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Old 06-06-2014, 09:17 AM   #14641
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Just orders a v2, anything I need to get upfront?
Mine is solid also, no upgrades needed, out of the box setup first time driving I was 1 second faster than everyone else with fastest lap, and consistency was about .5 seconds faster. This thing is a lot better than I expected.
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Old 06-06-2014, 12:05 PM   #14642
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please forgive me for the confusing posts, I shouldn't post so late at night after not sleeping!
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Old 06-07-2014, 01:10 AM   #14643
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I think I will probably order a V2 soon and perhaps turn this into my rear motor outdoor setup…At any rate, I've just tried to setup the front with the V1 longer shocks and flat arms as well as the Tresrey CF tower. I DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS You don't have much travel and the car hits the bottom of the shocks before the chassis hits the ground and thus the car can't lean much. Would probably have real trouble with bigger bumps too. Figured I'd share since I thought I saw some questions about the new front end pieces….It seems this is why the V2 setup is shorter to allow for more up-travel.
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Last edited by 13Maschine; 06-07-2014 at 02:08 PM. Reason: clarity
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Old 06-07-2014, 12:30 PM   #14644
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I would like to share my thoughts on using the v2 rear arms and rear tower with the shocks mounted on the back position in mm4 racing on carpet, i found that it gave me less steering both on and off power, switched it to front mounted shocks and its got heaps of steering, i can recommend the v2 rear tower i had some bad crashes that would have broken the old tower but not the v2
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Old 06-07-2014, 01:29 PM   #14645
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13macchine,
I am using MOS V1 bodies and V1 shaft limited internally and V2 tower and arms. I have not had one issue with this setup outdoors on big jumps. Ill be racing it tomorrow on our 1/8 track.
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Old 06-07-2014, 01:31 PM   #14646
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I would like to share my thoughts on using the v2 rear arms and rear tower with the shocks mounted on the back position in mm4 racing on carpet, i found that it gave me less steering both on and off power, switched it to front mounted shocks and its got heaps of steering, i can recommend the v2 rear tower i had some bad crashes that would have broken the old tower but not the v2
The point of relocation of the shock to the rear is exactly what you experienced. People use this setup for loose surface. But im glad you figured it out.. V2 parts are much nicer in every way.
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Old 06-07-2014, 02:05 PM   #14647
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@Raul: What is the length of the MOS V1 bodies and V1 shafts that you are using? both please, or are they the same dimensions as the V2? Are they smaller than the stock V1 body and shaft setup?

Also, I think you may have already answered but are you using the 410 mod rear wing mount to take it up a notch? (you like that one?)
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Old 06-08-2014, 03:01 PM   #14648
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For a indoor clay track planning to run 17.5 blinky mid motor. Any good set ups? I picked up a d3.5 17,5 maxilla and a 70t spur, picked up alum axles how heavy is the car with alum chassis or should I get the dimec chassis for 17.5?
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Old 06-08-2014, 03:02 PM   #14649
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Does anyone make lighter out drives and axles or topshaft like they do for the b5's
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Old 06-08-2014, 03:38 PM   #14650
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I wouldn't recommend aluminum outdrives unless you plan to run the stock plastic hexes. I've had a couple axels break from the smallest of errors on jumps. Dimec20 for 17.5, would be the lightest option.
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Old 06-08-2014, 09:45 PM   #14651
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The gear diff with lightweight outdrives and plastic internals and aluminum axles are about it. The drilled slipper plates are actually heavier. For Motorama I ran the lightweight gear diff and plastic dimec type B chassis and had horsepower to spare with low motor temps.
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Old 06-09-2014, 12:37 AM   #14652
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How is the car mm? Planned to run the electronics inline as ESC in front of motor shorty pack against it and the rest up front of batt, any rear weight needed? As far as the best diff goes what type of track were you running on? Any advantage using gear diff? Wa there any performance loss or gain from ball diff? What oil in diff?
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Old 06-09-2014, 01:34 AM   #14653
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It seems that everyone must be doing the v1 to v2 conversion as amain and tower have no front arms or shorter shock shafts until September, bad luck if you buy a v2 buggy and break a front arm you may end up having to put the v1 arms on it or leave it on the shelf
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Old 06-09-2014, 07:46 AM   #14654
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It'll take an aweful lot to break and arm/shock shaft on these cars, I think I broke an arm when I raced on turf, probably going very fast into a cinder block. Under normal bad driver conditions, they'll have no problems
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Old 06-09-2014, 08:31 AM   #14655
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For a indoor clay track planning to run 17.5 blinky mid motor. Any good set ups? I picked up a d3.5 17,5 maxilla and a 70t spur, picked up alum axles how heavy is the car with alum chassis or should I get the dimec chassis for 17.5?
I would look into getting some ceramic bearings and a set of CB's cut gears. .that should help free up the drivetrain. .the handling is great on this car..I ran a durango for about 2 years, worked great in 13.5 class..not so much in 17.5....but I run at rainmans sometimes..
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