80LikesDurango DEX210 Thread
02-26-2013, 02:33 AM
I've had mine since they were released and am yet to break a part on it. I lent it out to a friend for our state titles last weekend and he durability tested within an inch of it's life and it still didn't break. And my car is completely stock apart from a CF steering rack and aluminium hexes.
02-26-2013, 02:41 AM
I've had mine since they were released and am yet to break a part on it. I lent it out to a friend for our state titles last weekend and he durability tested within an inch of it's life and it still didn't break. And my car is completely stock apart from a CF steering rack and aluminium hexes.
02-26-2013, 05:14 AM
02-26-2013, 05:51 AM
02-26-2013, 01:13 PM
http://www.zzracing.net/index.php?ma...roducts_id=112 looking around found this,,, for those wanting to lighten up these hinge pins, turnbuckles, cf towers, plastic or cf chassis , depending on esc and battery you might need to add a little weight to bring it up to roar minimum
02-26-2013, 06:40 PM
02-26-2013, 07:47 PM
Front hub-carriers are back in stock at AMain!
02-26-2013, 08:32 PM
i use the wire mesh for helis I get them through Hobby king.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...esh_Guard.html
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...esh_Guard.html
02-26-2013, 10:14 PM
02-27-2013, 01:02 AM
Hey guy's, I got a big endurance race this sunday. I havent had a chance to get my dex210 setup yet. Can you guy's give me a few tips to get me pointed in the right direction? Its a tight indoor carpet track. I just want to be in the ball park when I show up saturday for test and tune. thanks -Chris
02-27-2013, 07:40 AM
Hey guy's, I got a big endurance race this sunday. I havent had a chance to get my dex210 setup yet. Can you guy's give me a few tips to get me pointed in the right direction? Its a tight indoor carpet track. I just want to be in the ball park when I show up saturday for test and tune. thanks -Chris
Brian
02-27-2013, 08:03 AM
Tech Adept
I finally got my dimdc +8 and shorty pack. I am very surprised at the positive difference that made. Adding an oz of weight on the front is essential, too. It changed things a lot and I really like the way this buggy handles and I can tell it has a lot more potential on the clay track I run on this way compared to the shorter aluminum chassis.
I highly recommend the plastic tub, shorty and weight. Thanks for the advice 210 fellow forumers.
Unfortunately the buggy breaks all the time. I have finished less the 25% of my heats with it compared to 100% in all my other classes including the fragile 1/10 4wd buggy class. I have had more breakage on the 210 than the rest of the field combined so far and I am baffled. Yes, I am not a great driver in this class that is new to me, but I can grendade a shock tower or C-hub just by driving awkwardly through the rhythm section. I have a sandwich bag full of smashed parts on that buggy.
My solution was to buy a losi backup truck for when the dingo goes down.
I highly recommend the plastic tub, shorty and weight. Thanks for the advice 210 fellow forumers.
Unfortunately the buggy breaks all the time. I have finished less the 25% of my heats with it compared to 100% in all my other classes including the fragile 1/10 4wd buggy class. I have had more breakage on the 210 than the rest of the field combined so far and I am baffled. Yes, I am not a great driver in this class that is new to me, but I can grendade a shock tower or C-hub just by driving awkwardly through the rhythm section. I have a sandwich bag full of smashed parts on that buggy.
My solution was to buy a losi backup truck for when the dingo goes down.
02-27-2013, 08:32 AM
http://www.thebigrc.com/?p=3918
02-27-2013, 08:34 AM
I finally got my dimdc +8 and shorty pack. I am very surprised at the positive difference that made. Adding an oz of weight on the front is essential, too. It changed things a lot and I really like the way this buggy handles and I can tell it has a lot more potential on the clay track I run on this way compared to the shorter aluminum chassis.
I highly recommend the plastic tub, shorty and weight. Thanks for the advice 210 fellow forumers.
Unfortunately the buggy breaks all the time. I have finished less the 25% of my heats with it compared to 100% in all my other classes including the fragile 1/10 4wd buggy class. I have had more breakage on the 210 than the rest of the field combined so far and I am baffled. Yes, I am not a great driver in this class that is new to me, but I can grendade a shock tower or C-hub just by driving awkwardly through the rhythm section. I have a sandwich bag full of smashed parts on that buggy.
My solution was to buy a losi backup truck for when the dingo goes down.
I highly recommend the plastic tub, shorty and weight. Thanks for the advice 210 fellow forumers.
Unfortunately the buggy breaks all the time. I have finished less the 25% of my heats with it compared to 100% in all my other classes including the fragile 1/10 4wd buggy class. I have had more breakage on the 210 than the rest of the field combined so far and I am baffled. Yes, I am not a great driver in this class that is new to me, but I can grendade a shock tower or C-hub just by driving awkwardly through the rhythm section. I have a sandwich bag full of smashed parts on that buggy.
My solution was to buy a losi backup truck for when the dingo goes down.
Are you using the hardest or softest Dimec chassis?
I don`t understand how people are breaking so much parts.. I`m running indoor now with a 5.5t motor on carpet. Sometimes or about 4-8 times each time I race i will loose grip or hit the curb, doing saltos and hitting the wall at almost full speed, but the 210 survives every time. Same story on the outdoor clay track we have. Really like the 210, but I havent found the best setup for it yet. Going to try the hardest Dimec chassis outside this summer.
02-27-2013, 08:37 AM
I finally got my dimdc +8 and shorty pack. I am very surprised at the positive difference that made. Adding an oz of weight on the front is essential, too. It changed things a lot and I really like the way this buggy handles and I can tell it has a lot more potential on the clay track I run on this way compared to the shorter aluminum chassis.
I highly recommend the plastic tub, shorty and weight. Thanks for the advice 210 fellow forumers.
Unfortunately the buggy breaks all the time. I have finished less the 25% of my heats with it compared to 100% in all my other classes including the fragile 1/10 4wd buggy class. I have had more breakage on the 210 than the rest of the field combined so far and I am baffled. Yes, I am not a great driver in this class that is new to me, but I can grendade a shock tower or C-hub just by driving awkwardly through the rhythm section. I have a sandwich bag full of smashed parts on that buggy.
My solution was to buy a losi backup truck for when the dingo goes down.
I highly recommend the plastic tub, shorty and weight. Thanks for the advice 210 fellow forumers.
Unfortunately the buggy breaks all the time. I have finished less the 25% of my heats with it compared to 100% in all my other classes including the fragile 1/10 4wd buggy class. I have had more breakage on the 210 than the rest of the field combined so far and I am baffled. Yes, I am not a great driver in this class that is new to me, but I can grendade a shock tower or C-hub just by driving awkwardly through the rhythm section. I have a sandwich bag full of smashed parts on that buggy.
My solution was to buy a losi backup truck for when the dingo goes down.
http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=104735
also try putting grub screws in the holes you are not using in the c-hubs if that's the section that you are breaking.