valleyraceway

iTrader: (8)

Briguy i usred a old allen driver one time cut it to lenghth and worked good to get me buy

Dog Runner

iTrader: (23)

It works just fine. You will need a bunch of shims. Mine needed about .5mm more on one side than the other to make sure the gears meshed correctly.

dirtydan

iTrader: (47)

what oil would you recommend for the gear diff?

sparkwraps

iTrader: (34)

Start with something close to 79/27 and watch temps and how car is doing on the track.

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

Rewire from RM4 to RM3 done.. booya.

kwilke

iTrader: (172)

???

tomdav

iTrader: (44)

Rear motor 4 gear to rear motor 3 gear.

kwilke

iTrader: (172)

I was asking why switch from 4 gear to 3 gear

Jonny5

iTrader: (19)

The circlips are easily bought from Fastenal or McMaster Carr in bulk. We got a bag of 100 for around $12 when a friend broke his circlip trying to remove it without snapring pliers. Snapring pliers are an absolute MUST for working on the diff.

Diff Balls

iTrader: (39)

I need some help.......

I am working on the shocks and the o-ring that goes at the top of the shock and than you put on the cap......When tightening down the cap, it squishes the o-ring out and it will actually come out enough where it is completely exposed (not sealing). If I don't tighten it enough for this to happen, it spins very easily.

No I am not over-tightening, I am doing it by hand and not using any force. The o-rings went on very easily and were hardly tight on the threads. Yes it is pushed all the way down on the threads also.

I have built hundreds of shocks over the years and have never had this problem before. My only idea of why its happening is because the top, inside of the cap is angled in a way that it pushes the o-ring outwards as it compresses.

Thanks

tomdav

iTrader: (44)

?????





Trying a new setup I'm guessing. More on power steering?

Huleboer

First real outing with my buggy today, and apart from my low gearing (13.5t 25/87) it ended up running rather well.

I had alot more wrenching time than track time due to my circlip coming loose all the time. I ended up cleaning it all. Expand ther circlip before installing it and then applied some fast curing clue (like tire glue but not too thin a liquid) with the tip of a small flat head screwdriver. All the way around the circlip and then give it a squeese to allow the glue to get behind it.

That was after the third time i took it apart today. Now it seems to stay put.

Just be very careful not get any glue on the thrust drive.

Peff

Hi guys,

I'm a newb to 1/10th. I'm thinking of getting the dex210. I've read a few threads and most of them say that this is the most tunable buggy out there. My fear though, is it to tunable for a newb. Can too many changes cause confusion for a newb?

I dont want to waste money and would rather buy right the first time. As iam a newb, just how much torture can this baby handle?

Cheers

sparkwraps

iTrader: (34)

I would not recommend this buggy for you. It is essentially buying every tuning part for a car, but it all comes with it. While this is a huge bonus for those that can tune, it would hurt you right now. You could be so far out of tune because of one small thing and you wouldn't know how to fix it.

Just my own thoughts

onekiwi

iTrader: (4)

Id say get it as all the tuning parts are included in the stock kit and with a helpfull bunch that are on here Im sure you can get help you may n.eed

Its a great car out of the box and the stock setup is fine.

But I think a to make your choice have a look around at the local tracks/clubd to what others are running, think about getting a similar car to them as there you will have local knowledge and on track days others will have parts etc to help out if needed.