GSMnow

Assuming you have it running in sensored mode, it does sound like either a sensor, sensor cable, or winding problem on the motor. It could also be a weak batery or bad connection from the battery to the ESC. Starting requires very high current and can cause all kinds of issues if you don't hold a solid voltage as it tries to start. Double check all your connectors, and try a battery you know can push a high current motor without voltage sag. Do you have a good volt/ohm meter? Accurately measuring the windings of a high current brushless motor is a pain, but it can be done. Depending on the failure, you don't need accuracy though. There was a guy at our local track that had an issue very similar to yours. It turned out he had tried to open his 17.5 motor and broke one of the winding wires off of the board that brought the stator leads out to the tabs. Since spec motors are all "Y" wound, the one tab did measure open, the other two were a very low resistance to each other, so it was very obvious. We opened the can and were able to resolder it. If it is a delta wind motor, and only one of the leads snapped, all 3 combinations would read well under 1 ohm, so it is tough to know if one of them broke/failed without a low ohm test, but certainly check them with a normal meter and see what you get. A-B, B-C, and C-A should all measure about the same as touching the leads together. If it has a replaceable sensor lead, certainly try another one. You can also measure the voltage at the ESC end of the A-B-C sensors, and just push the motor slowly. They should all switch cleanly between under a volt and over 3 volts. Each one will show high for one half the revolution, and low for the other half. The switch points are all shifted by 120 degrees from each other, but as long as you see all three switching, odds are the switch points are right. More likely is you have the A-B-C current leads switched around, but that should kill reverse also, unless the ESC uses sensors only for forward, and goes sensorless in reverse, that is a posibility, so certainly check the lead order at both the ESC and motor. Just for fun, put it in sensorless mode, and take off the sensor cable, and see how that runs. Sensorless will NOT run well when stalled, especially a low KV spec motor. But once rolling it should take off and run fine. My Mamba Max is a great sensorless ESC, and it bucks bad when fully stalled, it is the nature of the beast. Once it is rolling, even slowly, it pulls hard without any hesitation of popping noises like your banging pinion gear. Let us know what you find and we can try and work you through this situation.

pirape

Ok but 1st my version is 198.. and If I remember right I had a colum for turbo.. and i dont see it anymore (maybe my mind is playing tricks on me)
but seems like I have less colums... Anyways how do I get the verison 203... I run a software update and 198 is the best it can find...

on the capacitor side I see 3 leds cycling and while turned on I see a bright led staying on (NW) for 5 seconds then jumping to (DB) for .5 sec then going back to (NW) for 5 sec... Hope this is normal

Randy_Pike

iTrader: (6)

The latest software can be found here:

www.teamtekin.com/hotwire.html

pirape

I forgot to mention that rev power is huges!! it used to be at 50 and 50 was just enough to make it go backwards now at 20.. and man I could go through a wall with that speed and power ( rev)

dynodan22

iTrader: (9)

Does it matter on the 3 leads that come from the motor
winds to the sensor board the orientation that is used?
If the wind is rotated does it matter ?

Thanks
Dan

Tim Garland

iTrader: (7)

I'm having the same problem. Changed motor, sensor lead, receiver, and battery, also changed timing settings and nothing helps. It will run fine for a short time and then start acting up, most of the time after hard breaking or landing after a jump. When it happens all the timing advance is lost.

Jonathan Paulk

iTrader: (36)

I am also having the same problem. Mine was cogging, thought it might be the motor and changed it, then the speedo totally reset it's self when I tried to turn it on. Took about three people about three times each to get the esc to reset (when you set the neurtral, fwd, and brake) It also seems the esc lost all it's programming. Went from a 17.5 to a 13.5 and it lost power, it would barely pizza the wheels, the 17.5 would nearly sling them off. And it still cogs after replacing the sensor wire Another racer mentioned his did the same thing and he replaced the power cap that solders on the batt terminals and it solved the problem. I have to order one, so I have yet to see if that fixes it.

rcguy76559

iTrader: (22)

sometime cogging is from to tight of gear mesh. Could be bad solder job to. Too much timing on motor it self. Check the wires going from the rx to esc they could be shorting it out thats what mine was.

BrushlessKyle

iTrader: (17)

This happened to me with too much timing and an ESC that was ready to go.

Tim Garland

iTrader: (7)

On mine the gear mesh is perfect, checked and rechecked all wiring for shorts, have had a bad transponder which would kill all power to the receiver not just the controller. Novak 17.5 set at - mark, 10.5 ss, and Losi 17.5 no endbell timing on a SC10 with 81/23 gearing, same problem. Disconnected the transponder and servo. My question is has anyone had to send one back for this problem and confirmed they had a bad controller. I need one for the JC race in 2 weeks and not sure if I should order another for a back up or go with another brand. I'm sure that Tekin warranty service is great I just don't like using those services. I only have 4 race days on mine so far and the motor has never got over 135.

Zerodefect

-replace sensor cable, allways keep a spare if you race
-check sensor cable pins
-remove sensor board from motor, check sensors, clean motor
-reset timing to something conservative on motor. 5-10?
-is that a Tekin or Trinity motor?
-resolder motor wires
-try another Tekin or Trinity motor
- make sure your ESC is programmed right

Zerodefect

deja-vu?

kufman

iTrader: (6)

oops, didn't read all posts before i posted.