Durango DEX210 Thread
Fred,
At the risk of being too basic, is the slipper disc nearest the motor plate in all the way? It should be near flush with the motor plate. I find it often hangs 3mm from the plate and it looks good but you can’t get the slipper discs snug.
At the risk of being too basic, is the slipper disc nearest the motor plate in all the way? It should be near flush with the motor plate. I find it often hangs 3mm from the plate and it looks good but you can’t get the slipper discs snug.
The problem is that the 2 plates physically hit each other before squeezing on the spur and I can't figure out why.
I decided to assemble the top shaft/slipper assembly out of the case to see what was going on. I couldn't get it to tighten. A micrometer verified that the slipper plates weren't touching after all. I assembled another one using an Exotek flight top shaft and it tightens down just fine. Looking at both assemblies next to each other, I can't see why the stock assembly doesn't tighten down. It's a mystery.
Doing the conversion on the Intech ER-12 (durango clone) but the one piece topshaft from it doesn't fit and the gear diff is only 52t where as the PR is 55t. I can't find a tooth count on the TD diff, any ideas?
I bought the laydown to do the conversion but have yet to get it to work. The top set of shock tower mounting holes don't line up. I also have top shaft issues to resolve. The camber link mounts are also much lower. It is most certainly not a direct fit. I've got the standard gearbox back in right now.
Similar experience here. I needed to shave some material off the gearbox in a few places to get it to fit even after massaging the hinge pin mounts.
The holes for the tower and chassis only line up for me if I build the gearbox with a 0.75mm spacer between each half of the gearbox. One spacer per screw hole.
The idler and topshaft do fit and mesh fine but the one piece topshaft the intech uses won't rotate once the case is closed. The mesh on the diff is close but out enough that there would be no teeth left after a run.
I managed to count the teeth on a dex210 ball diff today, 52t. Same as the intech but too small 😣
The holes for the tower and chassis only line up for me if I build the gearbox with a 0.75mm spacer between each half of the gearbox. One spacer per screw hole.
The idler and topshaft do fit and mesh fine but the one piece topshaft the intech uses won't rotate once the case is closed. The mesh on the diff is close but out enough that there would be no teeth left after a run.
I managed to count the teeth on a dex210 ball diff today, 52t. Same as the intech but too small 😣
I've got the Durango gears and internals installed and they fit fine. My problem is getting a nut on the top shaft. I need to make a spacer. I'm going to make a new shock tower too. I didn't need to shave material off of the case anywhere but I also haven't spaced the case halves apart. I think I'll get it to work but it's a pain.
I spent a couple of hours last night working on the laydown and I did finally figure out the issues to make it work. I have all Durango gears in mine. Internally, the gearcase is narrower than the Durango case. On the diff, remove all of the shims on the outdrives. I had 3 of them in the stock case. On my stock case, I had a spacer washer on each side of the idler gear. Remove both of those if you are using them. Set them aside, you'll need them later. In fact, you'll need a 3rd one too. The top shaft was a bit tricky. I finally settled on using the Exotek Flite top shaft. Since the PR Racing laydown case doesn't use the add on spacer behind the motor plate like the Durango case does, there are some differences internally that required some figuring out. At first it appears that you just use a bearing in each half of the case and install the top shaft. Unfortunately, when you try to tighten down the slipper or direct drive, depending on which you use, everything locks up. It turns out this pulls the edge of the top shaft gear right into the side of the case. Those 3 spacers, 2 of which were removed from the idler gear, are used on the top shaft on the long side of the shaft. Now when it's all tightened down, everything stays in alignment and doesn't bind. If you want to use the Exotek direct drive instead of the slipper, you'll need to replace their long through shaft screw with one that is a few mm longer. You'll also need to use a small spacer that clears the side of the gearcase so when you tighten the nut down, it doesn't go below case level where you can't hold it anymore. I retained the slipper assembly and that was not an issue at all. Sadly, I didn't take any pictures but it all works and spins freely. Next up is to make a new rear tower or find a PR Racing rear tower from somewhere. Then it'll all be ready to install in the car.
Body
Does a B5m body fit this car?
Tech Elite
iTrader: (39)
It definitely would not fit. Their shapes are just too different. For starters the side pods on the 210 are bigger than the B5 ones. Most buggies have a wider front (in the servo area) and a narrower rear (side pods).
As the other guys said the TBG body are an option . Here is a link: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F11 2848348200
As the other guys said the TBG body are an option . Here is a link: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F11 2848348200