80LikesDurango DEX210 Thread
09-24-2013, 09:36 AM
Tech Apprentice
09-24-2013, 11:10 AM
But I recently read this is not what you want to do with the durango ball diff or most likely any ball diff.. Bit confused on what to do.
Thanks again.
09-24-2013, 11:29 AM
Anyone? I was going to go set it as some suggested at my club (Crank it down and then back it off until it does not bind)
But I recently read this is not what you want to do with the durango ball diff or most likely any ball diff.. Bit confused on what to do.
Thanks again.
But I recently read this is not what you want to do with the durango ball diff or most likely any ball diff.. Bit confused on what to do.
Thanks again.
Once you build a ball diff there is a small seat or break in period you can do right on the bench, then tighten a bit more. After that there is a slipper set procedure you can do prior to doing final tuning at the track.
Hope this helps.
09-24-2013, 03:20 PM
09-24-2013, 03:26 PM
12mm wheel hexes
What are a few ways to run 12mm hexes.
I have around 50 sc10 and b4 tires and wheels and that's the only thing stopping me from trying a DESC210
I have around 50 sc10 and b4 tires and wheels and that's the only thing stopping me from trying a DESC210
09-24-2013, 03:31 PM
DEST210 to a DESC210
DEST210 to a DESC210
I fond a good deal on a DEST210 KIT with all the hop ups but I want to make it a DESC210 are the chassis and body mounts all I need
I fond a good deal on a DEST210 KIT with all the hop ups but I want to make it a DESC210 are the chassis and body mounts all I need
09-24-2013, 03:58 PM
Anyone? I was going to go set it as some suggested at my club (Crank it down and then back it off until it does not bind)
But I recently read this is not what you want to do with the durango ball diff or most likely any ball diff.. Bit confused on what to do.
Thanks again.
But I recently read this is not what you want to do with the durango ball diff or most likely any ball diff.. Bit confused on what to do.
Thanks again.
I build the diff like most others, I do sand my washers to put a light "honing' cross hatch on them, but the important key IMO is to gradually break in the washers by putting light tension on the diff screw. Chuck the diff up in a cordless drill, holding the exposed out drive and spin the diff for 20sec in fwd/20 sec in rev. Re-chuck the other side outdrive and repeat the process. Add approx 1/4 turn of tension and repeat the process keeping an eye on the diff nut to observe your progress. Dont try to rush it and get the diff and new grease burning hot, take your time, and you'll will get to the point where you have a hard time adding tension. Now, you should be at the "feel it" part where they say back it off so it doesn't bind, the balls and washers are already mated or broke in, should be smooth, with just a hint resistance..
09-24-2013, 04:34 PM
I'm liking the look of the new rear hubs. Like turnbuckles straight rather than needing a 90* twist in them.
Getting my last day of practice tomorrow before the local Monday night indoor series starts. Hopefully the Tazers in the rear and Holeshots up front give me the traction/steering I'm looking for.
Getting my last day of practice tomorrow before the local Monday night indoor series starts. Hopefully the Tazers in the rear and Holeshots up front give me the traction/steering I'm looking for.
09-24-2013, 04:41 PM
Really you need to work your way into the tension part, if you use the build it, torque it down and back it off method, you will be doing it again fairly soon. I am not saying the way I have been doing it is gospel, but it works really well, and I don't have to rebuild very often.
I build the diff like most others, I do sand my washers to put a light "honing' cross hatch on them, but the important key IMO is to gradually break in the washers by putting light tension on the diff screw. Chuck the diff up in a cordless drill, holding the exposed out drive and spin the diff for 20sec in fwd/20 sec in rev. Re-chuck the other side outdrive and repeat the process. Add approx 1/4 turn of tension and repeat the process keeping an eye on the diff nut to observe your progress. Dont try to rush it and get the diff and new grease burning hot, take your time, and you'll will get to the point where you have a hard time adding tension. Now, you should be at the "feel it" part where they say back it off so it doesn't bind, the balls and washers are already mated or broke in, should be smooth, with just a hint resistance..
