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Old 05-13-2014, 07:35 PM   #14461
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Thanks for the compliment on the paint. Not one of my favorites, but it still looks good going around the track.

This was a V1, converted to a V2. I used the original side pods with the RDRP +11 chassis, RDRP LRC blocks modded to use TYPE B parts, and RDRP rack, RDRP +8 wing mount.
TD long outdrives, TD rear hub carriers
The red is from Tresrey;
B4 front and rear 12mm hex, rear hex shaved 1.2mm from backside to not crush the bearing race. On the front I used b4.1 steering block with proline(associated) front axle and bearings, and Atomik(team C) front steering block, motor plate, steering bellcranks, chassis buttons, shock cups, collars. MOS bodies w TD nitride shock shafts. Front shocks are limited by 2.5mm. I think the MOS shock is a tick shorter than V1 bodies. It worked perfectly.
Cream front brass weight under the servo.
TD alloy shock caps modified with a 2/56 screw.
TLR 12mm shock bladders.TLR white rear spring, TLR red spring front.
I dont remeber the pistons, but they are the TD tapered pistons.

As you can see not one thing was left untouched.
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Old 05-13-2014, 07:52 PM   #14462
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Old 05-14-2014, 01:43 AM   #14463
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It seems i need to rebuild my shocks as they seem to pack up real fast even with 4x1.5 pistons, what are the purple and blue orings like, amain and tower seem to be out of the regular ones? Is there another brand of oring that would suit?
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Old 05-14-2014, 08:00 AM   #14464
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got my daughters car together. She is running a 21.5 motor and GT 2.0 Pro ESC. I pretty much mounted everything in the way the manual says as its the full size pack she is using, 7200mah. What was interesting is that when I was thinking inline for the ESC, it appears that the top deck part where the body mount is, they have it setup from what I recall on assembly that there is a screw that comes from below on the two bulkhead points that join together. Wonder if drilling a hole in the chassis to get to that point will work better when I try inline with my vehicle since I am running shorties.

Avid slipper at 69T, 31T pinion actually felt pretty good in a blinky setup.

If anyone has some current inline shorty lipo picks with the Viper VTX line of ESCs, would love to see how you guys went on that.
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Old 05-14-2014, 08:17 AM   #14465
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
got my daughters car together. She is running a 21.5 motor and GT 2.0 Pro ESC. I pretty much mounted everything in the way the manual says as its the full size pack she is using, 7200mah. What was interesting is that when I was thinking inline for the ESC, it appears that the top deck part where the body mount is, they have it setup from what I recall on assembly that there is a screw that comes from below on the two bulkhead points that join together. Wonder if drilling a hole in the chassis to get to that point will work better when I try inline with my vehicle since I am running shorties.

Avid slipper at 69T, 31T pinion actually felt pretty good in a blinky setup.

If anyone has some current inline shorty lipo picks with the Viper VTX line of ESCs, would love to see how you guys went on that.
Check out the type B rear brace #TD320270and top deck set #TD320269, with those new pieces its just 6 screws to remove the top brace instead of having to remove the entire bracing assembly.
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Old 05-14-2014, 08:24 AM   #14466
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Check out the type B rear brace #TD320270and top deck set #TD320269, with those new pieces its just 6 screws to remove the top brace instead of having to remove the entire bracing assembly.
thanks, i think my top brace is the old style since the holes I am seeing from memory here, one isn't a "screw down" setup. I'll have to give that a look.
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Old 05-14-2014, 02:41 PM   #14467
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I've just got myself a RDRP +11mm chassis, which bodyshell is best to use with it? I see that there is a +8mm body, but no +11mm?
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Old 05-14-2014, 05:52 PM   #14468
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In my opinion the Jconcepts finnisher for the 210. With some cleaver cutting at the front you can add those extra couple mm.
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Old 05-14-2014, 06:28 PM   #14469
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I've just got myself a RDRP +11mm chassis, which bodyshell is best to use with it? I see that there is a +8mm body, but no +11mm?
I was wondering the same too....probably need to contact RDRP for a definite answer.
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Old 05-14-2014, 07:55 PM   #14470
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I'm using the FINNISHER and I have the +11 chassis. I originally had the body mounted with my short chassis and it actually fits pretty well with the longer setup if you use velcro in the front. You have a bit of a gap of course but it's not bad. I'll post pictures in a bit...
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Old 05-14-2014, 11:15 PM   #14471
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Durango DEX210 Thread-imag0024.jpg

Durango DEX210 Thread-imag0025.jpg

Here is what mine looks like with a body cutout for the original chassis. This is on the +11. Body's held on by Velcro.
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Old 05-15-2014, 12:29 AM   #14472
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Thanks, I will have a looking the JConcepts bodyshell. I will give RDRP a message and see what they suggest too

Liam
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Old 05-15-2014, 12:57 AM   #14473
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Here is my method for adding the extra mm like I suggested. This is with a +10 chassis though.
Attached Thumbnails
Durango DEX210 Thread-jcf-finnisher.jpg  
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Old 05-15-2014, 01:29 AM   #14474
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Hi gents.
Looking for build tips, set up tips and car setup specs for a V2 brand new, unbuilt. Hoping to run it in 17.5 blinky high grip carpet, in MM.

WILL NOT SEE DIRT.

Can't fathom reading 965 pages in thread to get all the distilled ideas.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

D.
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Old 05-15-2014, 08:59 AM   #14475
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question, does everyone pretty much use velcro to the secure the body?

I noticed when putting the +8mm body on my daughters vehicle the location for the front clip is a real pain to get to. I can't imagine her having to do this so I am going t put velcro on but curious if I am doing something wrong.

This is the dimec +8mm chassis.
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