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Old 01-31-2014, 12:07 PM   #13561
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If you have the plug in lipo, the bullets are actually the safest.
If you are using the charging lead that came with the lipo, that can be plugged into the lipo backwards by accident. Then the plug in between the lipo and ESC (Dean's EC5 or whatever) plugs in just as it always doss... but your backwards and your ESC just went up in smoke.

If you use bullet plugs from the lipo and wire straight to the ESC, if your ESC is mounted to the side of the pack... and your wires are cut to length to just reach the holes in the lipo with a little slack for chassis flex, you can not possibly plug in backwards without ripping the ESC off the chassis to get the shorter wire to the wrong hole.
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Old 01-31-2014, 12:21 PM   #13562
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flame56mx View Post
I'd love to, weather up here has been very arctic like this year, and could really use a break from it. Unfortunately I work outdoors, so its been crimping my funds as of late. We have the same thing up here in Minnesota, 6 Kyosho and 5-6 AE factory drivers make up a big part of the buggy class, few TLR and my Durango. The 4wd mod class has a few 410's sprinkled in there.
In mm4 my shorty liked to be to the rear with the +8 composite chassis. I never really used the kit chassis in MM4. Rm3 was the opposite, way up front, either chassis appeared to end up that way. I sold my V1, and am waiting on the new model, but I would assume this wont change.
So basically you never liked the shorter chassis? in any config?

I haven't had a chance to try anything else besides my stock alum (short)yet as I wasn't really a fan of the composite chassis. I was considering the Exotek CF chassis or the RDRP +11 alum but since the V2 seems to have a longer alum chassis so I will probably just pick one up when they start shipping.

Which shorty packs do you use? My SMC seems to be great so far! I have the Turnigy Nano techs saddles for my 410….
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Old 01-31-2014, 01:50 PM   #13563
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Just ordered the RDRP +11mm chassies. Is it worth to get the RDRP LRC-kit or is it the same as TD's LRC RR-hanger? TD is much cheaper since there are no LRC RF-hangers in that kit. Are the RDRP RF hangers made for LRC?

More money to get the complete RDRP kit or less money to get the TD RR-hanger? Is the TD hanger even compatbile with the RDRP chassies?

Thanks!
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Old 01-31-2014, 02:00 PM   #13564
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fq06 View Post
If you have the plug in lipo, the bullets are actually the safest.
If you are using the charging lead that came with the lipo, that can be plugged into the lipo backwards by accident. Then the plug in between the lipo and ESC (Dean's EC5 or whatever) plugs in just as it always doss... but your backwards and your ESC just went up in smoke.

If you use bullet plugs from the lipo and wire straight to the ESC, if your ESC is mounted to the side of the pack... and your wires are cut to length to just reach the holes in the lipo with a little slack for chassis flex, you can not possibly plug in backwards without ripping the ESC off the chassis to get the shorter wire to the wrong hole.
I can see it now, I didn't think about the connectors go wrong... Yo are right... I will use your method with the battery wires and all black ones

About the servo, I think the D771 looks quite good... I saw some testings on it and it looks pretty good... Just can't figure out what happened with the stock one... So little use...
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Old 01-31-2014, 02:23 PM   #13565
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 13Maschine View Post
So basically you never liked the shorter chassis? in any config?

I haven't had a chance to try anything else besides my stock alum (short)yet as I wasn't really a fan of the composite chassis. I was considering the Exotek CF chassis or the RDRP +11 alum but since the V2 seems to have a longer alum chassis so I will probably just pick one up when they start shipping.

Which shorty packs do you use? My SMC seems to be great so far! I have the Turnigy Nano techs saddles for my 410….
Its (shorter chassis) good, but depending on track layout it can get a more nervous feel than the Dimec +8. Our track has a little less bite, and its not extremely tight, so the Dimec+8 seems IMO to let the car relax more, and probably flex also. I especially noticed the difference when I changed to the Dimec in mid motor configuration, but I noticed it less with the dimec20 chassis. I did try for a short time an aluminum +8 made by a member on here, but only ran it in rm3, and I didnt get to tinker much with it before the end of last seasons indoor.

Last edited by flame56mx; 01-31-2014 at 04:12 PM.
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Old 01-31-2014, 02:59 PM   #13566
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovethebuggy View Post
I can see it now, I didn't think about the connectors go wrong... Yo are right... I will use your method with the battery wires and all black ones

About the servo, I think the D771 looks quite good... I saw some testings on it and it looks pretty good... Just can't figure out what happened with the stock one... So little use...
I haven't heard much on that servo. Seen it online and a few people that said it is great and I think one that said it burnt up in a short amount of time. But that's what you could expect from a $17 servo. Spend $100+ on a servo and you expect no problems.
But at $17 its not a big loss if it doesn't work long and if it does, that's a huge win because performance does look good. Maybe buy 2 to be safe at that price.

What online stores are in or near your country?

Your servo motor died because you don't have your radio's end points set correctly and the servo is trying to push the steering further than mechanically possible (probably it) or your car hit something and the force transfered from the wheels to the servo breaking teeth on the gears.
You would hear a crunchy sound though if it was the gears and the heat you are describing sounds like the servo motor is the problem.
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Old 01-31-2014, 03:35 PM   #13567
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aland View Post
Just ordered the RDRP +11mm chassies. Is it worth to get the RDRP LRC-kit or is it the same as TD's LRC RR-hanger? TD is much cheaper since there are no LRC RF-hangers in that kit. Are the RDRP RF hangers made for LRC?

