80LikesDurango DEX210 Thread
07-12-2013, 08:30 PM
07-12-2013, 08:57 PM
Are you sure the thrust washers are oriented properly? The one with the smaller ID goes to the outside against the diff bolt.
Only other thing I can think of is there may be a burr on the diff bolt (really shouldn't be, but it's possible) that is causing the bolt to tighten.
Only other thing I can think of is there may be a burr on the diff bolt (really shouldn't be, but it's possible) that is causing the bolt to tighten.
07-13-2013, 07:27 AM
Are you sure the thrust washers are oriented properly? The one with the smaller ID goes to the outside against the diff bolt.
Only other thing I can think of is there may be a burr on the diff bolt (really shouldn't be, but it's possible) that is causing the bolt to tighten.
Only other thing I can think of is there may be a burr on the diff bolt (really shouldn't be, but it's possible) that is causing the bolt to tighten.
The Exotek chassis, I like the design. But since switching to the Tresrey +10 chassis my car is awesome.
We also have Tresrey castor blocks, lrc blocks, & lower shock spring cups coming.
07-13-2013, 01:48 PM
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Johnny I thought the thrust washer had a different OD.. Either way, the smaller is closest to the head of the bolt.
The Exotek chassis, I like the design. But since switching to the Tresrey +10 chassis my car is awesome.
We also have Tresrey castor blocks, lrc blocks, & lower shock spring cups coming.
The Exotek chassis, I like the design. But since switching to the Tresrey +10 chassis my car is awesome.
We also have Tresrey castor blocks, lrc blocks, & lower shock spring cups coming.
I have run the stock chassis on clay and also a fairly rough track with medium bite and it felt very smooth and easy to drive. I would like to mess around with moving the front axles to 3 or 2 as I'm in the stock postion of back 4mm for my steering blocks. Interested to see how the car acts once I the front axles closer to inline.
07-13-2013, 01:59 PM
When you went to the +10 chassis wouldn't it make the car more numb feeling especially on clay? I can see longer on carpet to help mellow it out some but I tried +10 type chassis on my Tamiya and my B4.1 and both handled worse on the medium to high bite clay tracks.
I have run the stock chassis on clay and also a fairly rough track with medium bite and it felt very smooth and easy to drive. I would like to mess around with moving the front axles to 3 or 2 as I'm in the stock postion of back 4mm for my steering blocks. Interested to see how the car acts once I the front axles closer to inline.
I have run the stock chassis on clay and also a fairly rough track with medium bite and it felt very smooth and easy to drive. I would like to mess around with moving the front axles to 3 or 2 as I'm in the stock postion of back 4mm for my steering blocks. Interested to see how the car acts once I the front axles closer to inline.
On the DEX210 the longer chassis benefits handling characteristics. I run on both clay and dirt. I think lrc blocks are a missing link in my setup.
Also with the 12mm hex conversion on my front axles I am forced to run full trailing front wheels. Also this takes the adjustment away, & the sensitivity making the car more predictable.
07-13-2013, 07:50 PM
any one else finding the standard TD diff balls flat spot quickly ?
I built a brand new diff, started tuning in the slipper on the bench doing it the old way where u hold both wheels and punch the throttle untill front wheels lift 2 inchs and diff slipped for 0.5 a second and now its f****d. feels gritty and doesnt turn well.
I then built another new one and after 2 runs on dirt its gritty and feels terrible.
is there a setting to go off, like lock diff and loosen 1/8 of a turn or something?
JK
I built a brand new diff, started tuning in the slipper on the bench doing it the old way where u hold both wheels and punch the throttle untill front wheels lift 2 inchs and diff slipped for 0.5 a second and now its f****d. feels gritty and doesnt turn well.
I then built another new one and after 2 runs on dirt its gritty and feels terrible.
is there a setting to go off, like lock diff and loosen 1/8 of a turn or something?
JK
07-13-2013, 09:25 PM
any one else finding the standard TD diff balls flat spot quickly ?
I built a brand new diff, started tuning in the slipper on the bench doing it the old way where u hold both wheels and punch the throttle untill front wheels lift 2 inchs and diff slipped for 0.5 a second and now its f****d. feels gritty and doesnt turn well.
I then built another new one and after 2 runs on dirt its gritty and feels terrible.
is there a setting to go off, like lock diff and loosen 1/8 of a turn or something?
JK
I built a brand new diff, started tuning in the slipper on the bench doing it the old way where u hold both wheels and punch the throttle untill front wheels lift 2 inchs and diff slipped for 0.5 a second and now its f****d. feels gritty and doesnt turn well.
I then built another new one and after 2 runs on dirt its gritty and feels terrible.
is there a setting to go off, like lock diff and loosen 1/8 of a turn or something?
JK
07-14-2013, 12:33 AM
any one else finding the standard TD diff balls flat spot quickly ?
I built a brand new diff, started tuning in the slipper on the bench doing it the old way where u hold both wheels and punch the throttle untill front wheels lift 2 inchs and diff slipped for 0.5 a second and now its f****d. feels gritty and doesnt turn well.
I then built another new one and after 2 runs on dirt its gritty and feels terrible.
is there a setting to go off, like lock diff and loosen 1/8 of a turn or something?
JK
I built a brand new diff, started tuning in the slipper on the bench doing it the old way where u hold both wheels and punch the throttle untill front wheels lift 2 inchs and diff slipped for 0.5 a second and now its f****d. feels gritty and doesnt turn well.
I then built another new one and after 2 runs on dirt its gritty and feels terrible.
is there a setting to go off, like lock diff and loosen 1/8 of a turn or something?
JK
If the diff slips at all, it's toast and not worth racing.
07-14-2013, 01:10 AM
[QUOTE=madweazl;
If the diff slips at all, it's toast and not worth racing.[/QUOTE]
wow, if it slips once throw in bin lol. other brands arent like this. balls must be to soft. ran mine today with new diff didnt slip still feels good.
If the diff slips at all, it's toast and not worth racing.[/QUOTE]
wow, if it slips once throw in bin lol. other brands arent like this. balls must be to soft. ran mine today with new diff didnt slip still feels good.
07-14-2013, 02:36 AM
Regardless of manufacturer. Once it slips, it wont ever be smooth again. The flats spots on the balls and groove in the ring will get worse exponentially quicker. At my skill level it isnt going to make a difference but you fast guys sure will. Cheap enough to rebuild and have it operate properly.
07-14-2013, 03:21 AM
Regardless of manufacturer. Once it slips, it wont ever be smooth again. The flats spots on the balls and groove in the ring will get worse exponentially quicker. At my skill level it isnt going to make a difference but you fast guys sure will. Cheap enough to rebuild and have it operate properly.
Bfast kits are unbeatable, using their greases too. My bfast kit is having a b day in my Dex210. .
07-14-2013, 03:45 AM
yeah bfast is good.
07-14-2013, 07:30 AM
I used the Acer tungsten balls from Tower, with new Durango plates and thrust bearings. I went by the rebuild video on the Durango site. I bought 3 packs of ten of the Acer balls to do two sets.
07-15-2013, 06:17 AM
What body are you guys using with the +8 type B chassis. My Jconcepts body does fit but not well. Options?
07-15-2013, 06:48 AM