I build the diff like most others, I do sand my washers to put a light "honing' cross hatch on them, but the important key IMO is to gradually break in the washers by putting light tension on the diff screw. Chuck the diff up in a cordless drill, holding the exposed out drive and spin the diff for 20sec in fwd/20 sec in rev. Re-chuck the other side outdrive and repeat the process. Add approx 1/4 turn of tension and repeat the process keeping an eye on the diff nut to observe your progress. Dont try to rush it and get the diff and new grease burning hot, take your time, and you'll will get to the point where you have a hard time adding tension. Now, you should be at the "feel it" part where they say back it off so it doesn't bind, the balls and washers are already mated or broke in, should be smooth, with just a hint resistance..
09-24-2013, 04:46 PM
09-24-2013, 10:03 PM
09-24-2013, 10:58 PM
Really you need to work your way into the tension part, if you use the build it, torque it down and back it off method, you will be doing it again fairly soon. I am not saying the way I have been doing it is gospel, but it works really well, and I don't have to rebuild very often.
I build the diff like most others, I do sand my washers to put a light "honing' cross hatch on them, but the important key IMO is to gradually break in the washers by putting light tension on the diff screw. Chuck the diff up in a cordless drill, holding the exposed out drive and spin the diff for 20sec in fwd/20 sec in rev. Re-chuck the other side outdrive and repeat the process. Add approx 1/4 turn of tension and repeat the process keeping an eye on the diff nut to observe your progress. Dont try to rush it and get the diff and new grease burning hot, take your time, and you'll will get to the point where you have a hard time adding tension. Now, you should be at the "feel it" part where they say back it off so it doesn't bind, the balls and washers are already mated or broke in, should be smooth, with just a hint resistance..
I build the diff like most others, I do sand my washers to put a light "honing' cross hatch on them, but the important key IMO is to gradually break in the washers by putting light tension on the diff screw. Chuck the diff up in a cordless drill, holding the exposed out drive and spin the diff for 20sec in fwd/20 sec in rev. Re-chuck the other side outdrive and repeat the process. Add approx 1/4 turn of tension and repeat the process keeping an eye on the diff nut to observe your progress. Dont try to rush it and get the diff and new grease burning hot, take your time, and you'll will get to the point where you have a hard time adding tension. Now, you should be at the "feel it" part where they say back it off so it doesn't bind, the balls and washers are already mated or broke in, should be smooth, with just a hint resistance..
Excellent advice! You don't need to spin the diff fast. This methood will give you a long lasting trouble free diff.
09-25-2013, 04:43 AM
for you guys running on tight indoor tracks, what motor do you prefer?
i'm planning on starting with a 6.5 in my 4wds and maybe 7.5 or even 10.5 in the 2wd buggy.
i've been running the super stock 13.5 class but planning on running mod in the next couple of weeks.
i'm planning on starting with a 6.5 in my 4wds and maybe 7.5 or even 10.5 in the 2wd buggy.
i've been running the super stock 13.5 class but planning on running mod in the next couple of weeks.
09-25-2013, 03:23 PM
A 7.5 is a lot of motor for 2wd buggy. Even turned way down the 7.5 I tried was very hard to wheel. The 10.5 is a decent motor, depending on the obstacles and if your speedo has the ability to run a little boost that would be the route I would pick, but that's just me and my $.02
09-25-2013, 04:22 PM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
I'm in the market of buying a new buggy and I'm considering the 210. The problem is, I can't find the 210 in kit form, so I'm thinking of just getting RTR. My question is, is the RTR chassis already the +8? If I buy the optional aluminum (std. in the kit version) one is that +8? Any other suggestions of parts I should buy would be welcomed? I'm either going to get the 210 or the 2.0/.2 tomorrow. I was wanting the kit version to have my son finally put one together himself. Thanks