80LikesDurango DEX210 Thread
02-23-2013, 05:46 PM
Hey Guys,
Been a while since checking out the forum; haven't been to the track in a while. Finally got to spend some time w/ my 210 this morning. Car is real twitchy, bouncy on the track. Doesn't absorb any of the little bumps / ruts in the track at all. Turns on a dime when the back end doesn't wash out. Figure I just have the suspension too firm. Looked at a ton of set up info here on this forum to get my starting point:
Springs: Dk green (front), Dk blue (rear)
Pistons: 4 x 1.0 all around (thinking this alone could be an issue)
Oil: #30 Losi (front), #27.5 Losi (rear)
30 deg Caster
Tires: AKA Vektor (front), AKA Rebar (rear)
Shorty battery; tried both front and rear placement.
30 gm (I believe) front nose weight
Gear diff
RM3 configuration
Everything else pretty much per instruction manual.
Lots of things I can change; where should I start? Any help would be appreciated. Unfortunately, married w/ children doesn't give me much free time for trial and error.
Thanks, SoCal
Been a while since checking out the forum; haven't been to the track in a while. Finally got to spend some time w/ my 210 this morning. Car is real twitchy, bouncy on the track. Doesn't absorb any of the little bumps / ruts in the track at all. Turns on a dime when the back end doesn't wash out. Figure I just have the suspension too firm. Looked at a ton of set up info here on this forum to get my starting point:
Springs: Dk green (front), Dk blue (rear)
Pistons: 4 x 1.0 all around (thinking this alone could be an issue)
Oil: #30 Losi (front), #27.5 Losi (rear)
30 deg Caster
Tires: AKA Vektor (front), AKA Rebar (rear)
Shorty battery; tried both front and rear placement.
30 gm (I believe) front nose weight
Gear diff
RM3 configuration
Everything else pretty much per instruction manual.
Lots of things I can change; where should I start? Any help would be appreciated. Unfortunately, married w/ children doesn't give me much free time for trial and error.
Thanks, SoCal
02-23-2013, 07:54 PM
Hey Guys,
Been a while since checking out the forum; haven't been to the track in a while. Finally got to spend some time w/ my 210 this morning. Car is real twitchy, bouncy on the track. Doesn't absorb any of the little bumps / ruts in the track at all. Turns on a dime when the back end doesn't wash out. Figure I just have the suspension too firm. Looked at a ton of set up info here on this forum to get my starting point:
Springs: Dk green (front), Dk blue (rear)
Pistons: 4 x 1.0 all around (thinking this alone could be an issue)
Oil: #30 Losi (front), #27.5 Losi (rear)
30 deg Caster
Tires: AKA Vektor (front), AKA Rebar (rear)
Shorty battery; tried both front and rear placement.
30 gm (I believe) front nose weight
Gear diff
RM3 configuration
Everything else pretty much per instruction manual.
Lots of things I can change; where should I start? Any help would be appreciated. Unfortunately, married w/ children doesn't give me much free time for trial and error.
Thanks, SoCal
Been a while since checking out the forum; haven't been to the track in a while. Finally got to spend some time w/ my 210 this morning. Car is real twitchy, bouncy on the track. Doesn't absorb any of the little bumps / ruts in the track at all. Turns on a dime when the back end doesn't wash out. Figure I just have the suspension too firm. Looked at a ton of set up info here on this forum to get my starting point:
Springs: Dk green (front), Dk blue (rear)
Pistons: 4 x 1.0 all around (thinking this alone could be an issue)
Oil: #30 Losi (front), #27.5 Losi (rear)
30 deg Caster
Tires: AKA Vektor (front), AKA Rebar (rear)
Shorty battery; tried both front and rear placement.
30 gm (I believe) front nose weight
Gear diff
RM3 configuration
Everything else pretty much per instruction manual.
Lots of things I can change; where should I start? Any help would be appreciated. Unfortunately, married w/ children doesn't give me much free time for trial and error.
Thanks, SoCal
Try 1.3 pistons, could be packing to much especially with that high of oil. I would change these out first.
