Durango DEX210 Thread
Tech Regular
iTrader: (13)
if you look at mine, I got around this by cutting off the nose section of a type b chassis and using that at the front. It worked out pretty well. Pretty easy to do if you have a type b chassis sitting around, which is what I had before I built my own chassis.
I must say, yours is quite an excellent build. The machining is very nice and the layout is a bit better thought out than mine for sure. Now for the important part, how does it drive?
I must say, yours is quite an excellent build. The machining is very nice and the layout is a bit better thought out than mine for sure. Now for the important part, how does it drive?
I didn't have a saddle at the time to try, but I did end up adding a 30g fr hanger and 24g of lead on the rear. That was the nice thing about my plastic chassis. It allowed me to add the weight where I wanted it and still weigh about the same (a little less, I think) than the stock chassis. I think I can hit min weight if I switch to CF.
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
What body are you guys running with the +11 or tresrey +10 chassis? Also, do the stock side guards bolt up directly? Thanks in advance
That's what I've suspected would happen so it's good to have some feedback before mine is done.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (13)
I didn't have a saddle at the time to try, but I did end up adding a 30g fr hanger and 24g of lead on the rear. That was the nice thing about my plastic chassis. It allowed me to add the weight where I wanted it and still weigh about the same (a little less, I think) than the stock chassis. I think I can hit min weight if I switch to CF.
Stock al with side pods is 172g
Rtr molded chassis 142g
My set up is 153g
I'm pretty sure i can get the weight down even more before it goes into production
Has anyone done a comparison of the hole locations between the upgraded Durango vertical stud rear hubs vs the Exotek? The Durango has 4 spots whereas the Exotek has 3 but I'm curious if they line up with each other or overlap
Tech Addict
iTrader: (31)
Hey Durango guys. I have a pair of rear wheels and tires that i need to get rid of. They're 14mm DE racing black rims with Gold Barcodes V1. Killer for indoor. Good shape. PM me an offer. Link below.
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4796db93.jpg
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4796db93.jpg
Last edited by jonnymorrow; 01-02-2014 at 09:45 PM.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (31)
Double post. Sorry guys
I have been wondering the same thing. Also, what is the height difference between the mounts after installing ball cups... (what are the differences in camber link angles after installing them.)
Anybody checked out the Assoc B5 mm buggy, what a rip off of the dex210 it has toein inserts castor inserts and even trailing arm inserts ,but you have to buy another buggy if you want to run rm, and then you only have the choice of rm3
it doesn't bother me. does it bother you?
I actually find it quite entertaining. You've got AE guys that say the Durango sucks even though the suspension geometry was derived from the B4. They said it was too complicated and yet the B5 has the features integrated. They complain about the slop in the B4 while the Durango is too tight yet the B5 has updated materials that is probably now on par. I think the new B5's are going to be great cars but the hatred towards a superior 210 over the B4 and now seeing the clone wars reverse is actually quite funny. Manufacturers all copy each other, hence my use of the term clone wars. Everything still progresses and evolves.
I am using the +11 chassis w/ the std Jcon body, all I did was make a new front hole. And yes stock side guards fit all of the extended chassis.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (84)
If anyone is looking for a beautiful mid motor dex210 for a good price with parts pm me or email me at [email protected]
Tech Champion
iTrader: (12)
Scratch in my head on this one, anyone running the D 3.5 rear motor configuration that has a tip on this?
The hole count on the can is low so not many options on fitting it.
Can't really rotate the cap as that moves it way too far to the other side since there's only 3 screws holding it together.
This is putting the solder tabs either way inboard under the slipper adjustment nut or way outboard but not in a vertical position.
The hole count on the can is low so not many options on fitting it.
Can't really rotate the cap as that moves it way too far to the other side since there's only 3 screws holding it together.
This is putting the solder tabs either way inboard under the slipper adjustment nut or way outboard but not in a vertical position.