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Old 10-28-2011, 12:17 PM   #1321
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for shocks I use the losi shock gauge to get them the same length. But the droop thing is blocks under the chassis with tires off then use droop gauge to measure droop. this way it can be consistent on the setup sheets. This is the way I have done it for years on my touring cars and 1/8 buggies
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Old 10-28-2011, 12:21 PM   #1322
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for shocks I use the losi shock gauge to get them the same length. But the droop thing is blocks under the chassis with tires off then use droop gauge to measure droop. this way it can be consistent on the setup sheets. This is the way I have done it for years on my touring cars and 1/8 buggies
That doesn't measure droop, that is your "downstop" setting, which is something else entirely. It's a common misconception and the two are commonly confused between each other.
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Old 10-28-2011, 12:47 PM   #1323
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Back from lunch test and I am now 95% there.

Lighter front oil and layed down shocks was a big improvement. I wanted to stand up the rears (currently middle on the tower and outer on the arms) but ran out of time. I think that will get me there though.

The one thing that is odd, and maybe others can chime in, I am running scrubs at my track and they are (were- before the changes) better than a rib. Historically ribs have been good here. Does this car like a treaded front over a rib?

Of course this could all be junk with my new changes...need longer lunches for more testing!
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Old 10-28-2011, 12:50 PM   #1324
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Back from lunch test and I am now 95% there.

Lighter front oil and layed down shocks was a big improvement. I wanted to stand up the rears (currently middle on the tower and outer on the arms) but ran out of time. I think that will get me there though.

The one thing that is odd, and maybe others can chime in, I am running scrubs at my track and they are (were- before the changes) better than a rib. Historically ribs have been good here. Does this car like a treaded front over a rib?

Of course this could all be junk with my new changes...need longer lunches for more testing!
move your shocks to middle hole on the arm. Outside on the arm generally will help the car "square up" coming out of a corner better, exactly the opposite of what your looking for.

FWIW I've only run AKA rebars on the front of my car and for my track they are DIALED.
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Old 10-28-2011, 12:53 PM   #1325
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That doesn't measure droop, that is your "downstop" setting, which is something else entirely. It's a common misconception and the two are commonly confused between each other.
I guess I was measuring downstop?

How is downstop different from droop? To get more or less droop, you would be adjusting downstop?

In my case, adjusting the downstop is what I am trying to do to keep the tires on the ground (stop the amount of weight transfer to the rear). Lessening the droop. So I am using the downstop to adjust the limit of droop. Right?

EDIT -
OK, so I was measuring my droop correctly a few posts back. Sitting at ride height, measure the lift till the wheels are a hair away from leaving the surface. That is your droop. Adjust downstops to limit droop.

Last edited by sparkwraps; 10-28-2011 at 01:06 PM. Reason: googled the interweb machine
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Old 10-28-2011, 02:01 PM   #1326
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I guess I was measuring downstop?
OK, so I was measuring my droop correctly a few posts back. Sitting at ride height, measure the lift till the wheels are a hair away from leaving the surface. That is your droop. Adjust downstops to limit droop.
Not quite! Although it would seem that way..You adjust your "droop screws", and "ride height" to limit droop. Again back to my hypothetical situation, here is an example of how adjusting your downstop settings doesn't actually mean droop:

Lets say you put your car up on the block, and you set your downstops to 9 or something. So then you put your wheels back on the car and set the car back down onto a flat surface. Lets say your ride height is 25mm and your droop (chassis rise) is 10. THEN, lets say you want to lower the car a bit for other setup reasons, so you drop it to 22mm. You will no longer have 10mm of droop, you will have 13. To lower the car AND keep the same droop, you have to re-adjust your droop screws. So since you have to do that ANYWAY... starting on the blocks with the wheels off the car is pointless. You might as well just do this, every time:

1. set ride height
2. measure droop
3. change droop screws to get desired droop

There is no reason to put another step in there for downstops.

Here is another example. Lets say you do the above... but instead of setting your ride height at 25mm (or whatever) you bring your shock collars ALL the way down so your car is riding all the way up. Even though you have set your downstops, because your car is now sitting at max ride height, your droop is 0 because the tires will lift off the ground instantly when the chassis moves up.

