Durango DEX210 Thread
#9017
Tech Addict
iTrader: (22)
here's my setup from this past Friday if anyone is interested.
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/durango...de20121130.pdf
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/durango...de20121130.pdf
#9018
Here's some really nice shots of Dingo's at a club race this past weekend. The photos were taken by jmackani and originally posted here.
We had a huge turnout with everyone wanting to practice before the big Christmas race coming up. 36 Buggies in all, and about 4 or 5 were 210's. I was the only one in the A though Mine is the blue/white/yellow running MM4 config. The pic with my balance plug danglin' out is kinda embarrassing
We had a huge turnout with everyone wanting to practice before the big Christmas race coming up. 36 Buggies in all, and about 4 or 5 were 210's. I was the only one in the A though Mine is the blue/white/yellow running MM4 config. The pic with my balance plug danglin' out is kinda embarrassing
#9019
Does anybody make swaybar sets for the 210 yet?
Has anybody made their own? If you have, could you post a few pics please?
Has anybody made their own? If you have, could you post a few pics please?
#9020
Hi Sean,
No, I have never seen anyone 1/10 or 1/8 scale buggies running foams. Only the car guys are running foams on the on-road track in the back. If you're 'local' to Universal I wouldn't bother ordering Schumacher tires/inserts online; Universal carries Mini Pin Yellow rears and Cut Stagger Yellow fronts (and Mini Pin Yellow 4WD front). Save on the shipping charges (unless you want other compounds then you'll have to order online)...
Neil
No, I have never seen anyone 1/10 or 1/8 scale buggies running foams. Only the car guys are running foams on the on-road track in the back. If you're 'local' to Universal I wouldn't bother ordering Schumacher tires/inserts online; Universal carries Mini Pin Yellow rears and Cut Stagger Yellow fronts (and Mini Pin Yellow 4WD front). Save on the shipping charges (unless you want other compounds then you'll have to order online)...
Neil
Unfortunately I'm from Sudbury, not very local at all. I wish we had something like that further north.
I was just browsing the Universal website and noticed the buggy class is rear-motor only. Kinda defeats the purpose of buying a DEX210 (or Losi 22). Not looking to race the complete points or trophy series but if that's what's going on the day I'm down there I would like to be able to run the car anyway. Are they real sticklers for this rule for casual racers who may only participate a few times a year? Or can the RM setups on the 210 run with the other buggies? What I'm reading is the 210 is rear-heavy to begin with.
I don't actually have the car in hand yet so I'm trying to anticipate what springs and shock oil weight to get beforehand. I have been looking at setups on the Petit Racing links that have been posted but most of the setups are running much faster motors than the one my son will. (his buggy really) I was hoping to start him off near 13.5ish. He has a Duratrax Elements setup (3900kv) on 2s in his HPI Blitz and I think it's too much motor for him right now. He's only 13 and hasn't raced but a handful of races so he's very green.
Sean
#9021
I really like driving my dex210 but I'm not perfect at it and have broken a handful of parts. Sometimes I have to make my own parts that can withstand my driving. Here's the latest:
This part is 12 grams heavier than the stock plastic part.
The front C-hub is next.
This part is 12 grams heavier than the stock plastic part.
The front C-hub is next.
#9022
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (1)
I got my 210 out to the track for the first time Friday and overall I love it. I do have one problem that I am hoping you guys might be of some help with.
I cannot seem to be able to keep my slipper from constantly slipping. I am running stock slipper parts and I have triple checked my build- I can't find any issues. I do have rcshox pads coming but I can't figure out what is up. Does the slipper have a special break in procedure?
Thanks
I cannot seem to be able to keep my slipper from constantly slipping. I am running stock slipper parts and I have triple checked my build- I can't find any issues. I do have rcshox pads coming but I can't figure out what is up. Does the slipper have a special break in procedure?
Thanks
#9023
I got my 210 out to the track for the first time Friday and overall I love it. I do have one problem that I am hoping you guys might be of some help with.
I cannot seem to be able to keep my slipper from constantly slipping. I am running stock slipper parts and I have triple checked my build- I can't find any issues. I do have rcshox pads coming but I can't figure out what is up. Does the slipper have a special break in procedure?
Thanks
I cannot seem to be able to keep my slipper from constantly slipping. I am running stock slipper parts and I have triple checked my build- I can't find any issues. I do have rcshox pads coming but I can't figure out what is up. Does the slipper have a special break in procedure?
Thanks
First mistake most make when building this car is not building the diff correctly. That or thinking it's tight enough when it's not.
A simple way to test, run it hard for a couple laps and quickly check the temperature of the slipper plate. If it's not HOT then your slipper isn't the thing that's slipping.
#9024
Suspended
I got my 210 out to the track for the first time Friday and overall I love it. I do have one problem that I am hoping you guys might be of some help with.
I cannot seem to be able to keep my slipper from constantly slipping. I am running stock slipper parts and I have triple checked my build- I can't find any issues. I do have rcshox pads coming but I can't figure out what is up. Does the slipper have a special break in procedure?
Thanks
I cannot seem to be able to keep my slipper from constantly slipping. I am running stock slipper parts and I have triple checked my build- I can't find any issues. I do have rcshox pads coming but I can't figure out what is up. Does the slipper have a special break in procedure?
Thanks
#9025
Suspended
#9026
Most likely that's not your slipper slipping, it's your diff.
First mistake most make when building this car is not building the diff correctly. That or thinking it's tight enough when it's not.
A simple way to test, run it hard for a couple laps and quickly check the temperature of the slipper plate. If it's not HOT then your slipper isn't the thing that's slipping.
First mistake most make when building this car is not building the diff correctly. That or thinking it's tight enough when it's not.
A simple way to test, run it hard for a couple laps and quickly check the temperature of the slipper plate. If it's not HOT then your slipper isn't the thing that's slipping.
First have a local fast guy check your diff and make sure it feels tight enough but not too tight. Im always amazed at how the pros can tell just by feel.
To check the tightness of your slipper, place the car on your table, hold both the rear wheels and gas the throttle real quick. I like to have the front wheels of the buggy lift off the table maybe 1 to 2 inches. If they don't come off the ground the slipper is too loose, or if you hear a chattering noise, or feel some grinding, your diff is too loose and probably toast. If you buggy raises 4 to 5 inches or more off the table, the diff is too tight in my opinion.
#9027
Where the motor is mounted would affect this so maybe a MM setup would be lighter in the rear than a B4.
Sean
#9029
Suspended
err no. why would you be comparing a mid motor to a rear motor..the b4 all setup has more weight in the rear than the 210 rm, you don't believe me go to the track and compare your 210 to a b4.1 wc properly set up. the b4 had more weight to the rear. tours why you see the b4 runing stiffer springs and pistons compared to a similar 210
#9030
Not sure how it compares to the b4, but Cush runs his buggies between 63.5-65% rear bias, depending on battery placement. Very similar to the "ideal" percentage that MM guys shoot for, but he runs RM3. Centered esc, shorty pack in front of it.