02-23-2013, 08:23 PM
How this made me laugh pretty damn hard. 2wd buggies as mentioned, will always have a tendency to push when applying excessive throttle through a corner.
You said you tried moving battery all the way forward but then got to much steering causing the back end to wash out
I would suggest start with batt all the way forward then move it back in 5mm increments until you have desired turning and rear traction,
Shorty Packs are a must with this car recommend using one if you aren't already.
Also what kick up are you running, More Kickup = more rear grip through corners, Most run 3 degree's.
Some other options you can try, but only do one at a time.
- stiffer rear or softer front springs.
- put the 2 washer on the front hubs on bottom (I have this)
- adjust trailing to be more inline (i am running 0/4 inline)
- raise front inner camber link (2mm under ball stud what I use)
- add 15 grams of weight up front (I got come fishing weights i packed into the front top deck, there is a hollow portion on the bottom where you can stick them
- move shocks on towers out
- decrease rear toe in
- adjust camber (I run 2 degree all around) If you have a lot of high speed corner you will want more camber because of body role will be greater, If you have more slow speed corners then go less.
Also what type of surface are you running on didn't catch that.
You said you tried moving battery all the way forward but then got to much steering causing the back end to wash out
I would suggest start with batt all the way forward then move it back in 5mm increments until you have desired turning and rear traction,
Shorty Packs are a must with this car recommend using one if you aren't already.
Also what kick up are you running, More Kickup = more rear grip through corners, Most run 3 degree's.
Some other options you can try, but only do one at a time.
- stiffer rear or softer front springs.
- put the 2 washer on the front hubs on bottom (I have this)
- adjust trailing to be more inline (i am running 0/4 inline)
- raise front inner camber link (2mm under ball stud what I use)
- add 15 grams of weight up front (I got come fishing weights i packed into the front top deck, there is a hollow portion on the bottom where you can stick them
- move shocks on towers out
- decrease rear toe in
- adjust camber (I run 2 degree all around) If you have a lot of high speed corner you will want more camber because of body role will be greater, If you have more slow speed corners then go less.
Also what type of surface are you running on didn't catch that.
02-23-2013, 08:32 PM
so i am mid motor and need a little more steering on the way out of the corner.
its very aggressive getting into the corner but has a small on power push center off.
i dont want to kill the turn in.
its very aggressive getting into the corner but has a small on power push center off.
i dont want to kill the turn in.
02-23-2013, 09:14 PM
He needs to just nub up and run 4x4 or mod a car for front wheel drive if he wants to be on full throttle while in corners, honestly who gives throttle in a corner? I do on large sweepers because the kickup is then at work and keeping the rear planted but that is very little throttle.
02-23-2013, 11:29 PM
so nice! are you setting it up to be a full +10mm over a stock chassis/setup or are you using front and rear hub spacers to possibly shorten? if running +10mm how do you like it compared to running +8mm chassis and what's your overall initial take on this chassis? thanks Raul!
02-24-2013, 02:15 AM
well i had my first run with the dex210 at a 2day event at bordertown, Australia. I was a bit disapointed with the 210 as i just couldnt nail a setup! My 410 was awesome got 3rd overall with that one.
I just couldnt get the rear end grip i needed and it wouldn't turn that well as there was lots of left and right turns. I tried changing lots of thing to try and get grip and below is the best setup that worked for me but i am still not happy need more rear grip as the car would just keep looping out on me if i was to heavy on the throttle! which wasnt much at all!
The track:-
medium to long size dirt track which generally was dusty! lots of jumps and turns.
My setup:-
RM3
9.5t no turbo or boost
std size lipo all the way back because there was even less grip forward!
stock springs with the 6 hole pistons with 450front and 400 rear oils. I will be changing to 4 hole pistons.
gear diff (not sure what oil as i didnt build the car)
Tires where the same as all the fast guys that seem to have plenty of grip.
23/87 gearing
The 1 thing that i did in the 6th qualifier was to shorten the front links after some advice from another driver and i must say that made the biggest difference It would finally turn in the tight stuff and it seem to give more rear grip! but it was to late by then!
