ajj

iTrader: (18)

I ran fairly competitively in stock last year. Running a Hobbywing 120A V2.1 with 508 stock software, Speed Passion V3 MMM 17.5T with 15degree can timing and Venom 3800mah shorty. Gearing was usually 69/34. Car was more or less stock other than ceramic bearings throughout and a CF steering rack. There's no reason this car should be slow in stock if it's in the right hands.

EvanAZ

iTrader: (99)

I picked up a used parts roller and it is missing a bit more than what was said it needed to finish. This car is going to be used in our kids program and I would like to try an finish it before our re-opening this weekend of our track.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Over-...44652455636350

I am looking for stock ball studs, I have plenty of tie rods and ends but need balls

also need a layshaft spacer but I will order one today if there is none out there.

I figure with a lot changed over to other balls there might be some out there someone would be willing to donate.

I am starting to find many 210s and will be adding them to the cars we use so if you have extras or parts your not using please let us know.

Thanks

fredswain

iTrader: (1)

You can have mine. I switched over to ball studs and rod ends from the 22. I sheared one 210 ball stud vertically right through the ball. They are fairly weak compared to the goliath 22 pieces. PM me your address and I'll send them to you minus one of course.

knowitall156

iTrader: (10)

Think I may have found the culprit: Took the gearbox out and the slipper rod that goes through the Avid top shaft for the Triad slipper had a nasty bind. Tried another slipper rod and it was clearly the top shaft. So I swapped that out, rebuilt the entire diff as it did some damage to the thrust bearings and put it back together. By that time it was 11:00 p.m. and I have to work like everyone else so I'll finish it up tonight and test it out. Pretty sure that has to be it.

flame56mx

iTrader: (520)

Well, I have only had 1 transcase ballstud issue in the nearly 2 years of running my 210, and after having the Tresrey piece, and making my own a few times, I wanted less parts to add to the rear end. So, lets have a little vote on this idea. Its a piece of stainless steel that I cut and massaged down, held in by the ballstud, and a cut down droop screw farther back where some remounted their ballstud on a broken case..

shagino

iTrader: (57)

I have 4 sets of Avid Triads. On one of them, I had this problem, super tight. I bought a needle file set which helped. The most effective thing was an 3mm arm reamer though.

Great idea. I'd be interested in that. I run the Tresrey mounts on my RM cars but I don't think it'd work on SC MM because of the bumper.

shagino

iTrader: (57)

I run 72(Avid)/35. I've used a D3.5 but now I'm using a TrakPower. Are you sure it's the motor that's the issue? 2 seconds is a lot. How big is your track? What's a fast lap on your track? Sounds like you're not hitting the right lines to me. I have that problem too.

I'm just about to make a year back after a very long layoff. I'm fighting to be average but I find this to be true. Stock doesn't mean a not as skilled racer.

langsky

iTrader: (27)

I have an 8 year old son who wants to get into racing. He will just be starting in the novice class. Is the RTR version suitable to start and we can upgrade as we go?

shagino

iTrader: (57)

Which track would you be going to? The RTR is fine to start with but having parts support and getting help from others running the same car is pretty useful.

Stirex

I just picked up an RTR last friday and had it on the track sunday to start doing 2wd again... I replaced all the electronics with mine, but I can tell you from another user that the steering servo is junk ... I would look at replacing that soon. As for durability, I've beat mine up pretty good and it has held. Overall I am pleased with it so far. I am running the Savox 1258tg, Viper VTX10 with 10.5, and Ko Propo radio and it is a joy to drive.

I'd say the common items are probably the items to get, with the exception of the plastic hinge pin blocks should you choose to stay with them. So:

A-Arms
Rear Hinge Pin Blocks
Spur Gears

Also only other change I made was put 37.5F/35R shock oil for the time being.

8ight-e

iTrader: (58)

I've never broke an a-arm or a tranny stud in two years, that said the plastic c-hubs are the easiest part to break (keep spares or get aluminum) and I would always replace all the plastic hinge pin holders with aluminum, it will pop with the plastic,, just a matter of time. Another great piece is the exotek front bulkhead w/ the droop pads and a pair of locking hex's. Exotek also has a weight for the front for a good price. One stop shop for the Durango in many cases.

fivepointnine

iTrader: (15)

I pulled that D3 out last night, I think I overheated it, lots of burned looking areas around the solder on the bottom of the stator. Im not expecting a good motor to drop me a second a lap or anything, but any little bit will help!

TAMAK

iTrader: (29)

http://petitrc.smugmug.com/Hobbies/2...qzmX4&lb=1&s=A

Hupos car... I see a lot of new things coming...

http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=136827

fredswain

iTrader: (1)

The two most noticeable things that I see are the front arms are now straight with the front shock tower being slightly taller as a result, and the rear shocks mounted behind the arms. I wonder why the straight arms? They result in a slightly higher center of gravity since the shocks are a bit higher up. If anyone wants to try this now all they have to do is run B4 front arms. They are a direct swap.

rcjunky1

iTrader: (10)

no dirt on the tires, why don't they just build a concret track and coat it in spray adhesive... no track maintanence needed...

The new tranny is interesting though, the front arms/shock tower won't be too expensive, the tranny is concerning on upgrading