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Old 04-17-2013, 06:22 AM   #10906
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I'm wondering if anyone has a good gear-diff set-up for loose-to-mid traction dirt?

I know I know...I should be running the ball diff (which I have), but I'd like to give the gear-diff a shot as our club moves from indoor carpet to outdoor dirt.

I run Calibers in the rear, ribs in the front, and have yet to configure the geometry.

I ran 1000cst in my diff for the whole of the 7 month indoor season (high-grip carpet), and I expect to initially try 2000cst outdoors but would love to hear ideas!

I will be doing the rear-shock mod, and may try RM4 as traction can be low at the start of the season (later on the track get "sealed" with some, I don't know, glue or something).

Thanks for your time thinking of this!
I never found a setup on a pretty high bite clay track that was faster than my RM3 so going outside only gets looser... RM3 is most likely going to be the fastest there as well w/ the dex210. IF you decide to still go with the RM get that revolution design 28g rear weight, that is your only hope for reasonable traction. That said your gear diff would have worked even better on the carpet with 5k oils.. 1-2k oils is best for outside loose stuff. Personally I run 5k on all mid to high bite indoor, and 2k for outside.
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Old 04-17-2013, 09:31 AM   #10907
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I see, I'll maybe rebuild it and put 1000 back in there. I got the idea of 1K for indoors from a set-up sheet of Jorn Neumann's, seemed good, but I'm new to carpet.
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Old 04-17-2013, 10:20 AM   #10908
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I see, I'll maybe rebuild it and put 1000 back in there. I got the idea of 1K for indoors from a set-up sheet of Jorn Neumann's, seemed good, but I'm new to carpet.
I run MM4 on carpet and as long as it's warm inside 5,000 is good. In the winter sometimes the track area gets cold, and I will then drop to 2,000
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Old 04-17-2013, 10:36 AM   #10909
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I just rebuild my gear diff I'm running on a medium to high bite indoor clay track... Not a big fun of ball diff coming from TC I got spoiled using gear diff... Using CST oil is always a big jump from weight of oil to the next... You guys need to try using losi shock oil you'll be amaze how good gear diff work using shock oil and you can fine tune the gear diff based on the track condition and with losi shock oil have small increments in between weight you can fine tune the gear diff better than using CST oil... I always use 40wt shock oil as my based setup and go from there how much diff action I want to generate traction..
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Old 04-17-2013, 01:29 PM   #10910
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Installed BMANs +8mm chassis last night and will shake it down tonight! Overall the install was good, requires some dremel work, but no big deal. I still have the rear shock mount on my buggy, so I will see what the car does.
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Old 04-17-2013, 01:55 PM   #10911
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I tried 5k then 2k and I'm at 1k now on high bite indoor I couldn't get it to rotate good enough and be reasonable enough in the slick wet areas of the clay
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Old 04-17-2013, 09:08 PM   #10912
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Originally Posted by Jochim_18 View Post
I just rebuild my gear diff I'm running on a medium to high bite indoor clay track... Not a big fun of ball diff coming from TC I got spoiled using gear diff... Using CST oil is always a big jump from weight of oil to the next... You guys need to try using losi shock oil you'll be amaze how good gear diff work using shock oil and you can fine tune the gear diff based on the track condition and with losi shock oil have small increments in between weight you can fine tune the gear diff better than using CST oil... I always use 40wt shock oil as my based setup and go from there how much diff action I want to generate traction..
FYI...

Actually cSt (Centistoke) is not a type of oil, but a world industry standard used in measuring the viscosity of oil. Weight or WT is SAE viscosity grade developed by Society of Automotive Engineers. It is an established numerical code system for grading motor oils according to their viscosity characteristics not their exact cSt.
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Old 04-17-2013, 10:08 PM   #10913
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I run outdoors RM3 with a gear diff w/80wt shock oil on a medium traction dirt track, and it works very well.
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Old 04-17-2013, 10:25 PM   #10914
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hi there

i was trying the gear diff on a loose dirt track. for me oils like 1000- 5000 are too thin. the car rotates too fast if a wheel loose traction.
a thicker oil like 5k-10k helps me to keep to make the car more consistent on a loose track.

if i lock the ball diff, that itīs not slipping, i would compare it with a gear diff with 10k oil.

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Old 04-18-2013, 12:10 PM   #10915
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TAMAK View Post
Installed BMANs +8mm chassis last night and will shake it down tonight! Overall the install was good, requires some dremel work, but no big deal. I still have the rear shock mount on my buggy, so I will see what the car does.
What did you need to dremel? I installed a Bman +8mm chassis on my 210 this week and it fit perfectly.

