Atomicsickness

iTrader: (26)

Nope. No issues here. Any race quality servo should have no problems.

shagino

iTrader: (57)

I think only the RTR's are running the servo saver. Ditch it!

jha07

iTrader: (3)

What about the stock servo horn? I would think a plastic servo horn with no servo saver wouldn't be a good combo.

P6

iTrader: (5)

I've stripped out two sets of gears on savox 1251 so now I'm back to titanium gears only no more steel gear servos for me never wanted a servo saver it seems like with the grip and speeds it would just cause me more problems and I won't use plastic servo horns they don't last long, just for me that is

Raul Garcia

iTrader: (79)

Hitec 8360, never look back. Youll need the 25t alloy horn for the losi 22. Its a perfect fit.

ekt

iTrader: (4)

I've had no issues with the plastic servo horn, running a savox 1257TG in all my 210 vehicles.

rcjunky1

iTrader: (10)

running a 1258 as that what I had (well, bought if for my evader as its a jack of all trades, then sold the 1251 out of the 210 and put the 1258 in it)with the stock horn, no issues, also ran the 1251 for a bit in a 22 and a 210 with no issues, never even stripped a horn, that said I've ran mostly carpet and turf, so you tend to hit things faster. I bent the stock chassis at the kick up and in front of the servo, when the chassis gets to the wide part in front of the side rail part, it was impressive

nicholasxuu

iTrader: (13)

come on, 2wd buggy are so light (especially the front), servo saver is not really needed.
If you achieve to break a servo that easily, it's the driving, the best solution is to learn to drive/brake/turn. Otherwise, get a good touring car servo saver and have a try.

nicholasxuu

iTrader: (13)

I know I know,
I completely dissembled it, washed every single part, rebuilt it, cleared a few small problems, ran pretty well. Then trying to lighten it and put it into 17.5t class, ended up cutting most of the side guard off. (less than $15 for replacement parts anyways).
cut the side bit of the body off, took the side facing sections and shoogoo/ mesh taped them back into a super narrow body...
considering tower's super low price tag, there's no point selling it anymore, just trying things crazy and see if it works.

the side bit(brace) got disconnected because I made a mistake when trying to cut those off. yes it's kind of bending a bit on big landing. I have a solution to add brace to it (maybe different material to control the stiffness).
it currently have a 17.5t motor in it, and local indoor track doesn't have a big flat landing jump to kill that.
Have heard a lot of rumor saying metal chassis adds kills chassis flex and hurts handling, I guess this chassis won't have such problem then...

P6

iTrader: (5)

I like to go big over jumps for fun or a sc slams me that's the only time I stripped out the plastic horns that's why I gave up, if I were racing 2wd stock or mod I wouldn't drive like that so plastic would be okay I'm not a racer I usually just showed up on practice days so fun is the only concern and that's needs durability

climbaatizept

Hi all.

I´m Building my DEx210 right now, and i nedd to buy a Brushless Combo for it!

What do you guys recomend?
I prefer a cheap combo but that let enjoy the car..

iTz Nicholas72

iTrader: (19)

If I go with the kit I'm thinking about using the Duratrax DE10 ESC and a Trinity D3.5 17.5T combo. That it wait for the RS Gen2 Spec combos...

climbaatizept

Please if you can, send me the links where i can buy..

simonseize

iTrader: (9)

Is the RTR worth buying if I've never raced and just want to take to a track during practice? Is your opinion swayed by a$175 price tag?

Thx!

platgof

iTrader: (4)

That is a very low price. Has anyone messed with the tapered pistons on these? I use the dual tapered pistons on a desc and it works great.