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Old 09-23-2013, 06:39 AM   #12331
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I ran fairly competitively in stock last year. Running a Hobbywing 120A V2.1 with 508 stock software, Speed Passion V3 MMM 17.5T with 15degree can timing and Venom 3800mah shorty. Gearing was usually 69/34. Car was more or less stock other than ceramic bearings throughout and a CF steering rack. There's no reason this car should be slow in stock if it's in the right hands.
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Old 09-23-2013, 07:37 AM   #12332
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I picked up a used parts roller and it is missing a bit more than what was said it needed to finish. This car is going to be used in our kids program and I would like to try an finish it before our re-opening this weekend of our track.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Over-...44652455636350

I am looking for stock ball studs, I have plenty of tie rods and ends but need balls

also need a layshaft spacer but I will order one today if there is none out there.

I figure with a lot changed over to other balls there might be some out there someone would be willing to donate.

I am starting to find many 210s and will be adding them to the cars we use so if you have extras or parts your not using please let us know.

Thanks
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Old 09-23-2013, 09:53 AM   #12333
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I am looking for stock ball studs, I have plenty of tie rods and ends but need balls
You can have mine. I switched over to ball studs and rod ends from the 22. I sheared one 210 ball stud vertically right through the ball. They are fairly weak compared to the goliath 22 pieces. PM me your address and I'll send them to you minus one of course.
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Old 09-23-2013, 10:10 AM   #12334
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I'd be very interested in getting the guys that are having success with the 210 in the blinky class to chime in. The buggy mod class has virtually disappeared in the last couple months and everyone locally is running blinky. I pulled my 8.5, dropped in a Fantom/Trinty V2 17.5, 69/33 gearing, 40-50 degrees of can timing, 100c shorty pack and drove it in practice and didn't race it because I didn't feel it was going to be competitive. I must have something not dialed right. The platform works great with my mod motor so looking for some feedback. Thanks.
Think I may have found the culprit: Took the gearbox out and the slipper rod that goes through the Avid top shaft for the Triad slipper had a nasty bind. Tried another slipper rod and it was clearly the top shaft. So I swapped that out, rebuilt the entire diff as it did some damage to the thrust bearings and put it back together. By that time it was 11:00 p.m. and I have to work like everyone else so I'll finish it up tonight and test it out. Pretty sure that has to be it.
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Old 09-23-2013, 06:12 PM   #12335
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Well, I have only had 1 transcase ballstud issue in the nearly 2 years of running my 210, and after having the Tresrey piece, and making my own a few times, I wanted less parts to add to the rear end. So, lets have a little vote on this idea. Its a piece of stainless steel that I cut and massaged down, held in by the ballstud, and a cut down droop screw farther back where some remounted their ballstud on a broken case..
Durango DEX210 Thread-pq5gtgg.jpgDurango DEX210 Thread-buxepoy.jpgDurango DEX210 Thread-ekrmmpg.jpg
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Old 09-23-2013, 06:31 PM   #12336
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Originally Posted by knowitall156 View Post
Think I may have found the culprit: Took the gearbox out and the slipper rod that goes through the Avid top shaft for the Triad slipper had a nasty bind. Tried another slipper rod and it was clearly the top shaft. So I swapped that out, rebuilt the entire diff as it did some damage to the thrust bearings and put it back together. By that time it was 11:00 p.m. and I have to work like everyone else so I'll finish it up tonight and test it out. Pretty sure that has to be it.
I have 4 sets of Avid Triads. On one of them, I had this problem, super tight. I bought a needle file set which helped. The most effective thing was an 3mm arm reamer though.

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Well, I have only had 1 transcase ballstud issue in the nearly 2 years of running my 210, and after having the Tresrey piece, and making my own a few times, I wanted less parts to add to the rear end. So, lets have a little vote on this idea. Its a piece of stainless steel that I cut and massaged down, held in by the ballstud, and a cut down droop screw farther back where some remounted their ballstud on a broken case..
Great idea. I'd be interested in that. I run the Tresrey mounts on my RM cars but I don't think it'd work on SC MM because of the bumper.
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Old 09-23-2013, 06:54 PM   #12337
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wish I knew..the top stock guys are running almost 2 seconds a lap faster than the most perfect lap I can put together. Im running 72/32, I was running 69/32 before but struggled in the tight sections. I am swapping out motors this week see if that helps, I am running a Trinity D3 now, I will be running a Shurrspeed this weekend.
I run 72(Avid)/35. I've used a D3.5 but now I'm using a TrakPower. Are you sure it's the motor that's the issue? 2 seconds is a lot. How big is your track? What's a fast lap on your track? Sounds like you're not hitting the right lines to me. I have that problem too.

