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Old 04-29-2004, 05:52 PM   #91
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I would not get one personally..

the savage HPI is a durable, powerful, and good handling truck (with bowties)..

but, the other HPI trucks are not my cup of tea
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Old 04-29-2004, 06:18 PM   #92
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dylan- (correct me if I'm wrong anyone) trying to compare electric and nitro is like trying to compare apples to oranges....

with the fastest setup, the T4 could probably be at the least, as fast as the GT... I'm not sure of the top speed of the GT though... 40's?

a well tuned gas truck will smoke MOST of the electrics...

then again i could be wrong, I'm basing this on my experiance...


I agree with warpig, I'd only buy a Savage from HPI.... or a Pro4 if i was into onroad
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Old 04-29-2004, 06:28 PM   #93
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Within the next few years electric will routinely running faster than nitro and having longer run times... The technology is getting cery near... LiPo's and Brushless...

Both Nitro and electric have their good and bad points, one is not BETTER than the other...

A good Nitro racing motor will set you back more money than most cars cost these days... If you want to be competitive with the big boys in nitro it's going to cost you a hell of a lot more money than electric... I've got a JP Noverossi in my NTC3 and a Sirio 27 Race in my MGT, does the average person have the funds to keep up with either of those??? A good ESC/Mod Motor combo plus enough batteries to run a weekend will run you less than either of those engines... Even if you run Nitro I hope you have a good charger to keep your reciever packs going... I guess charging mine of a CE Turbo 35GFX is overkill... Hahaha....
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Old 04-29-2004, 06:35 PM   #94
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"If you want to be competitive with the big boys in nitro it's going to cost you a hell of a lot more money than electric... "

not true at all.. for example.. a friend bought a xxxnt put a HPI nitrostar I think it's called in it.. $130.. so now he has $470 into his truck.. he already had a starter box.. but let's add that too $80.. so now $550.. he uses the same radio in all his cars that he got with the xxxnt.. he loves it.. it works for him.. and he has been putting the whoop on the big boys.. he stated he has only put around $45 into the truck in 2 years for parts.. and upgrades.. so, two years of competitive racing for $595 plus the cost of fuel of course.. no battery can last that long to be competitive.. so, the cost is very reasonable..

I have many examples of things like that.. my experience is the same.. I have so much money in my electric.. it makes me sick to see that little thing and think of how much is in it.. but it sure as heck is fun to drive

with nitro.. just keep adding fuel.. I ran mine for 2 hrs straight one day.. not possible with electric
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Old 04-29-2004, 06:45 PM   #95
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Quote:
Originally posted by warpig
.. I ran mine for 2 hrs straight one day..
Well, now I've got a question

About how long can you run a nitro before things start to get too hot, dirty, ect.? Can you run them 2 hours straight on a regular basis and be fine?
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Old 04-29-2004, 06:55 PM   #96
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with a good filter assembly.. yes.. I run a two stage.. an oiled foam filter surrounded by another exterior filter.. with an inferior filter.. I don't suggest it
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Old 04-29-2004, 07:00 PM   #97
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if you have a ton of batts you can run for hours, i personally have 8 batts and I COULD run for hours straight, but my motor would be too hot, it already runs a little warm....
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Old 04-29-2004, 07:03 PM   #98
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Oh, and I'd say nitro's are cheaper than electrics when buying everything:

RC10T4 RTR
3 Orion 6 cell 3000mah packs
Duratrax Piranha charger
2 packs of AA batteries

Total: $384.93

RC10GT Plus RTR
2 O.S. glow plugs
After run engine oil
3 packs of AA batteries
4 quarts of Duratrax Red Aler 10% fuel (can anyone recommend a good fuel)

Total: $310.19

That leaves me with money to spare to upgrade the radio, servo, repairs, ect.

(prices are from tower hobbies)
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Old 04-29-2004, 07:32 PM   #99
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Get odonnell 20%, and use the extra money to get a receiver pack and wall charger.
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Old 04-29-2004, 07:45 PM   #100
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Nobody answered my question

If all i want to do is jump stuff, yes i know there is a risk in breaking parts, what trucks/buggies do you guys reccomend? the jumps are all over 2+ ft that i have, and i want it to go kind of fast, and have a longer run time, so i WAS leaning towards nitro, but i know electric would be cheaper in the short run if i don't want to race..

Cars i was looking at would be the mbx-5 or the rc10gt or maybe even an mp-7.5..

thoughts, and your favorite cars for strictly jumping?


Skoob, you've already been asked to clean it up. Please watch your language

Last edited by Aaron Waldron; 04-30-2004 at 07:48 AM.
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Old 04-29-2004, 11:53 PM   #101
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The lighter the vehicle the less you'll break... If you want to just jump things, get a stadium truck...
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Old 04-30-2004, 12:21 AM   #102
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as far as jumping the 1/8 scales are far superior to the gas trucks.. and more durable for such activities.. they are engineered well...

the theory lighter is stronger is only proportional to the mass and density of the parts....
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Old 04-30-2004, 12:23 AM   #103
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what's funny.. is what I just posted makes absolutely no sense at all.. I'm tired..
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Old 04-30-2004, 12:46 AM   #104
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so should i go with the rc10gt like i was thinking?

is that durable enough just stock?

eventually i'd probably upgrade to aluminum or somethni stronger for most of the parts
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Old 04-30-2004, 07:47 AM   #105
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All of today's high-level gas trucks are durable in their own way.

But they will never be able to take the abuse a buggy can. If you plan on jumping big BMX jumps or anything else, you will need a buggy.
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