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Old 10-24-2011, 03:14 PM   #1111
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Behind the servo to keep as much weight "inline" as possible
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Old 10-24-2011, 03:15 PM   #1112
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Behind the servo to keep as much weight "inline" as possible
Not a bad idea. I'm running MM4 config and prob ditching my SP ESC for an Orion R10
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Old 10-24-2011, 03:44 PM   #1113
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Finding no matter how I set the slipper it slips. I can turn the spur by hand
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Old 10-24-2011, 03:53 PM   #1114
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Finding no matter how I set the slipper it slips. I can turn the spur by hand
Is it built correctly? Tighten it? Take a pic...
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Old 10-24-2011, 04:02 PM   #1115
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Originally Posted by mikeyscott View Post
Finding no matter how I set the slipper it slips. I can turn the spur by hand
You should be able to turn it by hand...have you driven it?
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Old 10-24-2011, 04:04 PM   #1116
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To all with the diff issues on the 210. Have u measured your thrust washers? One is smaller diameter than the other. The smaller one goes in the out drive with the groove facing diff gear then the caged washer then the larger thrust washer with groove facing the caged thrust balls. I just helped a friend build his first ball diff and it turned out like butter. Might have to sell the 22 after looking at his car. For the slipper issues make sure you cleaned the slipper hubs with motor spray as any oil on them will let it slip. If they have slipped a lot you can sand lightly the slipper pads with 400 grit sandpaper to get rid of the glazing and reassemble.
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Old 10-24-2011, 04:46 PM   #1117
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To all with the diff issues on the 210. Have u measured your thrust washers? One is smaller diameter than the other. The smaller one goes in the out drive with the groove facing diff gear then the caged washer then the larger thrust washer with groove facing the caged thrust balls. I just helped a friend build his first ball diff and it turned out like butter. Might have to sell the 22 after looking at his car. For the slipper issues make sure you cleaned the slipper hubs with motor spray as any oil on them will let it slip. If they have slipped a lot you can sand lightly the slipper pads with 400 grit sandpaper to get rid of the glazing and reassemble.
Hi

Many thanks.

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Old 10-24-2011, 04:48 PM   #1118
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You should be able to turn it by hand...have you driven it?
I agree with that, just a question of how easily it turns.

No not yet no electrics in and shell at Jon Miller's
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Old 10-24-2011, 05:35 PM   #1119
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I made it to the track Saturday,had a quick club race then practiced for about 10 hours.I can easily say I'm happy about the car change I made.

The only issue I had was the ballcups but that is now sorted out using Kyosho studs and cups.

I still have a few tweaks I want to try but the car is really good as it sits now.

The track was medium grip clay and I had all the traction I needed even when the track was dry.
The car would just squat and launch out of the corner.

High speed steering was smooth and plentiful, low speed steering was crazy.

The car was very smooth and stable, easy to push it hard and not get out of shape.

My set up

Front
1.2x4 ae 30 wt
Stock spring, shock mounted in and in.
Stock camber link locations and ball stud height.
Spindle height centered, block forward and axle 4mm trailing.
20* Caster

Rear
1.3x3 ae 25
Losi Pink Spring, shock mounted in on top and center on arm.
2mm under inner camber ball stud and outer in location #2
1.5* Anti squat
3.5* Toe in
Hubs forward

Battery back
Weight added
21g each rear corner
14g at both front corners of the battery

Tekin Rs/8.5 combo


Dayton

Last edited by 1armed1; 10-24-2011 at 05:38 PM. Reason: sp
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Old 10-24-2011, 06:20 PM   #1120
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Just found out I need a 3mm nut driver bummer, don't have one
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Old 10-24-2011, 06:32 PM   #1121
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Or is it a 5.0mm outside diameter that fits a 3.0mm nut?
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Old 10-24-2011, 06:41 PM   #1122
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can you comment on the 20* caster and 1.5 kick up? Do you get a lot of steering with the 20* caster and how is you rear traction with the 1.5kickup?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1armed1 View Post
I made it to the track Saturday,had a quick club race then practiced for about 10 hours.I can easily say I'm happy about the car change I made.

The only issue I had was the ballcups but that is now sorted out using Kyosho studs and cups.

I still have a few tweaks I want to try but the car is really good as it sits now.

The track was medium grip clay and I had all the traction I needed even when the track was dry.
The car would just squat and launch out of the corner.

High speed steering was smooth and plentiful, low speed steering was crazy.

The car was very smooth and stable, easy to push it hard and not get out of shape.

My set up

Front
1.2x4 ae 30 wt
Stock spring, shock mounted in and in.
Stock camber link locations and ball stud height.
Spindle height centered, block forward and axle 4mm trailing.
20* Caster

Rear
1.3x3 ae 25
Losi Pink Spring, shock mounted in on top and center on arm.
2mm under inner camber ball stud and outer in location #2
1.5* Anti squat
3.5* Toe in
Hubs forward

Battery back
Weight added
21g each rear corner
14g at both front corners of the battery

Tekin Rs/8.5 combo


Dayton
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Old 10-24-2011, 06:53 PM   #1123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBuc View Post
Or is it a 5.0mm outside diameter that fits a 3.0mm nut?
You need a 5.5 mm nut driver.
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Old 10-24-2011, 06:57 PM   #1124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teeforb View Post
can you comment on the 20* caster and 1.5 kick up? Do you get a lot of steering with the 20* caster and how is you rear traction with the 1.5kickup?
The 20* is a bit smoother at high speeds and aggressive at low speeds.

Traction was not an issue at 1.5* anti squat.
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Old 10-24-2011, 06:57 PM   #1125
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Which fits the 3mm nut
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