OFNA Hyper8 Electric Conversion
 

Hi Everyone.

I am planning a Conversion for a Hyper8 that is on it's way and have been searching here for info about this older buggy for a couple of days now and have come up lacking.

Does anyone have pics of some conversions either homemade or bought. I see that RC-monster has a few but I would like to see them installed on the car.

I am also looking for some suggestions:spidey: from personal experience on motors, ESC's and gearing for this particular buggy.

RC Racing is not new to me but 1/8 scale is. So any help would be great.


The 3 main systems I am looking at are the Castle Creations MMM, Tekin RX8 and the XeRun 150A

Also with talking to the local racers I am getting a wide variety of motor choices and battery suggestions and I'd like to hear from you.

I have heard from 1400k/V to 2200k/V motors and 3-6 cells Lipo's and 4000-8000 mAh

Thanks in advance.

P.S. the only thing I know I will be going with is the Hyper 8 as a base and I think I'll turf the mechanical brakes as I would like to build a lightweight buggy


Thanks again


Jason

Rcm has a conversion kit for hyper8 n doing a mech brake system will not make the buggy lighter in fact heavier than motor brake.

Sorry I was meaning to Get rid of the Mechanical Brakes (Ie no second Servo, Brake pads and linkages) to bring the weight down. not add it.

Sorry for the confusion

anybody? I'm looking for some advice before I go an buy some of the stuff. IE 4S or 6S 1400kv, 1700kv, 1900kv,2250 and so on.

TTT

I have a converted Hyper 8(no pics though).

I run the RCmonster stuff. I have the Castle system with the 2200kv motor, waiting for funds to get the 1850kv motor. I use 4s battery.

My son has a Hyper8 conversion.

Mamba Monster + Fiego 1675kv - going to Castle 1800KV this year.

RCMonster motor mount and Losi battery tray

I have a spare roller Ofna 9.5 that I may switch him to this year (I run that model myself).

You want the motor to be spinning between 28k and 35k rpm. The smaller tracks will be fine at the lower rpms. For large tracks, you might want a bit more rpm for top end power. But with these large motors, you should have plenty of power even at the lower rpm range.
So just take the "kv" value of the motor and multiply by the voltage.

1400kV * 22.2V (6s) = 31krpm
2000kV * 14.8V (4s) = 29.6krpm
etc.

The lower kV, higher voltage setups have longer runtimes as they consume less current.

As for the brushless systems, all have their share of failures. It seems 1/8 ESCs aren't mature enough in their designs yet to have comparably low failure rates as 1/10 ESCs. Choose the one you like and can afford. I personally think XeRun systems offer the best performance per dollar. They are on par, IMO, performance and feature-wise, but what they lack is domestic customer support. but you can pick up a XeRun complete system for half the cost of the other systems.

I am running the LRP SPX8 with the Tekin 1900 on 4s and am very happy. It is plenty fast and will run around 17 minutes on a 5000mah batt.

I'm running a converted MP777WC with the Orion 2050kv motor and Orion esc on 2 5400 Peak 2s1p packs...basically 4 cells...and love it! I've also run the mmm 2200 combo in it with great results. Between the two I would say the Orion system is a little smoother, but out of all the 1/8 esc's out there now, from my experience the castle esc is the most reliable. Good luck with your conversion!

That's some great Idea's. Now I was wondering if the added efficency of 6s batteries and lower kV motors is worth the extra weight of the 6s (790g) vs the 4s (550g)

as I have been reading some threads associated with brushless motors I have been taken back to my first year's College electronics instructor.

" There is no such thing as Kelvin Volts" he was a engineer and hated when we capitalized the k in kilo

So thanks JSR for doing it right! :nod:

Remember Jason when you go from 4S to 6S you're current consumption drops by ~30% so if you needed a 5000mAh battery at 4S you will only need about 3300mAh at 6S to maintain the same runtime. Power = Volts x Amps, so with power as a constant, your current requirement will go down as your volts go up.

Also the K in Kv is for "constant" (it's a German thing) not kilo, and should be shown as capital K subscript v. Kv is your voltage constant ie how many rpms per volt.:tire::tire:

Really. well thanks for the info. lol and the correction

How durable are these ?
I have a RC8B on the way but was offered a Hobao St 1/8 Truggy roller for about $200 already converted minus electronics...

Are spare parts commonly available ...worth a project or should I keep my $200 for the RC8B?

Sorry if jumping thread ...

i know this is the revival of an old thread...

but i have got so p!ssed with nitro engines, i have bought an brushless conversion. It is only a basher and not racing at all.

HW 150A Ezrun
2200kV motor
Turnigy 4S 5000mAh lipo's x 2
TC Models conversion kit

all up i only spent $200.. with second hand esc and motor..

Any tips or tricks for this conversion.. all parts should be here in a week or two.

I want to remove the disc brakes etc... is it as simple as pulling out the caliper and the disc and leave the drive shafts in etc.

Any help appreciated