darkdays

Hi guys,

I am running a MM setup with the -2mm RR hanger. Based on what I read, with a MM setup you should not run antisquat. I am also running an aluminium RF with the number 2 inserts facing down as that's the closest it gets to 0 antisquat but yet I am still not getting enough rear bite when I apply more throttle.

My question is, how do I get 0 antisquat? Are there parts I can get? If so, can I have the product number?

I am the only one running dex so this forum is the only one I can turn to.
Just for info, I am running a 4gear MM with shocks mounted in the rear. I am also running 3 stock pistons all around with 32.5 oil in the rear and a 35 upfront. Springs are stock and running a gear diff with a 3000 diff oil.

Hope that helps.

micholix

Have you tried a standard RR hanger, instead of the -2 one?
Actually, i dont know the new RF hanger, with the inserts, is there any chart anywere, to see what insert gives you what anti squat angle?
MM4 should give you planty of rear traction, because the weight transfere comming how the motor is turning!?

May you could explane the problem a little bit more?
Is it only on exeleration at the strait?

Pistol123

Not expert, but I am running mm4 and tried zero anti squat - this turned it into a drift car, which was ok as on a tight indoor track.

I think as stated above with mm4 you get the weight transfer rearward when accelerating from the motor and without anti squat it adds in too much camber, less tire grip and drift - thats my theory anyway.

I think Fed and others are running zero anti squat on mm3 in which the motor transfers weight forward when it winds up.

darkdays

Allright, so I guess I got my basics wrong. The problem I am having now is that whenever I throttle gradually,maybe up to the 80% mark, my rear tend to slide out and I have to compensate. Especially in exiting corners. It's acting more like a RM.

So with what was stated above, I am guessing I should add more antisquat. From the RF chart with the number 2 inserts facing down, I am only achieving a value of 2.0. Whereas in fact I should use the number 2 inserts facing up to achieve a value of 4.0 right?

emerilnut

iTrader: (2)

You mean something like this?

http://durangofansite.com/main.php?v...0&page=gearing

JRSlash

iTrader: (7)

ok guys, i just bought a 210 and have a question before i start the build. what should i run for medioum/high grip dirt running mod with a 7.5t motor? 3gear MM or a 4gear MM. Also anythig you wanna add that i should look or take care before, during and after the build is greatly appreciated.

Pistol123

Make sure you read/watch the diff build guide - very easy to get the thrust races around the wrong way.

It looks like mm3 is the current trend, however I am still experimenting with mm4 and working out how each adjustment effect the buggy, going to mm3 just adds another veriable.

Enjoy.

Pistol123

Can you stick at 2' anti squat then try to add a little more grip at the rear. Lower the rc at the rear or raise it at the front.

prosport

iTrader: (21)

Perfect, thanks! I'm gonna go with an 81/19 and go from there with speed and heat.

prosport

iTrader: (21)

Well it looks like I'm gonna have to buy a temp gun cuz I'm having issues.

I ran it up and down the street a few times just to test everything and the SP GT2.0LPF esc got hot and shut off before I could even drive it back to me. This was with the 81/23 gearing and the 5.5t Viper motor had 20 degrees endbell timing. Esc felt hot.

So I installed the fan on the esc, took endbell timing down to zero, and went to 87/18 gearing. The esc has zero timing and the DRRS is set at level one.
Took it back outside, car was quite a bit slower and it did the same thing, ran it for 5 or 6 minutes and the esc shut off, this time the esc felt warm but not hot.

Not sure what's causing this, I might frill a few holes in the body around the esc area. Maybe the motor is putting out too many amps? Any ideas?

JRSlash

iTrader: (7)

thanks a lot. ill make sure to watch that. i switch to mm3 on my dest210 but havent try on a track yet. ill set the buggy to mm3 also. thanks!

WallyRC

I would go with MM3. Unless You are on really high bite stuff for MM4. The weight transfer and predictability with MM3 is better for dirt in my opinion.

+1 on the diff build guide. It's tricky but once done they last longer than others. Make sure you have that special c clamp tool.

fredswain

iTrader: (1)

MM3 is best for high grip. MM4 for lower grip.

Roken

Is there a part number for the kit for V2 to V3? Thanks

micholix

If you mean an upgrade kit from V2 to V3, there isn't one existing, yet!?

Edit: in this manual, you can see what is different between the v2 and the v3.
http://www.team-durango.com/pdf/manu...3-addendum.pdf

What i've heard, if you purchase an v3 kit, actually you get the complete v2 kit with the v3 parts been packed by seperatly.
As these are the extra front hubs, front axles and the spacers, rear shaft, dog bones and the crush spacers, 12 mm hexes with the o-rings and pins and the v3 body shell.

Maybe TD is comming out with an update kit!?

Hope this helps?