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Old 03-05-2013, 11:57 AM
  #10471  
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Have 2 sets brand new in packagage TD330339 Steering Knuckle Hub Set. they go for 8.99 i will sell for 12 dollars each shipped or 20 for both sets. Let me know. [email protected]
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Old 03-05-2013, 12:14 PM
  #10472  
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Originally Posted by Oasis
Have you guys tried the taper pistons from Durango? I just got a set but they are the 1.0's and they are not right for the buggy, I have 20wt in them right now and it's way to stiff..
i just put mine in to , my last setup was 30wt front 1.3x4 and 25wt 1.2x4 rear ,, i drilled the new taper pistons to 1.2 and they are 4 hole and im at 27.5wt front and 25wt rear , if you cant drill them then im not sure how you would compensate a 1.0 hole without not liking something about it
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Old 03-05-2013, 01:39 PM
  #10473  
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Originally Posted by Jetboat_Jake
Have 2 sets brand new in packagage TD330339 Steering Knuckle Hub Set. they go for 8.99 i will sell for 12 dollars each shipped or 20 for both sets. Let me know. [email protected]
S to the OLD
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Old 03-05-2013, 04:25 PM
  #10474  
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Originally Posted by rsxskyd
In my b4.1 worlds buggy, 13.5 blinky, I was nailing the triple 90% of the time coming in tight on the pipe. But now im running the 9.5 in the dex210, it struggles with the triple. I understand also that, I have only raced associated and now I sold them all to try a different company, so, tuning is different and will take me a little while to get the hang of how this brand is. So far I love it, I just cant wait to get it more dialed and fine tuned to where I can do what I want with it just like I somewhat did with my b4.1
I would start with the slipper and diff, if they are in proper working order then check bearings and motor. I'm betting glazed pads...
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Old 03-05-2013, 06:20 PM
  #10475  
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Originally Posted by 8ight-e
I must have been tired... lol my truck has the 13.5 and gets the lay up on the triple.. the buggy hits it just fine. I think your diff is most likely fine if you want to try some different tires let me know you can run a few laps weds w/ my bar codes or my ions. I have to say maybe just swap tires or tighten the slipper the buggy w/ that motor should be killing it on the triple. Again sorry lol dont know where my head was ;P



drill them out a touch or drill 2 or 4 out and leave some ;P Play around if you don't like the feel. I have the 1.0x6 in my truck (dest210) w/ 30wt was considering 27.5 but havent made that move yet. I usually run the 1.2x6 w/ 40wt in the rear for my buggy.
lol no problem, and thank you, i might actually want to try some out if you dont mind!!
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Old 03-05-2013, 06:21 PM
  #10476  
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Originally Posted by Rob Phillips
I would start with the slipper and diff, if they are in proper working order then check bearings and motor. I'm betting glazed pads...
Thanks
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Old 03-06-2013, 03:55 AM
  #10477  
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Good news for the people breaking the stock c-hubs http://www.area52.cc/news/3469-rdrp-...ion-parts.html
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Old 03-06-2013, 04:05 AM
  #10478  
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Originally Posted by ekt
Good news for the people breaking the stock c-hubs http://www.area52.cc/news/3469-rdrp-...ion-parts.html
Nice!
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Old 03-06-2013, 06:00 AM
  #10479  
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Originally Posted by Rob Phillips
Nice!
wonder when they will be avail. I wouldn't mind them. I have only broken one chub in the last year but this would transfer the break to the arms which are $2 cheaper.
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Old 03-06-2013, 12:18 PM
  #10480  
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Originally Posted by ekt
Good news for the people breaking the stock c-hubs http://www.area52.cc/news/3469-rdrp-...ion-parts.html
For us here in America this is good news bad news..great that their making alum C hubs.. The "bad" part is here in the USA A main is the only distributor of revolution designs.. Everything is BACK ORDERED!!
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Old 03-06-2013, 02:41 PM
  #10481  
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Originally Posted by ekt
Good news for the people breaking the stock c-hubs http://www.area52.cc/news/3469-rdrp-...ion-parts.html
Looks good, but why the -1mm of track width per side?
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Old 03-06-2013, 03:15 PM
  #10482  
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Originally Posted by sc10pc
hey guys last night at the track i ended up taking first place with my durango the second time ever out on the track! but in the last lap there was like maybe 30 seconds left and i was 3 laps ahead and my buggy decides to crap out in a wierd way! the front axle fell off completely, and the rear hubs both of them the studs pulled all the way out! o and to top it all off the front top deck bushing fell out? so basically i need to do a better job in the pits i guess idk, but what other hubs maybe from other brands or from the dex310 maybe will fit the dex210? also is the top deck bushing worth replacing with the treserey one? thanks guys
What is DEX310 ?
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Old 03-06-2013, 03:22 PM
  #10483  
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Originally Posted by MX943
What is DEX310 ?
I assume it's a typo and he meant DEX410
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Old 03-07-2013, 12:22 AM
  #10484  
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Has anyone had an issue with the wheels pushing to hard against the outer bearing in the rear. There is no crush tube in the aluminum hubs, but wondered if there is anything to do.
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Old 03-07-2013, 12:37 AM
  #10485  
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Originally Posted by the big rc
Has anyone had an issue with the wheels pushing to hard against the outer bearing in the rear. There is no crush tube in the aluminum hubs, but wondered if there is anything to do.
To fix binding issues you can use 5x7mm shims to create a basic crush tube. Taken from the DESC210 thread, but still the same basic idea.
Originally Posted by Jonny5
Shimming Rear Hubs:
-Using the same 5x7mm shims, anywhere from .1-.3mm may be necessary between the bearings (on the rear axle), depending on what hubs are installed. The shims slide onto the axle shaft against the "step" prior to installing the axle into the hub. I'll try to get some measurements up in the near future on this, but for now a bit of trial and error may be needed to find the right amount for your hubs. When shimmed properly, the rear wheels can be tightened down very snug and still spin freely.
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