More money to get the complete RDRP kit or less money to get the TD RR-hanger? Is the TD hanger even compatbile with the RDRP chassies?

Thanks!
Has anyone tried this guy? I don't think it will be as low as the LRC stuff but is nice to be able to "quick change"

http://www.exotekracing.com/dex210-r...ith-shims-lrc/
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Old 01-31-2014, 03:37 PM   #13568
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Speaking of chassis configs….Has anyone tried the CF chassis for the DEX210 and wants to comment on them? I know there has been some discussion but I wanted to revisit this idea….Thanks!
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Old 01-31-2014, 03:41 PM   #13569
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fq06 View Post
I haven't heard much on that servo. Seen it online and a few people that said it is great and I think one that said it burnt up in a short amount of time. But that's what you could expect from a $17 servo. Spend $100+ on a servo and you expect no problems.
But at $17 its not a big loss if it doesn't work long and if it does, that's a huge win because performance does look good. Maybe buy 2 to be safe at that price.

What online stores are in or near your country?

Your servo motor died because you don't have your radio's end points set correctly and the servo is trying to push the steering further than mechanically possible (probably it) or your car hit something and the force transfered from the wheels to the servo breaking teeth on the gears.
You would hear a crunchy sound though if it was the gears and the heat you are describing sounds like the servo motor is the problem.
I can't remember if I hit something... No grinding sound... It was "working" normal until it got crazy, after that I checked inside my house to see what's going on and some smoke was going through a side...

I don't have any store close to me... But I buy all my stuff in US and it takes quite a bit to get here, but is the only way I can get these things...
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Old 01-31-2014, 04:09 PM   #13570
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Originally Posted by fredswain View Post
I thought I took pictures of it but I only found one. It was of the bottom showing how I did the nose cut from the original chassis. Only the base chassis was done at this time. I'll try to get more pics later but for now this is all I've got.
Can't wait to see more shots of it. It looks very well made. Any reason for doing a v cut on the front? I did a straight cut on mine simply because it was easier and because I didn't want to split up the steering rack mounting points between the two chassis pieces. The black looks pretty slick.
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Old 01-31-2014, 05:49 PM   #13571
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 13Maschine View Post
Has anyone tried this guy? I don't think it will be as low as the LRC stuff but is nice to be able to "quick change"

http://www.exotekracing.com/dex210-r...ith-shims-lrc/
I'll be ordering those and the LRC RR block this weekend for Motorama. I think its as good or better of a system as the RDRC kit.
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Old 01-31-2014, 06:15 PM   #13572
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Originally Posted by RC10Nick View Post
Can't wait to see more shots of it. It looks very well made. Any reason for doing a v cut on the front? I did a straight cut on mine simply because it was easier and because I didn't want to split up the steering rack mounting points between the two chassis pieces. The black looks pretty slick.
I did the v cut specifically to mount the steering rack on both pieces. I wanted the little extra amount of support between the two pieces. The extra middle hole is the original rear steering rack hole location. I used it as a reference. I had the original chassis bolted and double stick taped to the plate. I drilled the hole locations through the originals on the drill press. Then I used my pin router to cut out the plate using the original chassis as the router guide. Once I got to the front, I drilled a new center hole forward 8mm and then used it as a guide for the other holes. There is another piece that makes up the bracing and battery locators much like is done on the Centro.
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Old 01-31-2014, 06:30 PM   #13573
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fq06 View Post
I haven't heard much on that servo. Seen it online and a few people that said it is great and I think one that said it burnt up in a short amount of time. But that's what you could expect from a $17 servo. Spend $100+ on a servo and you expect no problems.
But at $17 its not a big loss if it doesn't work long and if it does, that's a huge win because performance does look good. Maybe buy 2 to be safe at that price.

What online stores are in or near your country?

Your servo motor died because you don't have your radio's end points set correctly and the servo is trying to push the steering further than mechanically possible (probably it) or your car hit something and the force transfered from the wheels to the servo breaking teeth on the gears.
You would hear a crunchy sound though if it was the gears and the heat you are describing sounds like the servo motor is the problem.
I run the d771 on my DESC210 and before that a xxx-sct. I love it. It's been a year and I run about every weekend and to a few larger races that are a couple days long. It hasn't failed me. In fact I bought two more for the DEX210 and Dest210 that I have coming I like them that much.
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Old 01-31-2014, 06:39 PM   #13574
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I run the d771 on my DESC210 and before that a xxx-sct. I love it. It's been a year and I run about every weekend and to a few larger races that are a couple days long. It hasn't failed me. In fact I bought two more for the DEX210 and Dest210 that I have coming I like them that much.
Thats pretty nice to hear! I guess it will be my servo of choice GNC (good, nice and cheap)
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Old 01-31-2014, 08:28 PM   #13575
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Originally Posted by 13Maschine View Post
Speaking of chassis configs….Has anyone tried the CF chassis for the DEX210 and wants to comment on them? I know there has been some discussion but I wanted to revisit this idea….Thanks!
I ran the 8-racing CF chassis for a season then it broke. I loved the chassis but it was fragile. I may get the exotek chassis.
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