glenng

iTrader: (1)

shorty packs. thunder power 3800mah shorty and revtech 4500mah shorty

glenng

iTrader: (1)

either or is fine to be honest. i run dual taper, but the tapers were fine too. also u might wanna pick up metric bits below if you dont have a 1.2 or 1.3mm drill bit. 1.3x4 front and rear is a common piston size used by people at my track and in many of the setups posted. you will wanna hand drill those 1mm holes out with the bit of your choice.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ston-Drill-Set

nicholasxuu

iTrader: (13)

weird thing we talked a last weekend.

losi stock setup is 1.3x4, and AE stock setup is 1.6x2.
Both are pretty good, pretty much everyone is using that for the longest time.
Then during this year's reedy off road ROC, Dustin Evans approved and all losi drivers went to get AE 1.6x2 pistons.
My friend told me last weekend that, AE drivers are all talking and switching to 1.3x4 pistons.

For me, both are pretty much the same, I got pretty fine steady pace in my local track, barely any lap time change either.

Teambcw

iTrader: (28)

If anyone is looking for a great buggy I am selling my 210.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...yosho-rb6.html

wyd

iTrader: (51)

I just started building my DEX210 last night. I have it built up to the start of the transmission. So far the build has gone perfectly so far with no real hang ups. I really slowed down some when doing the steering knuckles and caster block assembly to make sure I have all setup correctly. Its nice with all those changes you can make but its also I see very easy to get something wrong to so I paid special attention to those areas so far. Tranny is up next so I will make sure I take my time building the diff and getting everything in correctly.

Only thing that was minor is I have the Durango rear aluminum hubs and the toe in inserts fit super tight so I doubt I will be changing those out too much. Plus the ball stud is a little long so until I get ones with shorter threads I will either cut mine down a little or will keep 2mm of spacers under the ball stud which is what I might want to do. Need to see what the difference between the plastic rear hub vs the new aluminum ones I have.

I did put on the STRC new front 4mm graphite front shock tower and aluminum camber link mounts. Very nice and a perfect fit. Will AC the graphite tonight just to give it an even nicer look and to keep from splintering.

Still not sure on what oils, pistons and springs I want to run yet but will figure that out tonight.

shagino

iTrader: (57)

Nice! You might not need it but watch this before building the diff.

http://www.team-durango.com/in-the-p...rticle_id=4771

ekt

iTrader: (4)

4mm of spacers under the ballstud give the same height as the plastic piece, for heights under 3mm you'll need to cut down the ballstud

j.d.roost

iTrader: (32)

Put some laps on the rdrp +11 chassis lastnight (carpet).
Car lost a bit of steering (as expected) compaired to the dimec soft +8 but was MUCH smoother. Jumping was very level and the car soaked up landings with less rear bounce then I had with the previous chassis.
Lap timing system was not on so I can't tell if the car was any faster...but it felt much easier to drive. I was also able to run into entry deeper without it traction rolling..This may be do to loosing some steering or the extra weight of the aluminum chassis...Will work on setup this weekend to try and gain back some mid rotation. Was on the fence with this chassis (I don't have deep pockets)...very glad I purchased it.

*
Wanted to add that I broke a rear shock (dented a body) and tossed on my b4.2 set. If the 4.2 shocks were a bit longer they would be a viable option for this car.. There is enough clearance to push through a metric bolt through the bottom ball socket..Up top you need to use the AE standoff/bolt and a 2mm spacer. The shocks worked very good and the car cornered like it was on rails...If I had more droop I would assume it would have jumped better.
Might work good with a lowered shock tower.

Bellvis

Looking for some motor-esc advice.

Just grabbed the DEX210 RTR and ran it at WCRC in La Mirada. Not impressed with the Speed Passions RTR setup. Looking for more speed and punch.
Running 2cell 5000mah 40c Lipos and would like to keep up with the other guys.

Also looking for a different body then the cab forward one that came with it. Bought the DEX210 kit body and it does not fit since its a different chassis.
Any advice?

Cheers

shagino

iTrader: (57)

Gonna need a bigger boat.

Any idea what the other guys were running? I don't think you can add timing to that speedo so upgrade might be your only option.

Heavy B

iTrader: (18)

I recently picked-up a pair of TD vented slipper disks. Upon installation, I think the groove to seat the top shaft pin in is machined too deep. I cannot get the slipper to tighten. I think it's the groove because if I shift the roll pin so it does not seat in the groove I can get it to tighten properly.

Has anyone ran into this issue? I am going to email support for replacement, but I thought I'd ask in case it's operator error.

mulepic

iTrader: (21)

I had the issue where it wouldn't tighten down and it turned out to be slipper spacer wear: http://www.petitrc.com/setup/durango...perSpacerWear/

Bellvis

Not sure what the other guys were running.
I was the only DEX210 practicing with AE B4s and Losi 22s.

I want to upgrade both ESC and Motor, just not sure what to get. I really only know about crawlers.

Don't plan on doing any actual racing, just practicing on the non-race days.

Cheers

mulepic

iTrader: (21)

I run a viper vtx10r w/ the viper 17.5 and love it.

gus6464

iTrader: (2)

You can change the timing on the Speed Passion Cirtix ESC that it comes with. Just have to buy the program card.

http://www.speedpassion.net/uploadfi...ay27th2010.pdf

http://www.speedpassion.net/eu/produ...PESCPB01&c=OPT

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Programing-Box