flame56mx

iTrader: (520)

I have heard some have used them, but they don't measure (11.80mm) the same as the TD ones (12.20mm), so I cant see where they would work the same..
I would get these TD330590 instead..

tony montana

iTrader: (76)

yeah I actually just tried. Yeah they are a little loose in the shock body.

Oasis

iTrader: (38)

Any suggestions on running the Durango in the 17.5 class..motor..battery's..final drive ratio? I've tried running the class but the B4.2's and RB6 are killing us..not fun getting motored..everywhere..

fivepointnine

iTrader: (15)

wish I knew..the top stock guys are running almost 2 seconds a lap faster than the most perfect lap I can put together. Im running 72/32, I was running 69/32 before but struggled in the tight sections. I am swapping out motors this week see if that helps, I am running a Trinity D3 now, I will be running a Shurrspeed this weekend.

ekt

iTrader: (4)

From what I've seen the Trinity D3.5 is the motor for 17.5. Gearing 30-35t pinion with a 69t spur, depending on the track layout/size.

flame56mx

iTrader: (520)

Hah, I am considering the same class. Tried it last year, but the class never took, so I/we went back to mod. I actually had my car in MM4 and it was as light as its ever been at 1580ish, but it current trim its a hefty 1670g..

knowitall156

iTrader: (10)

I'd be very interested in getting the guys that are having success with the 210 in the blinky class to chime in. The buggy mod class has virtually disappeared in the last couple months and everyone locally is running blinky. I pulled my 8.5, dropped in a Fantom/Trinty V2 17.5, 69/33 gearing, 40-50 degrees of can timing, 100c shorty pack and drove it in practice and didn't race it because I didn't feel it was going to be competitive. I must have something not dialed right. The platform works great with my mod motor so looking for some feedback. Thanks.

flame56mx

iTrader: (520)

HERE is the baseline set-up I am staring with..

Oasis

iTrader: (38)

Thanks for all the info. guys..flame what chassis are you using? Stock.. +8

flame56mx

iTrader: (520)

I have a +8 aluminum I am going to try..Otherwise back to either a Dimec or std chassis.

Oasis

iTrader: (38)

I have the stock..+8 and a +1..chassis. .the +11 is as light as the +8..seems to work pretty good but the front to rear balance wasn't "right"..but as you were explaining the droop front to rear balance and It's effect it makes sense. .this is what my buggy was doing..thanks for the info..

flame56mx

iTrader: (520)

Anytime, but I cant take the credit, that is all Brandon Collins.

1slash

iTrader: (2)

Got my Dex210 a couple days ago. The build has been great so far! It's my first time ever building a ball diff. How tight do I want to set this for indoor carpet? and/or a good basic all around setup for the ball diff would be greatly appreciated


Thanks.

ekt

iTrader: (4)

While I am only an average skilled racer, I've found to compete in stock racing you need to keep clean, precise lines to compete as you don't have the excess power of mod to make up for wide lines and crashes.
What your local club is like can play a big part in what is required to compete too. Stock racing can be a cheap form of racing or the most expensive, people buying lightweight parts and the current 'best' electronics to squeeze out any advantage they can get.

micholix

I've just got my little baby, i bought second hand, with quit allot hop ups and spares!
The guy, which sold this one, made me a realy good price for the car without electrics, because i have my own and i'm looking forward for our carpet indoor session...

This pics are from the previus owner, i will upload some new, when i've painted my own shell!