Durango DEX210 Thread

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  • Question for those that have changed the stock ball cups to something different, did you have any issues with clearance in the rear camberlink near the spur gear? The stock one has a bend in it to clear the gear cover. How can it be replaced with a regular straight ball cup?
    From pics, it looks like mid motor has less problems with clearance, but I'm running rear motor and it looks very tight.
  • Quote: Question for those that have changed the stock ball cups to something different, did you have any issues with clearance in the rear camberlink near the spur gear? The stock one has a bend in it to clear the gear cover. How can it be replaced with a regular straight ball cup?
    From pics, it looks like mid motor has less problems with clearance, but I'm running rear motor and it looks very tight.
    Nope no issues just flip your hubs like I did in the picture.

  • Quote: Nope no issues just flip your hubs like I did in the picture.

    Thanks for the tip. Are those losi 22 turnbuckles and cups?
  • Quote: Thanks for the tip. Are those losi 22 turnbuckles and cups?
    It is the Lunsford kit. Expensive, but I never have to worry about popping a cup.

    I had a small run in with another car just after the landing of a double. The crash broke the carbon fiber steering rack and the ball cup never popped. Some say that is bad, but I like the peace of mind.
  • what in millimeters should the slipper nut be set at roughly?
  • Quote: what in millimeters should the slipper nut be set at roughly?
    Can't do it that way. We don't know your track conditions. That's something that needs to be set at a track and adjusted before the first run.

    Some people like to do the front wheel lift but I like to adjust mines based on slip distance.
  • Quote: what in millimeters should the slipper nut be set at roughly?
    Quote: Can't do it that way. We don't know your track conditions. That's something that needs to be set at a track and adjusted before the first run.

    Some people like to do the front wheel lift but I like to adjust mines based on slip distance.
    I use the front wheel lift method, so I can set it in the pits. I will then do adjustment on the track to fine tune.

    I sugest to start on loose side and go tighter. It is easy to smoke a diff that is not broke in on the bench.
  • What are your opinions on using thread locker on the tiny a** screws that thread into the shock pistons?
  • I'm still having issues with my diff. It still seems to loose and it is almost fully tightend down. Not all the way but pretty close. Driving it on my driveway I can hear it barking slightly. Thought it was the slipper first but I have it cranked down pretty good.. should the diff be this tight?
  • Quote: I'm still having issues with my diff. It still seems to loose and it is almost fully tightend down. Not all the way but pretty close. Driving it on my driveway I can hear it barking slightly. Thought it was the slipper first but I have it cranked down pretty good.. should the diff be this tight?
    did you compress the spring before you installed it?
  • Quote: did you compress the spring before you installed it?
    Yeah I did.
  • heres my 210 body I just finished

  • Quote: Yeah I did.
    hmmm... You may want to take it out, take it apart, clean it all up, flip the diff rings, and try again. Make sure to follow this video to a "t"

    + YouTube Video
    ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
  • Quote: What are your opinions on using thread locker on the tiny a** screws that thread into the shock pistons?
    Get a high quality .050 or 1.3mm wrench. I've stripped that screw before and it sucks when that happens. I like the bleeder screws though. Shock building is a lot more consistent for me that way.
  • How is the durability and how is the handling compared to the team associated b4's? Is one car better than the othe r

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