What should i try to do next as i am a bit lost at what to do next?
what oil should i use in a gear diff for a dusty low traction dirt track?
also need a link to where i can get the alloy rear camber brace as i broke the std plastic tag on the tranny case!
Here is a link of a video i made of the racing my 2wd isnt in it but my 4wd is orange black and silver one that is having a 3 way battle with another 410 and a kyosho!
http://youtu.be/eJ-8wCCYDTo
Thanks for any advice you can give me to try and get a better setup for my car!
peter
I just couldnt get the rear end grip i needed and it wouldn't turn that well as there was lots of left and right turns. I tried changing lots of thing to try and get grip and below is the best setup that worked for me but i am still not happy need more rear grip as the car would just keep looping out on me if i was to heavy on the throttle! which wasnt much at all!
The track:-
medium to long size dirt track which generally was dusty! lots of jumps and turns.
My setup:-
RM3
9.5t no turbo or boost
std size lipo all the way back because there was even less grip forward!
stock springs with the 6 hole pistons with 450front and 400 rear oils. I will be changing to 4 hole pistons.
gear diff (not sure what oil as i didnt build the car)
Tires where the same as all the fast guys that seem to have plenty of grip.
23/87 gearing
The 1 thing that i did in the 6th qualifier was to shorten the front links after some advice from another driver and i must say that made the biggest difference It would finally turn in the tight stuff and it seem to give more rear grip! but it was to late by then!
What should i try to do next as i am a bit lost at what to do next?
what oil should i use in a gear diff for a dusty low traction dirt track?
also need a link to where i can get the alloy rear camber brace as i broke the std plastic tag on the tranny case!
Here is a link of a video i made of the racing my 2wd isnt in it but my 4wd is orange black and silver one that is having a 3 way battle with another 410 and a kyosho!
http://youtu.be/eJ-8wCCYDTo
Thanks for any advice you can give me to try and get a better setup for my car!
peter
02-24-2013, 05:10 AM
so nice! are you setting it up to be a full +10mm over a stock chassis/setup or are you using front and rear hub spacers to possibly shorten? if running +10mm how do you like it compared to running +8mm chassis and what's your overall initial take on this chassis? thanks Raul!
This is a +8 chassis made by RCJUNKY, its the light version. I weighed my car before disassembly and it weighed in without lipo 1210g. After reassembly, with the new chassis, it weighed in @ 1184g. This is considerable. I am test running the chassis today, but I also am eagerly awaiting the Tresrey +10 chassis.
02-24-2013, 05:10 AM
well i had my first run with the dex210 at a 2day event at bordertown, Australia. I was a bit disapointed with the 210 as i just couldnt nail a setup! My 410 was awesome got 3rd overall with that one.
I just couldnt get the rear end grip i needed and it wouldn't turn that well as there was lots of left and right turns. I tried changing lots of thing to try and get grip and below is the best setup that worked for me but i am still not happy need more rear grip as the car would just keep looping out on me if i was to heavy on the throttle! which wasnt much at all!
The track:-
medium to long size dirt track which generally was dusty! lots of jumps and turns.
My setup:-
RM3
9.5t no turbo or boost
std size lipo all the way back because there was even less grip forward!
stock springs with the 6 hole pistons with 450front and 400 rear oils. I will be changing to 4 hole pistons.
gear diff (not sure what oil as i didnt build the car)
Tires where the same as all the fast guys that seem to have plenty of grip.
23/87 gearing
The 1 thing that i did in the 6th qualifier was to shorten the front links after some advice from another driver and i must say that made the biggest difference It would finally turn in the tight stuff and it seem to give more rear grip! but it was to late by then!
What should i try to do next as i am a bit lost at what to do next?
what oil should i use in a gear diff for a dusty low traction dirt track?
also need a link to where i can get the alloy rear camber brace as i broke the std plastic tag on the tranny case!
