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Old 11-24-2013, 07:24 AM   #12961
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I had given up on my 210 simply because nobody in my state sales them or supports them parts wise. I got tired of having to have a hobby shop in my tool box. However, I put it back together this week and ran it after running a B4.2 for a while and I believe it handles better, jumps smoother, for me anyway it seems to work better. Looking around this morning........nobody is selling 210 kits anymore other than RTR's. Is an update pending or is Durango going back to focusing on 4wd?
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Old 11-24-2013, 08:12 AM   #12962
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Supposed to be a V2 in a month or two...
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Old 11-24-2013, 08:14 AM   #12963
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Originally Posted by Ssilverfz1 View Post
I had given up on my 210 simply because nobody in my state sales them or supports them parts wise. I got tired of having to have a hobby shop in my tool box. However, I put it back together this week and ran it after running a B4.2 for a while and I believe it handles better, jumps smoother, for me anyway it seems to work better. Looking around this morning........nobody is selling 210 kits anymore other than RTR's. Is an update pending or is Durango going back to focusing on 4wd?
A Dex210V2 is rumored to be released in Feb '14..No details other than that so far...I hear you on the parts situation, I have been there before and am currently in that situation where I am my own hobby store. I would still do the same thing if I had a car with LHS support, just because I don't like to rely on someone else to have the parts I need. It does require me to carry more gear to the track unfortunately, so a trade off is there..

Last edited by flame56mx; 11-24-2013 at 09:20 AM.
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Old 11-24-2013, 10:45 AM   #12964
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If I bought a car based solely on what parts the local hobby shops carry, I'd only have Traxxas.
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Old 11-24-2013, 10:54 AM   #12965
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I don't know what they could upgrade to be honest.....not have the ball ends connect to the transmission case, 12mm hex like everybody else, give me the titanium ball and ti rods with the kit, metal shock tops and collars......I run in the rm4 configuration and love the traction and the way the car is in the air. I was thinking about putting the triad slipper kit on it.
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Old 11-24-2013, 10:57 AM   #12966
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If I bought a car based solely on what parts the local hobby shops carry, I'd only have Traxxas.
I hear ya, and rumor has it that the hobby shop at the track is closing....separate owners, he won't be competitive with online pricing so he is not doing well, but he did stock associated and losi parts. Maybe next year it's irrelevant, everybody will have to carry their parts with them. But when you are THE ONLY durango at the track you can't even bum a part from anybody if you had too.
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Old 11-24-2013, 01:54 PM   #12967
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so i need a little help. my buggy when landing a jump will get squirrly. i almost wonder if its a bump steer problem.

basic set up:
35 f with 6 hole 2x3 pistons (i think)
30 rear " "

full size pack move forward
plus 8mm plastic chassis

the car is not easy to drive.
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Old 11-24-2013, 03:16 PM   #12968
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Squirrly like loss of rear traction/too much steering? Move the battery back
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Old 11-24-2013, 03:46 PM   #12969
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Hey Guys!!!
I ran my 210 mid motor last night and had it geared way off so I pulled spur off and re-geared it and it started slipping real super bad so I ended up burying the the slipper and it still slipped then I buried the diff and still slipped.What could it be??? Also how are the tresery aluminum rear hubs? are they durable or should I go with another brand? Should I change the slipper spring to a different one if so which one should I pick up? I have checked my slipper to make sure the spacer is there it is buried coil to coil. Please help..

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Anyone?
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Old 11-24-2013, 04:20 PM   #12970
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Anyone?
Check to see that the slipper spacer isn't worn down. If it is an earlier kit the spacer was not hardened and eventually was worn down so the slipper got loose.
We have been running several of these kits for almost 2yrs and never seen the need for a different spring for the slipper.

Also check that it is your slipper and not your ball diff slipping, the original clip inside the diff has been known to pop out when the diff is tightened.

We use the tresrey alu rear hubs, they are great. They are durable and their design prevents the hex from crushing the bearing and create binding so you can really tighten the wheels down without worrying.
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Old 11-24-2013, 04:22 PM   #12971
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Anyone?
Did you try out a new set of slipper pads? They could've gotten a little oil on them - even oil from your skin will get them slipping. I like the Associated high torque slipper pads. I went to them after having the same issue you were. Might be similar fix.
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Old 11-24-2013, 04:49 PM   #12972
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I don't know what they could upgrade to be honest.....not have the ball ends connect to the transmission case, 12mm hex like everybody else, give me the titanium ball and ti rods with the kit, metal shock tops and collars......I run in the rm4 configuration and love the traction and the way the car is in the air. I was thinking about putting the triad slipper kit on it.
Guessing it's going to have all of the Type B parts and the new DimeX20 rod ends. Maybe the steering link tweaked so you don't have to run 4-5mm of spacing for no bump steer.
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Old 11-24-2013, 07:28 PM   #12973
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Squirrly like loss of rear traction/too much steering? Move the battery back
yea thats what it does,lands and ass end gets all out of shape.
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Old 11-24-2013, 08:00 PM   #12974
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yea thats what it does,lands and ass end gets all out of shape.
In stock form my car first time out had a good bit of bump steering, and would get squirrely when the suspension was compressed. You should be able to bench test yours, and dial it out. Mine has almost no bump steer, and no squirrels..
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Old 11-24-2013, 08:15 PM   #12975
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I was studying the ackerman on the steering and fixed everything at once. I run inline steering with all 4 spacers forward. I run the forward hole on the steering rack. Instead of adding a shim on the inner ball stud end, I lowered the outer. It has a single 1mm shim at that end. That's it. No bump steer and perfect ackerman steering geometry. I run 20 degrees of caster so this setup may not work perfectly for other caster amounts.
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