80LikesDurango DEX210 Thread
11-14-2011, 06:59 PM
#1893
Hey guys, I can already tell the ball cups are going to be a problem. I have everything built and I go to adjust the camber on the car and I put my wrench on it and turn the turnbuckle and it just pulls the links right off the ball studs! I know it has been talked about on here, but what is everybody running as far as the balls and the plastic links go?
This is what you want:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Ball-Joint-Set
11-14-2011, 07:01 PM
#1894
About the circlip- it's not that either side is flatter, rather one side's edges are sharper, or more square whereas the other side is more rounded as a result of them being stamped.
I always break mine in out of the car with a drill. Both ways work, I just prefer this way over doing it in the car.
I always break mine in out of the car with a drill. Both ways work, I just prefer this way over doing it in the car.
11-14-2011, 07:05 PM
#1895
Since we're on the subject.....
So the Durango Ballstuds are bigger and beefier than your typical B4 ones? I havn't seen them in person.
Now what's the actual weak point.....the ballcups? crappy plastic? they're breaking? bending? popping off easily? I missed this one.
So the Durango Ballstuds are bigger and beefier than your typical B4 ones? I havn't seen them in person.
Now what's the actual weak point.....the ballcups? crappy plastic? they're breaking? bending? popping off easily? I missed this one.
11-14-2011, 07:08 PM
#1896
Since we're on the subject.....
So the Durango Ballstuds are bigger and beefier than your typical B4 ones? I havn't seen them in person.
Now what's the actual weak point.....the ballcups? crappy plastic? they're breaking? bending? popping off easily? I missed this one.
So the Durango Ballstuds are bigger and beefier than your typical B4 ones? I havn't seen them in person.
Now what's the actual weak point.....the ballcups? crappy plastic? they're breaking? bending? popping off easily? I missed this one.
I wouldn't say the Durango ballstuds are more or less durable than standard studs. They're a bit thicker but are hollowed out to allow a hex driver to install them so it's a draw IMO.
11-14-2011, 07:10 PM
#1897
It's as simple as running the original durango ballcups. That way you can continue to run the stronger durango ballSTUDS that come on the car. The last thing you want is to put a weaker ball stud into the gearcase in the rear of the car, and have it break off.
This is what you want:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Ball-Joint-Set
This is what you want:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Ball-Joint-Set
11-14-2011, 07:17 PM
#1898
It's as simple as running the original durango ballcups. That way you can continue to run the stronger durango ballSTUDS that come on the car. The last thing you want is to put a weaker ball stud into the gearcase in the rear of the car, and have it break off.
This is what you want:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Ball-Joint-Set
This is what you want:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Ball-Joint-Set
I'm with you on preferably keeping the Durango studs, but I feel like I'm missing something here.
11-14-2011, 07:17 PM
#1899
What is everyone running for batteries? I switched to a substantially lighter battery and it turned into a completely different car. . My corner speed went up drastically. I had trouble making a quad section that alot of the other buggies were making, now even with a low C battery it makes it fairly easy.
11-14-2011, 07:19 PM
#1900
Tech Regular
iTrader: (29)
What is everyone running for batteries? I switched to a substantially lighter battery and it turned into a completely different car. . My corner speed went up drastically. I had trouble making a quad section that alot of the other buggies were making, now even with a low C battery it makes it fairly easy.
11-14-2011, 07:27 PM
#1901
I'm a little confused by this post. So it's been discussed that there is a problem with ballcups, and you're saying to keep the stock ballstuds because they're stronger, but the solution is just buy more Durango ballcups?
I'm with you on preferably keeping the Durango studs, but I feel like I'm missing something here.
I'm with you on preferably keeping the Durango studs, but I feel like I'm missing something here.
I had trouble with those popping off too. It was mostly just the ones on the steering. It seemed to be mostly caused by the flex of the ackerman plate. I made one from carbon fiber and it seemed to fixed it.
11-14-2011, 07:36 PM
#1902
I've been running the Protek Shorty since I received the car. I add one ounce near the servo since I was previously running a mid sized servo. I'm running one of the new KO RSX servos and have since removed 1/2 an ounce.
11-14-2011, 07:38 PM
#1903
Circlip time! Ok, so I decided to bust out my macro lens and take a nice macro closeup of both sides of the circlip so that everybody will understand exactly what we are talking about when we say the "flat" or "sharp" side, and the "round" or "beveled" side. Side by side, it should be a bit more obvious here. Take note of the arrows, and you can see where/how it is particularly easy to spot the difference. The flat side is literally flat, like it was sanded down, and the round side looks beveled. The flat side should be facing the inside of the diff, and the beveled side should be facing the thrust assembly.
11-14-2011, 07:40 PM
#1904
Yep.. they are different. And as long as you are running mid wheel base, or short wheel base, you can run the straight (non-bent) ball cups in the back of the car without issue.. they don't rub the gear cover. (CLOSE... but no contact. They will hit if you run long wheel base, I would bet) (This is for RM, btw... im not sure about MM)
11-14-2011, 07:47 PM
#1905
I switched from the same packs I run in my desc to a stick pack that weighed 110g lighter.
I have been looking at new batteries alot since then.
I have been looking at new batteries alot since then.