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While I am only an average skilled racer, I've found to compete in stock racing you need to keep clean, precise lines to compete as you don't have the excess power of mod to make up for wide lines and crashes.
What your local club is like can play a big part in what is required to compete too. Stock racing can be a cheap form of racing or the most expensive, people buying lightweight parts and the current 'best' electronics to squeeze out any advantage they can get.
I'm just about to make a year back after a very long layoff. I'm fighting to be average but I find this to be true. Stock doesn't mean a not as skilled racer.
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Old 09-24-2013, 04:41 AM   #12338
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I have an 8 year old son who wants to get into racing. He will just be starting in the novice class. Is the RTR version suitable to start and we can upgrade as we go?
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Old 09-24-2013, 05:04 AM   #12339
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I have an 8 year old son who wants to get into racing. He will just be starting in the novice class. Is the RTR version suitable to start and we can upgrade as we go?
Which track would you be going to? The RTR is fine to start with but having parts support and getting help from others running the same car is pretty useful.
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Old 09-24-2013, 05:14 AM   #12340
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Which track would you be going to? The RTR is fine to start with but having parts support and getting help from others running the same car is pretty useful.
I just picked up an RTR last friday and had it on the track sunday to start doing 2wd again... I replaced all the electronics with mine, but I can tell you from another user that the steering servo is junk ... I would look at replacing that soon. As for durability, I've beat mine up pretty good and it has held. Overall I am pleased with it so far. I am running the Savox 1258tg, Viper VTX10 with 10.5, and Ko Propo radio and it is a joy to drive.

I'd say the common items are probably the items to get, with the exception of the plastic hinge pin blocks should you choose to stay with them. So:

A-Arms
Rear Hinge Pin Blocks
Spur Gears

Also only other change I made was put 37.5F/35R shock oil for the time being.
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Old 09-24-2013, 05:53 AM   #12341
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I just picked up an RTR last friday and had it on the track sunday to start doing 2wd again... I replaced all the electronics with mine, but I can tell you from another user that the steering servo is junk ... I would look at replacing that soon. As for durability, I've beat mine up pretty good and it has held. Overall I am pleased with it so far. I am running the Savox 1258tg, Viper VTX10 with 10.5, and Ko Propo radio and it is a joy to drive.

I'd say the common items are probably the items to get, with the exception of the plastic hinge pin blocks should you choose to stay with them. So:

A-Arms
Rear Hinge Pin Blocks
Spur Gears

Also only other change I made was put 37.5F/35R shock oil for the time being.
I've never broke an a-arm or a tranny stud in two years, that said the plastic c-hubs are the easiest part to break (keep spares or get aluminum) and I would always replace all the plastic hinge pin holders with aluminum, it will pop with the plastic,, just a matter of time. Another great piece is the exotek front bulkhead w/ the droop pads and a pair of locking hex's. Exotek also has a weight for the front for a good price. One stop shop for the Durango in many cases.
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Old 09-24-2013, 06:17 AM   #12342
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I run 72(Avid)/35. I've used a D3.5 but now I'm using a TrakPower. Are you sure it's the motor that's the issue? 2 seconds is a lot. How big is your track? What's a fast lap on your track? Sounds like you're not hitting the right lines to me. I have that problem too.



I'm just about to make a year back after a very long layoff. I'm fighting to be average but I find this to be true. Stock doesn't mean a not as skilled racer.
I pulled that D3 out last night, I think I overheated it, lots of burned looking areas around the solder on the bottom of the stator. Im not expecting a good motor to drop me a second a lap or anything, but any little bit will help!
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Old 09-24-2013, 07:57 AM   #12343
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http://petitrc.smugmug.com/Hobbies/2...qzmX4&lb=1&s=A

Hupos car... I see a lot of new things coming...

http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=136827
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Old 09-24-2013, 08:05 AM   #12344
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The two most noticeable things that I see are the front arms are now straight with the front shock tower being slightly taller as a result, and the rear shocks mounted behind the arms. I wonder why the straight arms? They result in a slightly higher center of gravity since the shocks are a bit higher up. If anyone wants to try this now all they have to do is run B4 front arms. They are a direct swap.
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Old 09-24-2013, 08:19 AM   #12345
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no dirt on the tires, why don't they just build a concret track and coat it in spray adhesive... no track maintanence needed...

The new tranny is interesting though, the front arms/shock tower won't be too expensive, the tranny is concerning on upgrading
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