Durango DEX210 Thread
#8071
Tech Champion
iTrader: (7)
Same here dan-o. I built the car running the turnbuckles in and out of the ball cups several times. I did have to take two of the links back off and run them in and out again a few times. Those two were popping off when adjusting camber. But all good now.
Haven't had one pop off yet from a crash. Knock on wood. Probably at least 20 battery packs worth of run time now.
I actually notice the turnbuckles move in/out slightly, but only from rubbing the pipe at full speed or during crashes. But I have the same thing happen in 8th scale sometimes. Just gotta check camber and toe before/after each run.
Hand up. I've always used RPM ballcups on the Associated cars.
Haven't had one pop off yet from a crash. Knock on wood. Probably at least 20 battery packs worth of run time now.
I actually notice the turnbuckles move in/out slightly, but only from rubbing the pipe at full speed or during crashes. But I have the same thing happen in 8th scale sometimes. Just gotta check camber and toe before/after each run.
Hand up. I've always used RPM ballcups on the Associated cars.
#8072
There have been many who have had issues with the ball cups, and many who haven't. They require a little more attention than other brands, but understand other cars have uniqueness also. Show of hands--how many b4's owners out there with RPM ballcups? Or 22 owners running AE diff parts, Or etc.... I have the stock ball cups on my car, and also have them on my 410, and they have never been a problem area..
#8074
Ive been happy with the hd ball cups. I built them per all the tips, tricks, and instruction i could find. No issue. My issue was the size is unique, and parts are hard to find in these parts... I used AE parts in my 22, and rpm on my B4.1. Not knocking the 210, just commenting on my experience.
I do think the buggy needs some minor refinements:
The steering linkage should be carbon or aluminum out of the box.
Four hole pistons should be included in the kit. (Or at least supply some tooth picks... LOL).
Shock caps and o-rings need to fit better (to keep the o-rings from buldging)
The ball cup plastic should be revised for those with problems. (And there are many)
Other than that the buggy is great!
I do think the buggy needs some minor refinements:
The steering linkage should be carbon or aluminum out of the box.
Four hole pistons should be included in the kit. (Or at least supply some tooth picks... LOL).
Shock caps and o-rings need to fit better (to keep the o-rings from buldging)
The ball cup plastic should be revised for those with problems. (And there are many)
Other than that the buggy is great!
#8075
Ive been happy with the hd ball cups. I built them per all the tips, tricks, and instruction i could find. No issue. My issue was the size is unique, and parts are hard to find in these parts... I used AE parts in my 22, and rpm on my B4.1. Not knocking the 210, just commenting on my experience.
I do think the buggy needs some minor refinements:
The steering linkage should be carbon or aluminum out of the box.
Four hole pistons should be included in the kit. (Or at least supply some tooth picks... LOL).
Shock caps and o-rings need to fit better (to keep the o-rings from buldging)
The ball cup plastic should be revised for those with problems. (And there are many)
Other than that the buggy is great!
I do think the buggy needs some minor refinements:
The steering linkage should be carbon or aluminum out of the box.
Four hole pistons should be included in the kit. (Or at least supply some tooth picks... LOL).
Shock caps and o-rings need to fit better (to keep the o-rings from buldging)
The ball cup plastic should be revised for those with problems. (And there are many)
Other than that the buggy is great!
#8076
Tech Champion
iTrader: (7)
Agree to the chamfer of the shock caps. Worked like a charm with big bore o-rings. My LHS is still building his supply of Rango parts. So no small bore parts at all.
I think there are now 4 DEX210's running at our track now. So the parts should really roll in now. I'm hoping there's a big order showing up tomorrow. I'm gonna be there first thing to get first dibs. LoL.
I think there are now 4 DEX210's running at our track now. So the parts should really roll in now. I'm hoping there's a big order showing up tomorrow. I'm gonna be there first thing to get first dibs. LoL.
#8081
Running in full trailing will be the smoothest/least aggressive. As you move the axle forward, turn-in will be more aggressive. Also, if you move the axle forward 1mm, you should move the caster block back 1mm to keep the wheelbase the same.
#8082
Anybody try the new 8+mm chassis for the DEX210? You have to buy the 8mm extra body to but it's only $20 for the body and $50 for both. The bew body looks sick to. Let me know if it adds and durability or better performance or just pm me. Thanks
#8083
Tech Champion
iTrader: (79)
Hey Carl. How have you been? I have experimented with different blocks for trailing to max inline . I have come to like max inline the best along with 4mm behind the castor block . It give the most consistent feel. more trailing kills the steering. I'm running between RCHR or Wolcott .
#8085
tranny access is one downside of a multi purpose tranny like this one.