Btw, Thanks again Bman, Your chassis helped me up my game last night. I found myself in second during the open buggy main until I fell off the fright train.
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Old 04-18-2013, 12:16 PM   #10916
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What did you need to dremel? I installed a Bman +8mm chassis on my 210 this week and it fit perfectly.

Btw, Thanks again Bman, Your chassis helped me up my game last night. I found myself in second during the open buggy main until I fell off the fright train.
You Dremel the notch off the servo bulkhead that is suppose to mate to the side pod, that gives room for the spacer... I guess you could get a pair of dikes and sand it by hand. Also, the instruction sheet that came with the chassis mentioned this... There is no other way to get the spacer to fit without getting rid of the notch..

Here is my full review from last nights run.
Track: Low/Med bit small clay/dirt track. Hobbytown USA LITH
Tires: AKA SS Handlebars
Setup: Same setup I used on my DIMEC20 chassis. As stated in BMANs description of the chassis, it is a little heavier than the DIMEC, but lighter than the stock alloy.

Installation: I received the chassis and I was immediately impressed with the hardcoat finish of the chassis, and the milling was done nicely. I would say the finish is way better than stock. I did however notice on a flat surface a 2mm of gap on the front and back of the chassis W/pods on. Immediately I was disheartened. I waited till I got to work and gave it to my machinist, and he stated that the milling under the battery causes a stress relief in the metal, which then causes it to bow. So he took it to our model shop at work, baked it and then straightened it with an arbor press till it was perfectly flat. BMAN is aware of this and he was extremely professional about it, and this in no way takes away from what he has provided for this car. But I will say, IMO a tweaked off road chassis will throw you off, and it should be flat.

Racing: First off, the DIMEC20 was THE setup for this track, and I was very happy with my car (aside from worrying about chassis break). So going into this chassis, with it being stiffer and heavier I had my doubts. I started the night off on a brand new set of AKA handlebars and the car was hooked! The chassis felt great, and very confident in the corners. Aside from me popping some JCON ball cups I would of had a great night. And I was on pace with my old lap times with the DIMEC20. There was 1 section that requires a "triple" to be fast in mod. And I was able to do it with ease with the dimec, but not so much with the Alloy, I am confident that could be resolved with some setup work.

2nd opinions: I had two buddies drive my car at the end of the final for about 3min each. I will say, my Trakpower batteries did not disappoint! They were very impressed with the car, one guy saying the car was VERY pleasant to drive and just rocks in the sweeper. Also he liked how it felt in the infield that has a double that downsides into a 180 turn / step up. And it was dialed! But I guess this is not exactly inherent of just the +8mm alloy, but the DIMEC was like this as well. Overall, this chassis brings us DEX210 owners a great opportunity to push the car even more, without fear of snapping a chassis.

I will post back with my thoughts of this chassis at S&N Trackside's Shortcourse Showdown layout next week.
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Last edited by TAMAK; 04-18-2013 at 01:01 PM.
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Old 04-18-2013, 12:24 PM   #10917
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Quote:
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You Dremel the notch off the servo bulkhead that is suppose to mate to the side pod, that gives room for the spacer... I guess you could get a pair of dikes and sand it by hand. Also, the instruction sheet that came with the chassis mentioned this... There is no other way to get the spacer to fit without getting rid of the notch..
You have to cut the notch off for all the +8 chassis.
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Old 04-18-2013, 12:40 PM   #10918
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So much grip at SCVRC in California my side pod drags through one of the faster sweepers.

Upside to a good setup is super low lap times.

Down side is the rear tires sidewalls tearing away from the bead.
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Old 04-18-2013, 12:50 PM   #10919
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You have to cut the notch off for all the +8 chassis.
The DIMEC +8mm uses the notch... So your assumption of ALL +8mm chassis is false. I am seeing alot of these comments being posted and i will get a PM from a new guy that asks"Hey, does the DIMEC20 chassis need to be modded to fit my car"?.. All because of that comment you just posted. "I" realize that you meant the alloy +(X) chassis need the notch removed. But maybe the new guy doesn't. I'm just ranting now...
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Old 04-18-2013, 01:50 PM   #10920
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The DIMEC +8mm uses the notch... So your assumption of ALL +8mm chassis is false. I am seeing alot of these comments being posted and i will get a PM from a new guy that asks"Hey, does the DIMEC20 chassis need to be modded to fit my car"?.. All because of that comment you just posted. "I" realize that you meant the alloy +(X) chassis need the notch removed. But maybe the new guy doesn't. I'm just ranting now...
Wow man chill out. You are correct the DIMEC +8 does not need modification. All the aftermarket, 3rd party, NON Durango, alloy, carbon fiber, ect require the mod. There maybe you won't get the noob PM.
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