Durango DEX210 Thread
thanks for trying to help but after a run today i have discovered it was the servo playing up, just decides to stop for a few seconds if it has some force applied to it! Strange thing is my 410 is having the same issue
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (520)
Check the length of the link between ur servo horn and belcrank I just discoverd I had a odd lock when I rebuilt it the other day I have my servo moved 2mm forward so my horn will clear the bellcrank with the horn and servo I'm using but the steering would lock at full turn whenever I turned it by hand ,, the servo horn being short can lock it or to long and it hits belcrank and if the link is to long or short it'll lock also
Tech Addict
iTrader: (9)
Thanks! I'll look into finding some of those outdrives. The drive shaft always seemed to come out when it the suspension was fully compressed. thanks for the part number on the outdrives.
Hey guys like a week or two ago i had a top deck bushing and the screw pull out somehow in the last main i had moved from the b up to the a and won it with the screw out! But i was told to run a longer screw through the bushing and put a nut on the backside by the servo. I have checked this and it will work but i need to know what length mm screw to get so it isn't too short or too long and rub the servo? Thanks guys.
Tech Master
iTrader: (6)
I finally got my DEX-210 to the track and I gotta say, this is hands down the best handling buggy I have driven. Thanks to Raul for the set up.
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (520)
Tech Initiate
Ok, I've done quite a bit of reading on here today and just have a couple questions. I'm really considering buying one of these soon and while for the time being I'll just be running it out in the dirt field by the motorpool I work at (currently in afghanistan), and maybe occasionally gt over to the air force compound and run on their track which is a figure 8. That being said I don't have any clue what it looks like but judging by the appearance of the dirt everywhere else I would assume it is fairly well packed with a loose layer on top. I'm really just looking for some gearing help and the tires won't matter since they will get replaced once i get back from deployment. I'll most likely run the electronics in my 1/10 truggy for now which consists of a MMP esc and a 4600kv 4 pole motor, with a savox steering servo. Based on my experiences with this motor in my XXX-SCT, I imagine this will be way more than enough motor for this little guy, but it's ok since there really isn't anything to hit. I'm thinking of also getting a gear diff just to compare it to the ball diff. Based on past experience I usually prefer the gear diffs and since I have a few different weights I can play with it till i get it to what i like. So what do you guys think. Again I have no knowledge of their track other than it is a figure 8 and has an area of roughly 50-100' in length and maybe 20-40' in width.
Tech Master
iTrader: (6)
I always set up my diffs with the adjustment (screw head) side to the left side. This side usually is easier to access and it allows me to just turn the right side tire to tighten it up.
hitec= garbage. Seriously. I must have bought like 4 or 5 servos from them and they always went wrong on me. Either they plain stop working, or act funny, or they don't find the neutral well. Plus their announced specs are highly optimistic and if you try them side by side with, say, a Ko with similar announced specs you won't believe the difference. Absolute rip-off IMO
Tech Elite
iTrader: (7)
Just mounted my shocks on the rear of the arm. I facebooked Jorn and he states it provides more rear traction. I am testing this out on Wednesday.
Attachment 1042312
Attachment 1042312
Brian
We have some dry clay tracks up this way. I left the same setup on my car from my last time out. My car had plenty of steering but the rear end would step out on power. Just looking for a change and saw Jorns car had this on at EOS... And also noticed this trend throughout the industry for MM, I'll see what it does for RM