, 02:11 AM
#2622
Greetings all and Raging Newyear!
Catching up on some forum reading.
Noticed that people are running non tamiya springs on tamiya shocks...Is it for the in between tunings and/or to keep the spring from rubbing on the shock cylinder? I never liked the way the tamiya springs rubbed on the cylinders of my 501XWE so if running other springs can help this I'll give them a try.
Also, does anyone know how I can contact Brad Krans? E-mail, Phone?
Cheers.
Catching up on some forum reading.
Noticed that people are running non tamiya springs on tamiya shocks...Is it for the in between tunings and/or to keep the spring from rubbing on the shock cylinder? I never liked the way the tamiya springs rubbed on the cylinders of my 501XWE so if running other springs can help this I'll give them a try.
Also, does anyone know how I can contact Brad Krans? E-mail, Phone?
Cheers.
www.tfr-rc.com
Sorry, I never come on here anymore
01-03-2012, 01:21 PM
#2624
I'm sure most of you read what Jimmy posted (Jake Thayer's setup). I wanted to explain a little more about the T-plate mod we are doing. Jake told me about this mod a few weeks ago, I tried it with awesome results and I've run it ever since. (Thanks Jake!) This mod allows more side to side flex of the T-plate, which will add some very consistent rear side bite. Plus I haven't heard of anyone breaking T-plates. I know the T-plate can be an issue because you have to purchase the entire J kit (51412) to get one.
If you remove the T-plate form your buggy you will notice 2 towers on each side. We are removing these two towers from the T-plate. After removing the towers you will need to add 2 nuts under the U-brace. Don't worry there are already slots for the nuts to fit into. I added a dab of shoe-goo to make sure the nuts don't fall out of the U-brace when removing the diff case. (Hate losing my nuts!) The nuts in the U-brace are needed to lock the trans case to the U-brace. Originally the screws went through the trans case, through the U-brace and threaded into the towers. So no instead of threading into the towers they thread into the 2 nuts in the U-brace. Reinstall everything and give it a try. I added pics to make it a little easier to understand.
Jimmy also posted that Jake is running the 501x (51279) rear arms with 3deg of antisquat and the HRC. The 501 arms are HUGE. There is more material in the arms...but they seem more flexible to me. (could be me but I like the way they feel on my buggy). When you add the 501 arms and 3mm antisquat and HRC you will need to do a little clearencing to make sure noting binds up. I used a sanding wheel on my drimmel to clear where the diff outdrive rubbed on the arm and where the U-brace would impact the arm. Want to make sure everything is free and doesn't bind, we want those amazing Tamiya shocks to work!
Give these mods a try and let us know what you think.
If you remove the T-plate form your buggy you will notice 2 towers on each side. We are removing these two towers from the T-plate. After removing the towers you will need to add 2 nuts under the U-brace. Don't worry there are already slots for the nuts to fit into. I added a dab of shoe-goo to make sure the nuts don't fall out of the U-brace when removing the diff case. (Hate losing my nuts!) The nuts in the U-brace are needed to lock the trans case to the U-brace. Originally the screws went through the trans case, through the U-brace and threaded into the towers. So no instead of threading into the towers they thread into the 2 nuts in the U-brace. Reinstall everything and give it a try. I added pics to make it a little easier to understand.
Jimmy also posted that Jake is running the 501x (51279) rear arms with 3deg of antisquat and the HRC. The 501 arms are HUGE. There is more material in the arms...but they seem more flexible to me. (could be me but I like the way they feel on my buggy). When you add the 501 arms and 3mm antisquat and HRC you will need to do a little clearencing to make sure noting binds up. I used a sanding wheel on my drimmel to clear where the diff outdrive rubbed on the arm and where the U-brace would impact the arm. Want to make sure everything is free and doesn't bind, we want those amazing Tamiya shocks to work!
Give these mods a try and let us know what you think.