I hope that makes sense...? o.0
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Last edited by Cpt.America; 10-28-2011 at 02:22 PM.
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Old 10-28-2011, 03:32 PM   #1327
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so if you put a 30mm block under the chassis and with tires off and the collars all the way down you say there is 0 droop. If you use a droop guage that comes with the 30mm droop blocks it would be at like -15 not 0. look at xray setup sheets for the 808.
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Old 10-28-2011, 05:18 PM   #1328
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so if you put a 30mm block under the chassis and with tires off and the collars all the way down you say there is 0 droop. If you use a droop guage that comes with the 30mm droop blocks it would be at like -15 not 0. look at xray setup sheets for the 808.
That's only if the car sags 15mm once you set it on the table with the tires on it ready to go. If you set the car down, and you have your collars all the way down so that the ride height is maxed out... yes, your droop would be 0.

Ride height in "ready to race" trim is exactly 1/2 of the factors that determine your droop... so you CANNOT set droop by only sitting the car on blocks and looking at a "downstop gauge". They are two different things.

It's ok if you measure it your way.. im just trying to tell you that in doing so, you aren't actually measuring droop, you are measuring something else. So when a guy like me comes on here and says "im running 9mm of droop", what im talking about is the difference between ride height, and the tires lifting off the ground....

Moving back to the 210 please!
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Last edited by Cpt.America; 10-28-2011 at 05:34 PM.
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Old 10-28-2011, 05:35 PM   #1329
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Ill measure my way i guess. The droop blocks I got must be wrong and be called downstop blocks. Oh well.
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Old 10-28-2011, 07:24 PM   #1330
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So where is the post that mentions that the manual shows the wrong orientation of the diff in the gearbox for RM3 and one of the MM configs. the gear diff nut is on the wrong side, so when you apply power the diff screw unscrews itself. I'm a noob with ball diffs so everyone else probably caught this. Even the updated online manual is wrong.

Nonetheless, can't wait to fix it and finally run it tomorrow
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Old 10-28-2011, 08:34 PM   #1331
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All right guys. I have bit the bullet and added a 210 to the stable!!!!! I am going to ask some questions that I know have already been asked on here but I did not have time to read all the pages.

1. What gearing would be a good place to start? I will be running a Tekin RS Pro and a 13.5 Redline to start.

2. What pitch do the 210's use for the pinion? 48p?

3. I usually run on a large track, and a smaller track. Surface sometimes has moisture and a lot of grip, sometimes it can be dry, dusty a little slick. I think I understand the difference between RM3 and RM4 and am guessing RM3 will be the better way to go?

4. I like a lot of steering but want to start in the middle with the setup. Good overall steering with good on-power steering too, the middle road. Who's setup are a lot of people running in this buggy? I am guessing I should buy the Durango springs kit with it too?


Any help is much appreciated!!!!
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Old 10-28-2011, 09:17 PM   #1332
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Yes I will be at Leisure Hours this Saturday!

And I want everyone to know....even though I am sponsored by Team Durango I will always give my fair and honest opinion.....if the set up needed work I would honestly just say that it needed work.....feel free to pm or contact me any time.

I have owned every single 4x4 sct and even had two of most of them, several buggy's and love my DESC410r and DEX210 and feel privileged to be a part of Team Durango.

I have done many reviews and will have lots of useful information posted on my website very soon.

Hey Bri see you tomorrow.
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Old 10-28-2011, 09:22 PM   #1333
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Jason - will you be racing at LH on Saturday. Would like to check out your 210.
Yeah ray I'll be there...but Malone has one and his is just as dialed if not even more so than mine.


See you then.
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Old 10-28-2011, 09:59 PM   #1334
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Yeah ray I'll be there...but Malone has one and his is just as dialed if not even more so than mine.


See you then.
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Old 10-28-2011, 11:58 PM   #1335
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Originally Posted by mjealey View Post
All right guys. I have bit the bullet and added a 210 to the stable!!!!! I am going to ask some questions that I know have already been asked on here but I did not have time to read all the pages.

1. What gearing would be a good place to start? I will be running a Tekin RS Pro and a 13.5 Redline to start.

87/22

2. What pitch do the 210's use for the pinion? 48p?

48 Pitch

3. I usually run on a large track, and a smaller track. Surface sometimes has moisture and a lot of grip, sometimes it can be dry, dusty a little slick. I think I understand the difference between RM3 and RM4 and am guessing RM3 will be the better way to go?

I'd start with RM3

4. I like a lot of steering but want to start in the middle with the setup. Good overall steering with good on-power steering too, the middle road. Who's setup are a lot of people running in this buggy? I am guessing I should buy the Durango springs kit with it too?

Stock set-up is a great place to start. If you don't have 450cst shock oil try out losi 35 I'm pretty sure it's about 425cst



Any help is much appreciated!!!!
I think you'll be surprised how planted the buggy is yet it still has quite a bit of steering and the big bores make missed landings far more forgiving than other buggy's, especially the ones not using big bore shocks. Good Luck !
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