Here is a link of a video i made of the racing my 2wd isnt in it but my 4wd is orange black and silver one that is having a 3 way battle with another 410 and a kyosho!
http://youtu.be/eJ-8wCCYDTo
Thanks for any advice you can give me to try and get a better setup for my car!
peter
I just couldnt get the rear end grip i needed and it wouldn't turn that well as there was lots of left and right turns. I tried changing lots of thing to try and get grip and below is the best setup that worked for me but i am still not happy need more rear grip as the car would just keep looping out on me if i was to heavy on the throttle! which wasnt much at all!
The track:-
medium to long size dirt track which generally was dusty! lots of jumps and turns.
My setup:-
RM3
9.5t no turbo or boost
std size lipo all the way back because there was even less grip forward!
stock springs with the 6 hole pistons with 450front and 400 rear oils. I will be changing to 4 hole pistons.
gear diff (not sure what oil as i didnt build the car)
Tires where the same as all the fast guys that seem to have plenty of grip.
23/87 gearing
The 1 thing that i did in the 6th qualifier was to shorten the front links after some advice from another driver and i must say that made the biggest difference It would finally turn in the tight stuff and it seem to give more rear grip! but it was to late by then!
What should i try to do next as i am a bit lost at what to do next?
what oil should i use in a gear diff for a dusty low traction dirt track?
also need a link to where i can get the alloy rear camber brace as i broke the std plastic tag on the tranny case!
Here is a link of a video i made of the racing my 2wd isnt in it but my 4wd is orange black and silver one that is having a 3 way battle with another 410 and a kyosho!
http://youtu.be/eJ-8wCCYDTo
Thanks for any advice you can give me to try and get a better setup for my car!
peter
My 210 is night and day using geardiff/ balldiff on that type of track. I too need a fullsize lipo to get the car planted. With a shorty its wheelies on the long straight and spinning out in the corners. Seems my 210 like to be fat.. Try a balldiff and use the geardiff for carpet and astroturf.
02-24-2013, 05:11 AM
Stiffen the rear spring, shorten the camber link, & or make the shock more linear.
02-24-2013, 11:37 AM
I'm going to be switching over from stock to mod for the upcoming spring/summer points series and I'm wanting to know if those of you running mod are running shorties or full size lipos? I have one of each I could use just debating as I run on a med-large indoor fairly smooth track so I'm wondering if the heavier lipo would keep the rear end planted a little better with the hotter motor? Thanks
02-24-2013, 11:53 AM
I'm going to be switching over from stock to mod for the upcoming spring/summer points series and I'm wanting to know if those of you running mod are running shorties or full size lipos? I have one of each I could use just debating as I run on a med-large indoor fairly smooth track so I'm wondering if the heavier lipo would keep the rear end planted a little better with the hotter motor? Thanks
02-24-2013, 12:08 PM
Finding the right location (front to rear) is far more important iMO. I run a shorty and my buggy is great, planted and drives where I tell it. My buddy has one and runs standard pack and we battle all the time. So thinking of it that way if you have traction issues and can find a balance the large pack will be nice, if you can find the right traction w/ the shorty it gives you a lot more space to find the right f/r balance to help jumping etc. I actually have mine two-way taped in place as the ideal location didn't line up w/ the hold downs.
02-24-2013, 08:45 PM
Hey guys its been awhile since ive posted around on rctech and since the last time i posted i bought myself a dex210 and a gear diff and love it! I love the car and i am getting alot of positive feedback on it at the track! But i am really frustrated with the rear hex pins falling out every time i take the wheel off! Is there any othe hexes fom any other kits that will fi on the buggy without changing width? Also the reason im asking aboit other kits is that the treserey ones and the exotek ones are out of stock for like another month! Thanks guys.
02-24-2013, 08:56 PM
Hey guys its been awhile since ive posted around on rctech and since the last time i posted i bought myself a dex210 and a gear diff and love it! I love the car and i am getting alot of positive feedback on it at the track! But i am really frustrated with the rear hex pins falling out every time i take the wheel off! Is there any othe hexes fom any other kits that will fi on the buggy without changing width? Also the reason im asking aboit other kits is that the treserey ones and the exotek ones are out of stock for like another month! Thanks guys.