shagino

iTrader: (57)

You can remove the two screws on the side by the top deck swivel. The servo lifts right out. It does leave a tiny burr in the top deck mount though.

If you unscrew the top deck swivel mount, you can push it down a tiny amount to get the that screw out with no burr.

ewashburnaf

iTrader: (14)

+1... slides up and out with a little bit of an angle.

madweazl

iTrader: (12)

Remove the 4 screws from the bottom that go into the front bulkhead and the whole front end will swing up in one piece.

ewashburnaf

iTrader: (14)

Since we all have different methods of accessing and maintaining different areas of this buggy, what do you all think is the best method to get the RF hanger out and replaced on a RM3 setup? It's been such a pain in the past to get to.. I usually end up taking everything off the back just to get that piece swapped out.

RC10Nick

iTrader: (9)

custom chassis, in the style of xfactory:

McD44

iTrader: (16)

Broke the stock one because of the modifications?

RC10Nick

iTrader: (9)

nope, just decided to take it a few steps further.

shagino

iTrader: (57)

I think I just unscrewed the RR hanger and loosened the rest of the transmission and I could ease it out. I may have had to remove the top deck though. Replace it with an aluminum piece and be done with it

Any flex at all?

vr6cj

iTrader: (124)

I have got to say that the snap ring in the diff is the most unconvient pile I have every had the displeasure to work on and I have snap ring pliers.

thanks, thats all. lol

madweazl

iTrader: (12)

I have a ball diff on the way, cant wait...

theclutch

iTrader: (2)

I'm trying to understand what are you trying to accomplish by moving the battery in that direction especially with a mid motor setup?

You're shifting more weight to the back and oddly still have a mid motor setup... AND you're also adding more weight to the outer edges of the car which would make it less nimble. All road race car designers out there aim to get the center of gravity as close to the center line of the car as much as possible and then play with the weight distribution front/back as they see fit.

So by putting more weight to the outer edges of the car, you're making the car want to "lean more" as it's turning. But at the same time, it would be less nimble when you want to change directions. And then by moving the battery to the back (and keeping mid motor setup), you've reduced the amount of weight in the front which would have a tendency to give you less steering...

So, I'm confused with what you're trying to accomplish. But maybe I missed something so I'm open to the thought process. Certainly not trying to insult anyone as I'm just trying to understand.

mechanic77

iTrader: (13)

Yeah, that would have been easier .....but there's a few things you can't tell from the pictures (1)it's a +10mm wheelbase (2)I made the rear of the chassis wider so that the droop screws would still work with arms flipped with the shocks on the back and (3)the chassis is drilled for multiple battery configurations, 6 positions with a shorty (front/back and left/middle/right) and 3 with a full pack (left/middle/right).....

and I'm thinking about making up a set of shock towers for next season.....we'll see what happens

vr6cj

iTrader: (124)

Alot mid motor setups use the config he's trying to do. Yokomo for instance uses this layout in the MR. I have used it in my yoke and my mm rb6 mid motor and its great. Xfactory has used it for years like this Mid motors have so much steering/corner speed as it is and alot less traction in the rear then I like. this actully helps keep the rear more planted and sure footed to me. Helps the rear rotate too.

Its all up to what you are wanting your car to do I guess. U can think of this layout to the standard rear motor in a way with normal esc/reciver vs everything inline esc/reciever.

RC10Nick

iTrader: (9)

Mid motor setups aren't about getting as much weight on the front tires as possible. It's about getting all the weight inside the wheelbase in order to reduce the pendulum effect that happens when the motor sits behind the wheelbase.

As for being nimble, that's not entirely the point of mid motor. As I said, the pendulum effect limits how fast you can go in a turn without swapping ends. Reduce or remove the pendulum, and you can go faster through a turn before you need to worry about swapping ends. Also, mid motor tends to be more stable in bumpier sections. The pendulum effect works in more than one spacial dimension

What makes RM work so well in lower traction is the static weight distribution. It has more weight on the rear. I'm not shocking anyone by saying this. They usually have at least 65% and up to 70% of their weight on the rear tires. The dex210 in mid motor with the battery the whole way back has about 62% on the rear. It's never going to generate as much reach bite like that. Other companies have identified a solution, as vr6cj has pointed out. Turn the battery sideways and get as much freaking weight on the back without putting it outside the wheelbase as possible. My goal is to get at least 65% on the rear without having to add weight. I was up to about 64% with the battery a 1/4" from the motor. With my new configuration, the battery is as close as it can get. That 1/4" will help quite a bit. Also, now I can move my ESC a little off center and 1/4 further back to optimize it's placement and reduce the wire length to help my weight distribution even more.

The whole point of this is to have a car that grips like a rear motor, but drives like a mid motor. I'm getting close. The last time I was out at the track, which is very dusty and loose, I had much more rear grip with the battery the way it is. It was still loose, but I did manage to turn some heads that day. "That's mid motor?" "I can't believe you can get that thing around the track without being all over the place!" etc

Mid motor is still in its "black magic" days, but I think I've got it figured out and I'm ready to have a massive advantage over rear motor drivers until they catch up with physics.

cripplethreat

iTrader: (6)

Could anyone give me a good starting spot for gearing with a 81t spur for 17.5 blinky? I don't want to buy new stuff as soon as I get enough I plan on getting the Avid slipper