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Old 08-25-2013, 10:35 AM   #11971
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A heads up on the Tamiya 42214 damper X-rings ( o-rings).
Ive been using them in my DEX210 and they are soooooo much smoother than the original o-rings. The Tamiya shafts are a bit thinner in diameter, but still the x-rings are simply awesome in the Durango shocks
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Old 08-25-2013, 11:50 AM   #11972
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[QUOTE=McD44;12481234]What is your setup?

I just raced my MM4 setup for the first time yesterday on what is essentially beach sand. VERY loose and difficult to drive on especially with a MM car. I am new to 2wd 1/10 scale, I've been driving 1/8 scale and 4x4SC for a few years so my experience and skill with this kind of car is limited. I found that with a MM setup you basically never want to "stab" the throttle. You can enter corners faster though and when you're in the corner you use the throttle to maintain that speed, then roll on the throttle at the very exit of the corner when you're pointing in the direction you want to go. I worked to maintain a higher average speed without ever getting too aggressive with the trigger and it was working pretty well. I qualified 10th in the A-main and finished 6th. I was passing RM cars in the corners like crazy. There was one 180° corner that I had a ton of trouble with. It was extremely dry soft sand at the exit and since you had to slow down so much in the turn I had a tendency to get on it too much and fishtail or spin losing a lot of ground to other drivers. I imagine if I could have kept it together there I would have finished a few places better.

I ran the full 4.5° of rear toe, shocks mounted to the rear. I also find that running a higher inner camber link position on the rear helps with weight transfer keeping the rear a little more planted in corners. Are you running a shorty or full sized pack?[/QUOTE

for some reason RCTECH wont let me upload my pdf setup sheet, my mostly Im running stock setup from the book, stock springs, 27.5/25 wt oil, 4 hole shock pistons (2 holes glued) Ill try the camber link change and also the shock/a-arm flip. I guess I just might need to adjust my driving style for the MM and learn to be really smooth on the throttle! Also Im running full size lipo's.
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Old 08-25-2013, 02:08 PM   #11973
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The full sized lipo might be your biggest problem. Your just not getting enough weight bias to the rear with them. See if you can borrow a shorty from someone to try out if you don't have one. Might make all the difference. Your rear springs are most likely too stiff as well for MM.
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Old 08-25-2013, 02:48 PM   #11974
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McD44 View Post
The full sized lipo might be your biggest problem. Your just not getting enough weight bias to the rear with them. See if you can borrow a shorty from someone to try out if you don't have one. Might make all the difference. Your rear springs are most likely too stiff as well for MM.
cool, Ill see if I can source a shorty lipo and try some softer rear springs (Losi or Durango grey?) I cannot run the shocks on the rear as I get bind at full droop, I will have to drill the arms for droop screws or drill for shock holes to run it that way. I added another 2mm under the inner camber links, we will see if that makes a difference too.
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Old 08-25-2013, 03:02 PM   #11975
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ridgeracer View Post
A heads up on the Tamiya 42214 damper X-rings ( o-rings).
Ive been using them in my DEX210 and they are soooooo much smoother than the original o-rings. The Tamiya shafts are a bit thinner in diameter, but still the x-rings are simply awesome in the Durango shocks
Are they a direct fit, or do you need to use different plastic spacers?
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Old 08-25-2013, 03:33 PM   #11976
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregerL View Post
Are they a direct fit, or do you need to use different plastic spacers?
Direct fit yes
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Old 08-25-2013, 06:09 PM   #11977
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I finally got my hands on a 210 kit. It's my first 10th scale...feels like christmas










PS: I need to shorten the power wires, wasn't sure if i would keep that layout.
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Old 08-25-2013, 07:05 PM   #11978
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Very nice!!!
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Old 08-25-2013, 09:15 PM   #11979
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Aluminium Chassis Feeler thread.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...l#post12483455
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Old 08-26-2013, 07:48 AM   #11980
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ridgeracer View Post
Direct fit yes
Thank you very much, I will need to try those out then.

/Greger
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Old 08-26-2013, 10:14 AM   #11981
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Looking for help once more.
When the outdrive outputs are vertical then the suspension can move freely up.
When the oudrive outputs are horizontal then the suspension cant move as high up due to the dogbone not moving enough in the outdrive. The wierd thing it happens on the both sides, not only the nut side.
I did compress the spring and gave it a brief run on a drill but thats about it with the break in. Any ideas whats the cause of the problem?
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Old 08-26-2013, 10:36 AM   #11982
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I grabbed a slipper spring once and that was my problem count the number of coils on your diff spring should be 3 slipper has 5
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Old 08-26-2013, 12:15 PM   #11983
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The slipper spring has 5 coils so that cant be it.
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Old 08-26-2013, 01:17 PM   #11984
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When you turn the car so the out drives are vertical, do you see the driveshaft move or th diff move? It doesn't make sense that it would matter
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Old 08-26-2013, 01:36 PM   #11985
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Maybe this video explains it better. As you can see when i roll the car and the suspension is fully compressed the car bumps up and down due to the driveshafts not moving enough.
+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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