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Old 06-04-2014, 03:37 AM   #14626
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I'm afraid of using Alum wing mounts, WAY too stiff. Broken wings and towers is what I would expect using it. Are you running them? What's your experience?
Hi 13Maschine, i havent them, but i would like to buy them!
Otherwise, when fredswain sayes, that they are still to low, may i'm looking for an altenative!?
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Old 06-04-2014, 01:29 PM   #14627
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+1 for alternate shock ends. I think associated shock ends might work but then you need to use their cups….I think the springs work ok with associated cups. I don't have them to check anymore….
Use the droop screws to take out a tiny amount of down travel then your not putting any stress on the shock ends, i've never had a problem with them using this method
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Old 06-04-2014, 05:08 PM   #14628
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That's certainly a convenient excuse but 100% unfounded in this case. You are already running an overly heavy, under performing for it's size wing. Yes it does something. Just not muchfor its total area. I'd rather have a smaller wing up where it works well and get the benefits of it than keep it lower. I want to run our old Bullet Racing wings. They were graphite and had no side dams. Very light and surprisingly impact resistant. They were also stiff. The design allowed you to carry more downforce into a corner than any other wing. The stock 210 wing and location would have exactly 0 advantages over it. Especially in its horrible for performance location. The stock wing performance certainly matches the "benefits" of cab a forward though! I guess if one placebo works another one will too.
I guess if you could get it up into clean air you could do with less material on the wing and cut weight that got raised? Only one way to find out, slightly lower rear tower and slightly higher wing mount... more than the RDRC +8 mount (410 mount?) then chop 3/4 of the wing height down.
The base of the wing on my B44 sits about flush with the top of the tower, maybe sway bars and RC tuning offset the weight up taller? Works well though
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Old 06-04-2014, 09:40 PM   #14629
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Use the droop screws to take out a tiny amount of down travel then your not putting any stress on the shock ends, i've never had a problem with them using this method
Not sure what you are trying to say here. I'm looking for longer shock ends so than I can extend the length. Using the droop screws would do the opposite actually.
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Old 06-04-2014, 09:51 PM   #14630
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Not sure what you are trying to say here. I'm looking for longer shock ends so than I can extend the length. Using the droop screws would do the opposite actually.
using the droop screws would stop them pulling out though
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Old 06-04-2014, 09:53 PM   #14631
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i run the 410 wing mount in the lower hole which meant the wing was just higher than the v1 tower and seemed to work well! I have just built my v2 tonight standard to try it
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Old 06-04-2014, 09:56 PM   #14632
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Use the droop screws to take out a tiny amount of down travel then your not putting any stress on the shock ends, i've never had a problem with them using this method
The tec4 traxxas ends work beautifully with the durango ball. They dont have all of the axial play but the ball can spin freely. The ends screw on nice and tight. Also just a few bucks for the ends , you arent forced to buy a whole sprue ($$$) of dimec parts that you will never use just for the two ends. I also gave a bit of turns on the droop screws, just enough to contact the chassis.
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Old 06-04-2014, 10:58 PM   #14633
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using the droop screws would stop them pulling out though
You don't' seem to understand what I am doing here. I'm trying to lengthen the shock. Not make it shorter with droop.

Secondly, the plastic end is designed to screw all the way onto the shaft, and if you unthread them to make them longer like I am doing, you aren't using much of the threads (the threads don't' start until you are deeper in the hole). This is why I am looking for a longer shock end.
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Old 06-04-2014, 11:01 PM   #14634
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The tec4 traxxas ends work beautifully with the durango ball. They dont have all of the axial play but the ball can spin freely. The ends screw on nice and tight. Also just a few bucks for the ends , you arent forced to buy a whole sprue ($$$) of dimec parts that you will never use just for the two ends. I also gave a bit of turns on the droop screws, just enough to contact the chassis.
Can you post a link to these ends? I don't seem to find much in google.
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Old 06-05-2014, 06:18 AM   #14635
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Can you post a link to these ends? I don't seem to find much in google.
Traxxas 5469. They arent any longer. Just thicker and snap on the balls good.
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Old 06-05-2014, 06:39 PM   #14636
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You don't' seem to understand what I am doing here. I'm trying to lengthen the shock. Not make it shorter with droop.

Secondly, the plastic end is designed to screw all the way onto the shaft, and if you unthread them to make them longer like I am doing, you aren't using much of the threads (the threads don't' start until you are deeper in the hole). This is why I am looking for a longer shock end.
Well no i didnt realise you were trying to make your shocks longer you never said so or i missed that part but why do you need more droop than normal
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Old 06-05-2014, 07:30 PM   #14637
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Just orders a v2, anything I need to get upfront?
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Old 06-05-2014, 08:43 PM   #14638
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Just orders a v2, anything I need to get upfront?
Get 1 & 2 mm metal spacers for the ball stud spacers and alum rear hex's. The plastic spacers in the kit are worthless. I just run 3mm washers. Other than that, ive beat the hell out of mine and nothing has broken out side of pulling the rear shock end. The kit says to make the droop screws flush with the arm. I suggest just enough out of the bottom to raise barely touch the chassis. New gearbox case is solid as are the front arms.
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Old 06-05-2014, 09:15 PM   #14639
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You don't' seem to understand what I am doing here. I'm trying to lengthen the shock. Not make it shorter with droop.

Secondly, the plastic end is designed to screw all the way onto the shaft, and if you unthread them to make them longer like I am doing, you aren't using much of the threads (the threads don't' start until you are deeper in the hole). This is why I am looking for a longer shock end.
I also never saw u saying you wanted longer shocks sorry about that! there is no point making the shocks to long on a car that has droop stoppers as even if there is no droop screw in, the arm hits the chassis, if your shock is much longer and the arm is hitting the chassis that means that the piston wont be at the bottom when at full extension and you wont get as much up travel! you cant get anymore droop unless you cut the lugs of the bulkhead, and you shouldnt need any more?
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Old 06-06-2014, 08:54 AM   #14640
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I took some pics of the standard wing mounts with the Tresrey CF tower. The tower is pretty "far up" in the airstream with the regular setup…I'm going to try the 410 mounts to see if I can raise it up a bit.

@av4625: My fault. I haven't been sleeping well and posting in the middle of the night! SORRY! I am experimenting with longer shocks on my 410 and I mixed up the threads. I don't think I need it on the 210. Especially with the Tresrey CF lower towers.
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Durango DEX210 Thread-img_0260.jpg   Durango DEX210 Thread-img_0261.jpg  
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