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Old 05-28-2013, 09:01 AM   #11221
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What chassis is that.. Is anybody making a +8 alum chassis ?
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Old 05-28-2013, 09:06 AM   #11222
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Originally Posted by Slimsh8t View Post
What chassis is that.. Is anybody making a +8 alum chassis ?
Tresrey +10.

http://www.tresrey-usa.com/tresrey-a...hassis-dex210/

Last edited by shagino; 05-28-2013 at 09:07 AM. Reason: Added link
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Old 05-28-2013, 09:45 AM   #11223
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So I'll be getting a wrap for my buggy done by Mick at rctagz.com, so if anyone wants a wrap for there buggy, we'll have the die lines for the durango +8mm body in the near future. A local has one of his wraps already and it looks like good stuff, I look forward to getting mine in the near future (well, probably end of June as he needs a body to copy and that won't be in for another couple weeks)
Mick just wrapped my 410 shell, and is currently working on a 210 Finnisher body for me. His stuff looks great! I'll post the new team colours when I get the 210 back.
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Old 05-28-2013, 01:40 PM   #11224
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Which 12mm hex I can use for the rear of the DEX210?
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Old 05-28-2013, 03:21 PM   #11225
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Which 12mm hex I can use for the rear of the DEX210?
Buy the SC10 hex adapters and use the thicker of the 4. Sand off a bit of the raised end till the hex sits nicely on the pin without excessively rubbing on the bearing - it isn't quite flush, but pretty close.
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Old 05-28-2013, 04:05 PM   #11226
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Another option:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/11873163-post23.html
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Old 05-28-2013, 07:06 PM   #11227
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If anybody has an extra stock aluminum chassis they want to sell off on the cheap...shoot me a pm. I see they are still readily available...but if you have one sitting around I could use one.
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Old 05-28-2013, 08:16 PM   #11228
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Which 12mm hex I can use for the rear of the DEX210?
I have been using the avid 12mm hexes. This pack has two wide and two narrow hexes another option for track width.
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Old 05-28-2013, 11:14 PM   #11229
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Hello All !!!! My first post. I'm sure this is a repost but really 780 pages??? Moderaters can you say sub folders??

Anywho's not to get off on the wrong foot.

I have a kit verson DEX210 w/Viper VTX10 - 13.5

Outta of the box stock settings, front end pushed so bad it wasn't even fun to drive. shocks 35F 30R, AKA Rebars F/R, standard battery all the way forward, RM3.

Added 27g weight to the front, changed front tires to PL Ribbed. Better, drivable now. Front caster 35* w/ 3mm trailing. Rear is stock. With this change noticed some front tire wear to the inner ribs of tire.

I'm looking for more off power front steering and turning radius. I run a small indoor clay track that can be a little bumpy with marbles as it dries. I also have a large outdoor track with regular dirt which is dusty and slick without water. How different is the setup going to be for the two tracks?

I was pondering the +11 chassis, switching the rear shocks to the rear (Mod).


Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 05-29-2013, 01:19 AM   #11230
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Originally Posted by shagino View Post
its this one
http://www.tresrey-usa.com/copy-of-t...s-dex210-10mm/
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Old 05-29-2013, 01:21 AM   #11231
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Originally Posted by Slimsh8t View Post
What chassis is that.. Is anybody making a +8 alum chassis ?
http://www.tresrey-usa.com/copy-of-t...s-dex210-10mm/
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Old 05-29-2013, 05:33 AM   #11232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hazzmatt1 View Post
Hello All !!!! My first post. I'm sure this is a repost but really 780 pages??? Moderaters can you say sub folders??

Anywho's not to get off on the wrong foot.

I have a kit verson DEX210 w/Viper VTX10 - 13.5

Outta of the box stock settings, front end pushed so bad it wasn't even fun to drive. shocks 35F 30R, AKA Rebars F/R, standard battery all the way forward, RM3.

Added 27g weight to the front, changed front tires to PL Ribbed. Better, drivable now. Front caster 35* w/ 3mm trailing. Rear is stock. With this change noticed some front tire wear to the inner ribs of tire.

I'm looking for more off power front steering and turning radius. I run a small indoor clay track that can be a little bumpy with marbles as it dries. I also have a large outdoor track with regular dirt which is dusty and slick without water. How different is the setup going to be for the two tracks?

I was pondering the +11 chassis, switching the rear shocks to the rear (Mod).


Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
35 degree caster sounds like a lot. i like 25 degree caster for my setup and rdrp makes aluminum zero degree caster inserts for the front c hub for like 6 bucks from amain which gives you overall 25 degree. or take a set of the zero degree rear hub inserts (for toe-in/out) and cut down to size. But the rdrp inserts are def an easier solution. 30 degree caster may help some too perhaps. also Inline axle gives most steering with all 4mm spacers in front of the c hub. can be twitchy with a fast servo but i got used to it and love it. also what springs are you using? with a 4x1.3mm piston setup on all corners dark green Front TD springs can be a good starting point for indoor with your current oil setup. also lowering the front axle by putting both spacers on top of steering knuckles can help with more steering entering corners (off power).

what tracks do you race at if you dont mind? someone may be able to help with setup if they are familiar with your specific track. tire choice sounds like it could be most significant change between the 2 track surfaces.

also when you change caster, you should check your bump steer up front as it will change if you dont add/subtract spacers to outside steering link. more caster requires more spacing between ballstud and knuckle since the increase in caster drops ball stud down some. that could have caused your inner fronts to wear possibly depending on how you were setup or maybe the caster and 3mm trailing changes slightly altered your camber settings so maybe double-check camber with a gauge after making front end adjustments especially when the c hub location changes from trailing axle adjustments.

also, rdrp makes a new steering plate (r2) which changes the position of inner steering link attachment. i havent played with mine much but it may be worth looking into to see how it alters steering radius and off power steering.

also you can increase off-power steering by increasing droop up front.

hopefully some of these suggestions can help you out a bit.

Last edited by glenng; 05-29-2013 at 06:58 AM. Reason: adding another suggestion
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Old 05-29-2013, 09:47 AM   #11233
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I've been using a 4mm lowered rear tower on the buggy, pretty nice. Seems to be more stable over bumps and jumps and IMO easier to drive.
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Old 05-29-2013, 01:17 PM   #11234
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I've been using a 4mm lowered rear tower on the buggy, pretty nice. Seems to be more stable over bumps and jumps and IMO easier to drive.
Is that something you made or purchased? If purchased, do you have details?
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Old 05-29-2013, 02:45 PM   #11235
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Is that something you made or purchased? If purchased, do you have details?
Diggity designs should be making them soon
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