Konich

iTrader: (9)

Yes if you take the hex off use the cone and spacer off the 410 and you can use both AE or Losi wheels on the rear just like the 410

tom235

thanks thats awesome to know now i can use the 10 sets of b4 tire/wheels i have lieing around

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

Well, I made about yen laps before I flipped upside down and broke the rear shock tower,this is not cool drove 45min to test and didnt drive 5 minutes........ The car drove very well though. I hope durango does something about this as it is definately a defect in either design or matl.

1armed1

iTrader: (79)

I broke 2 rear towers yesterday.
The first was caused by casing a jump and flipping over landing hard on the tower. As hard as I hit many cars would have broke.
The second was on a flat landing, all 4 tires hit at the same time.

I also broke an inner rear camber mount.
I was in a high speed corner, traction rolled and SNAP!

I will be looking into an alternate method/mounting point for the inner rear link and I think I have a idea for a brace for the rear tower.
Both towers that I broke and every broken one I have seen on here and at the track has broke in the same spot.

I think there is a design flaw that was not realized during team testing but now needs to be resolved.

The car is absolutely amazing but has a few issues that need to be fixed.

Dayton

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

well i am designing my own as we speak! i will try 6mm delrin at first to see how it holds up. i dont think Carbon will be a good choice because you will break the gearbox if it is too stiff especially since we are seeing camber mounts breaking. to be honest i think good ole G10 may be the best material to use but its ugly! at this point i dont care about looks. once you start breaking your car its harder to push because you dont want to break.....UUUUUGH

2wdMod

iTrader: (42)

Dayton, i think i will be making some HD R towers right off the bat for mine

brandundecided

iTrader: (9)

I was referring to the hexes proline and jconcepts released or possibly hexes from a 22

dirtydan

iTrader: (47)

i have a question about the c clips. i installed it with the beveled face towards the thrust washer and after maby 10 laps the diff started slipping like if the c clip has come lose. i have yet to disassemble the diff, but my question is are there any other alternatives to using the c clip in the diffs? this is the third time i take the diff apart today because of this issue. the first 2 times it was due to have the flat side facing the thrust washer, but now with it facing the correct way it still poped off. i also see that durango has a part number for the gear diff, but are they available already?

dan

Mopar

Had 1st night with the car last night and the car did great. Made 1 major change to pistons and oil after 2nd practice. Then minor changes the rest of the outting. Was 3rd qual after 1st round and 2nd qual after 2nd round. The car was better in the main but the driver failled the equipment. This thing was 2 laps better than my other UK car. My S car was never consistant and was always loose. Was running RM4 for this outting but will try RM3 for next time mainly from what Patrick said about the change.

hopsing

iTrader: (13)

You also have to make sure that the small washer goes into the outdrive first, then the thrust bearing, and then the larger diameter washer last. Also, if you reused the snap ring, you need to spread it out some so that it is slightly larger....if you have taken it in and out a couple times it wont spring back to the original diameter and will never work like its supposed to, it will always pop out with pressure applied escpecially if the small thrust washer is pushing against it intstead of the larger one.
The best thing to do is to install a new one, but if thats not possible, just slighlty open up the ring some. You also need to make sure that you dont over compress the spring when installing it or it wont spread back open into the groove tightly either. One thing I do is after its installed n the groove, take a small flathead screwdriver and twist it in the open end of the snap ring to make sure its spread out into the groove.

And no, there is no other method of holding the thrust in....the system works great, there was just a failure in the instructions on how to install it correctly to avoid these problems.

hopsing

iTrader: (13)

My car is really good at SDRC Ed And I'm running RM3 as well.

Randy_Pike

iTrader: (6)

Flipping over backwards and snapping a shock tower is not a defect. You could say you would like the tower to be stronger but the cars is not meant to be upside down travelling forward. A B4 will often snap the front tower doing this exact "flop."

IF you snapped a tower casing the jump make sure when you cycle your suspension that the shocks aren't bottoming out before the chassis is.

I raced with 3 other 210's this weekend all driven by good drivers and none of us broke anything. Plenty of cars broke this weekend on the track.

I can say that you should never allow your diff to slip. One driver allowed his to slip during practice and it damaged the balls beyond use. IF it barks, pull it over and fix it.

So far what I've found is that this car is very sensitive to weight placement and rear shock setups. Don't go too drastic when making changes as each little change can be felt.

1armed1

iTrader: (79)

Agreed, but....

When you flat land and a tower snaps there is an issue.
I have plenty up travel, you can push the chassis to the table and still pick the rear wheel up off the table 4-5mm.

The first tower I broke would have broke on any other car, it was a brutal hit as stated in my previous post, but the second was on a flat landing and that should never happen with enough up travel.


I had 2 race days and around 30 practice packs through my car before braking any parts.

The car is very good,
I did a lot of testing with a shorty pack after the mains last night and I'm liking the results.

Dayton

hopsing

iTrader: (13)

Here's what I think MIGHT be happening....not sure that it applies to you but I know in the three full race days I have on my car I've broke two rear towers....both times I had or was involved in a pretty good crash that had me ending up on lid pretty hard beforehand...no harm no foul BUT, what happened a few laps later were hard flant lands that ended up with broken towers I think whats happening is that the upper crossbrace is breaking right in the middle when the car lands on its "lid" hard....that then leaves no real supoprt for the remaining tower "ears" and ends up in catastrophic failure with an overley hard landing.

The reason I believe this may be the issue, at least in my case, is that I ran a full race day without breaking a tower.....and I was casing a 20ft quad HARD several times over the course of the day...and I mean HARD. I cringed everytime I came up short because I only had one spare. And that day, I never once ended up on my lid (very rare actually )

Just my observation....

murky123

can someone explane to me what the word "casing" means in the phrase : casing a jump ?

Inglish is not my native language