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Old 10-28-2013, 05:53 PM   #12721
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The dirt track here that was just changed would probably work well with MM4 since there are no sweeping curves. Just swing the rear around and accelerate as fast as possible. MM4 can definitely do that just fine. I'm not sure that I could get MM3 to work well on this layout. Perhaps but is the effort really worth it when the car has other options? Probably not. I know RM3 will work. Since the crowd at this track is mostly 4WD SCT or 1/8 scale, they really setup the new layout to cater to them. It would be hard to make anything else work well on it. The newest tracks popping up here where buggy is still popular are on the opposite side of town from where I live. It figures.
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Old 10-28-2013, 06:01 PM   #12722
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Originally Posted by jaank View Post


I'm using ball studs like this with a logner neck. Like the ones from TC5.
Should I change the amount of shims under the studs from stock?
If you want to keep the same setting as stock, yes you should change. Iti is the height of the ball/link that gives the setting, not the number of shims. With these I believe 1mm less should give about the same setting as stock.

I would also recommend using a short neck version for the inner side of the steering link, you will need to add a lot of shims to the outer one to compensate for bump steer, and you even might be going out of range on that adjustment.
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Old 10-29-2013, 10:50 AM   #12723
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Hey guys ive decided to get this chassis. I like the fact it's ready to run and you dont have to build it.
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Old 10-29-2013, 11:44 AM   #12724
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I have gone to the MM4 setup for my local indoor clay track. I placed as much weight on the back wheels as possible. The handling & jumping is better then the RM3. I have no weight up front and steering is also very good. It does occasionally get a little loose if you drive off of the groove into dusty areas.

I also have a 22-2.0 and the MM4 DEX210 is running as good if not better. How many others are running MM4 in the dirt?
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Old 10-29-2013, 02:47 PM   #12725
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Originally Posted by GregerL View Post
If you want to keep the same setting as stock, yes you should change. Iti is the height of the ball/link that gives the setting, not the number of shims. With these I believe 1mm less should give about the same setting as stock.

I would also recommend using a short neck version for the inner side of the steering link, you will need to add a lot of shims to the outer one to compensate for bump steer, and you even might be going out of range on that adjustment.
But if there are no spacers in stock like at the front c-hubs?
I removed 1mm from anywhere possible and then maybe I'm going to work out the bump-steer.
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Old 10-29-2013, 02:57 PM   #12726
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Hey guys ive decided to get this chassis. I like the fact it's ready to run and you dont have to build it.
You don't have to build the RTR version. The kit is still very much a do it yourself affair. Keep in mind the RTR version does not come with everything necessary to convert to MM and the gear diff only has 2 planetary gears unlike the 4 available in the optional version. The kit version of the car comes with a ball diff.
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Old 10-29-2013, 05:14 PM   #12727
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Originally Posted by fredswain View Post
You don't have to build the RTR version. The kit is still very much a do it yourself affair. Keep in mind the RTR version does not come with everything necessary to convert to MM and the gear diff only has 2 planetary gears unlike the 4 available in the optional version. The kit version of the car comes with a ball diff.
I grabbed a RTR for parts and it came with the parts to make it MM, it also comes with the gear diff,, huge bonus imo. The gear diff w/ 5k is dialed, take it over the ball diff any day... can go a touch lower if you have zero traction.
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Old 10-29-2013, 06:16 PM   #12728
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Only thing you need to buy to convert the RTR to MM4 is the Idler Gear Set, Two 5X10X4MM bearings, Idler Gear Shims, and an Idler Gear Shaft.
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Old 10-30-2013, 09:09 AM   #12729
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Can someone tell me the advantages,of using mm3 vs mm4 what conditions,what differences do you feel with the two,thanks
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Old 10-30-2013, 09:46 AM   #12730
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http://www.team-durango.com/in-the-p...rticle_id=4472

Personally I like the feel of the MM4 on high bite clay with the LRC rear end.
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Old 10-30-2013, 09:51 AM   #12731
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Konich View Post
http://www.team-durango.com/in-the-p...rticle_id=4472

Personally I like the feel of the MM4 on high bite clay with the LRC rear end.
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Old 10-30-2013, 10:14 AM   #12732
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Also I've found that running MM you almost have to have a extended chassis to get it to work well. The standard length I couldn't get to work as well.
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Old 10-30-2013, 05:19 PM   #12733
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpas View Post
I have gone to the MM4 setup for my local indoor clay track. I placed as much weight on the back wheels as possible. The handling & jumping is better then the RM3. I have no weight up front and steering is also very good. It does occasionally get a little loose if you drive off of the groove into dusty areas.

I also have a 22-2.0 and the MM4 DEX210 is running as good if not better. How many others are running MM4 in the dirt?
My son is trying MM4 and we are looking for setup advice. Did you change anything going to MM? Other MMs are working well at our track, the K car, the 22 and the AE Centro, so I'm assuming the 210 can be good also.

Any help is appreciated!
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Old 10-30-2013, 06:49 PM   #12734
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Just rebuilt the ball diff, and just added Acer tungsten balls. They are so smooth. I also made sure to use the concave side of the plate rings against the balls. This is the second one I have done, and they are so smooth and last a long time. I also upgraded my servo to Savox for some more speed.
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Old 10-30-2013, 08:23 PM   #12735
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My rear end breaks free when I get on the power in a tight turn. Should I go with a lighter diff oil - running the RTR gear diff.
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