Durango DEX210 Thread
#3707
Try Bugle Boy Racing (website is temporarily down atm ; PM Bugle)
Fit is ace and includes a front bumper.
8racing also does a neat carbon chassis. I can't give any feedback as I haven't had enough track time yet thanks to all the rain here lately in Oz (La Niņa)
Fit is ace and includes a front bumper.
8racing also does a neat carbon chassis. I can't give any feedback as I haven't had enough track time yet thanks to all the rain here lately in Oz (La Niņa)
Last edited by Carlos69; 01-20-2012 at 04:23 AM. Reason: Changed BBR site to correct address
#3709
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (42)
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Queensland, Australia, Earth, Galaxy, Universe, A Childs Sandpit
Posts: 937
Trader Rating: 42 (100%+)
TD, I have to say what a heap of shit build you have here. EVERY single step in the build has something wrong with it. Either a part is missing from the bag or the instructions are wrong. I've had to dive in to my spare screws to proceed to the next step. One step had extra washers.. Where is the Moly grease in the kit that is being asked to use on the thrust bearings?? I only see you supplying Gear grease and silicone grease.. We buy a kit and are forced to buy a tool for the clip in the diff???? WTF??? Who has one of them just lying around? And why does it need to be there anyway.. Why couldn't it just be a washer? There is no need to lock the trust bearings in to the out-drive because once you sandwhich the diff together it's locked in to place. . I'm on bag F now and it's telling me to use parts that are clearly wrong.. (the spacers that go between the C block and the diff housing). Why do we have to buy TD rims for the car? Seems very arrogant to the RC market to force them to buy TD rims and not allowed to use proline etc etc. Absolutely no need for hexes that big on a 1/10th scale car.
I've got and built the DNX408 and that build was perfect.. Which led me to buy and race the dex210.. What happened with this kit TD? You stuffed this one up royally.
I've got and built the DNX408 and that build was perfect.. Which led me to buy and race the dex210.. What happened with this kit TD? You stuffed this one up royally.
#3710
Not the easiest build, but a pretty nice car once its together.
#3711
Hey Raul, good to see you over here. So is the Cougar gone for good? I made the change couple of months back and have never regreted it. You'll really enjoy this car.
#3712
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
TD, I have to say what a heap of shit build you have here. EVERY single step in the build has something wrong with it. Either a part is missing from the bag or the instructions are wrong. I've had to dive in to my spare screws to proceed to the next step. One step had extra washers.. Where is the Moly grease in the kit that is being asked to use on the thrust bearings?? I only see you supplying Gear grease and silicone grease.. We buy a kit and are forced to buy a tool for the clip in the diff???? WTF??? Who has one of them just lying around? And why does it need to be there anyway.. Why couldn't it just be a washer? There is no need to lock the trust bearings in to the out-drive because once you sandwhich the diff together it's locked in to place. . I'm on bag F now and it's telling me to use parts that are clearly wrong.. (the spacers that go between the C block and the diff housing). Why do we have to buy TD rims for the car? Seems very arrogant to the RC market to force them to buy TD rims and not allowed to use proline etc etc. Absolutely no need for hexes that big on a 1/10th scale car.
I've got and built the DNX408 and that build was perfect.. Which led me to buy and race the dex210.. What happened with this kit TD? You stuffed this one up royally.
I've got and built the DNX408 and that build was perfect.. Which led me to buy and race the dex210.. What happened with this kit TD? You stuffed this one up royally.
The snap ring in the diff is a necessity... a washer WILL NOT work...it has to lock in or else it wont operate and the diff will slip. Follow the all the build tips on the TD website and the car goes together great. My car had extra screw in a different unmarked bag....wasn't missing anything from my kit at all. DE Racing makes wheels for the car and pretty readily available in FOUR different colors (gray/silver, black, white and yellow). You can also change out the hex in the rear and run a Losi 22 wheel if you want and a Tamiya TRF201 front wheel is a direct fit (metric bearings). Wait till you build the ballcups....LOL - again, go to the Team Durango website and look at the build tips on there.....they have them for the diff and the ball cups which helps a ton...and all these build tips have been on the website since November.
Oh, and we all figured out over a month ago to use the online manual instead of the booklet as the online manual had some revisions done.
Hope you get the car worked out..I think you'll enjoy the drive.
#3714
With a spacer and cone washer, you can run B4 rears too.
#3717
Tech Regular
iTrader: (21)
I can't figure out how to stop my bump steer I read previous posts about shimming the ball cups but it hasn't worked right now Im running 35 degrees castor and full inline, I tried flipping the ball cups on the steering rack but it still toes out when fully compressed
any suggestions?
any suggestions?
#3718
TD, I have to say what a heap of shit build you have here. EVERY single step in the build has something wrong with it. Either a part is missing from the bag or the instructions are wrong. I've had to dive in to my spare screws to proceed to the next step. One step had extra washers.. Where is the Moly grease in the kit that is being asked to use on the thrust bearings?? I only see you supplying Gear grease and silicone grease.. We buy a kit and are forced to buy a tool for the clip in the diff???? WTF??? Who has one of them just lying around? And why does it need to be there anyway.. Why couldn't it just be a washer? There is no need to lock the trust bearings in to the out-drive because once you sandwhich the diff together it's locked in to place. . I'm on bag F now and it's telling me to use parts that are clearly wrong.. (the spacers that go between the C block and the diff housing). Why do we have to buy TD rims for the car? Seems very arrogant to the RC market to force them to buy TD rims and not allowed to use proline etc etc. Absolutely no need for hexes that big on a 1/10th scale car.
I've got and built the DNX408 and that build was perfect.. Which led me to buy and race the dex210.. What happened with this kit TD? You stuffed this one up royally.
I've got and built the DNX408 and that build was perfect.. Which led me to buy and race the dex210.. What happened with this kit TD? You stuffed this one up royally.
#3719
Tech Lord
iTrader: (52)
I can't figure out how to stop my bump steer I read previous posts about shimming the ball cups but it hasn't worked right now Im running 35 degrees castor and full inline, I tried flipping the ball cups on the steering rack but it still toes out when fully compressed
any suggestions?
any suggestions?