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Old 02-27-2013, 08:51 AM
  #10426  
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I just picked up a set of Durango taper pistons (4hole 1.0) and was wondering if you guys had a good starting point on oil & springs.. I run on a small medium traction indoor track..thanks..
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Old 02-27-2013, 10:27 AM
  #10427  
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Originally Posted by Oasis View Post
I just picked up a set of Durango taper pistons (4hole 1.0) and was wondering if you guys had a good starting point on oil & springs.. I run on a small medium traction indoor track..thanks..
i just bought some 4x1.0 with a gmk drill set ,, right now my current is 27.5wt-35wt ae oil 4x1.3 front ..... 22.5wt-27.5wt ae oil 4x1.2 rear oil differs depending on springs your using im dark green all around basically and right now its cold around me so im on lower wt oils now,, im gonna drill the tapers to 1.2 and 1.3 and test for the taper only then later i planed to close 2 holes and drill to 1.6 all around ,, if you can't drill them then i would try 20-22.5wt rear 25-27.5wt front ,, its an experiment to get the oil to pack enough for jumping but rebound fast enough for rough sections or bumps , thats why i wanna try 2 hole it will give the fast rebound with the lighter oils but pack faster with the less holes so best of both worlds without a dual stage piston
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Old 02-27-2013, 12:56 PM
  #10428  
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Originally Posted by ridgeracer View Post
Hi,

Are you using the hardest or softest Dimec chassis?
I don`t understand how people are breaking so much parts.. I`m running indoor now with a 5.5t motor on carpet. Sometimes or about 4-8 times each time I race i will loose grip or hit the curb, doing saltos and hitting the wall at almost full speed, but the 210 survives every time. Same story on the outdoor clay track we have. Really like the 210, but I havent found the best setup for it yet. Going to try the hardest Dimec chassis outside this summer.
I think everyones experience is a bit different. We find the Losi's on our track are indestructible (90% losi there) and I went to another area last night and they say the durangos are the solid trucks and the losi are brittle. We also have a cement outer wall on half of the course which isn't helping.

There seems to be some inconsistency in the manufacturing. For a long time it was ball cups and the C-hubs were fine and then all of a sudden C-hubs broke like crazy.

I am running the regular dimec. The losi was bought as insurance. My fear of snapping the durango effects my driving now and I need to get better.

Cream - I will look at the towers but the breakage problem is pretty spread out over the truck.

I kind of wish my only problems were the ball cups.

This is an interesting truck. It handles well and it takes a bit more to figure it out and get it to work for you but its very worthwhile to take the time to get into this truck. I just need to keep it in one piece.
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Old 02-27-2013, 02:17 PM
  #10429  
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im breaking down the buggy now for the weight ive changed compared to stock ,, ive been very lucky with parts i guess ,, my buggy's box is marked 2009 and since ive bought it i only broke one rear hub from a sliding the back of the rear tire into the wall trying to stop and turn before i hit the wall ,, ive also noticed the plastics they use are brittle and dont have much tolerance compared to other brands
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Old 02-27-2013, 06:36 PM
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(weight) s=stock/kit... s hinge pins 13.7g lungsford kit 8.8g,, s front tower 4 screws 13.3g diggy design cf with 4 screws 17g,, s rear tower 11.8g exotech cf 10.8g,,, s rear front toe block 3.9g i have 30g brass rf,, s steering rack and hardware 12.3g cf rack titanium turnbuckles and hardware 13.8g,, s front suspension block 6.4g revolution design 21g,, i had purple turnbuckles so i dont know the brand but they used kit balls and cups they weigh 14.5g lungsford 50mm turnbuckles and losi steel 4.8mm ball studs 17.8g,, kit alum chassis 105.8g,, countersunk washers are 0.7g for 4,, the standard 3mm lock nuts are 3.2g per 4 not sure about the low profile lock nuts
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Old 02-27-2013, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Cream View Post
Not trying to blatantly advertise but have you tried one of my carbon towers?
http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=104735

also try putting grub screws in the holes you are not using in the c-hubs if that's the section that you are breaking.
Quality stuff here! I have both front and back towers, but use the exotek gold aluminum piece up front for looks
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Old 02-27-2013, 07:43 PM
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My stock shocks are constantly leaking at the rubber seal on the caps. Would someone fill me in on a better way? Is there a way to keep them from leaking?
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Old 02-27-2013, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Chrisg23 View Post
My stock shocks are constantly leaking at the rubber seal on the caps. Would someone fill me in on a better way? Is there a way to keep them from leaking?
get these orings:

http://www.tsrproducts.com/index.php...s100003-c.html
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Old 02-27-2013, 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Raul Garcia View Post
Glenn,
This is a +8 chassis made by RCJUNKY, its the light version. I weighed my car before disassembly and it weighed in without lipo 1210g. After reassembly, with the new chassis, it weighed in @ 1184g. This is considerable. I am test running the chassis today, but I also am eagerly awaiting the Tresrey +10 chassis.

right on Raul. you get all the fun parts! im running the carbon +8 with Bman's braces, i think he used your carbon as the template to make my front skid. the chassis is like bulletproof with the bracing to the point im constantly snapping a-arms now (im a crappy driver, cant lie). better off a 10 dollar a-arm over a 100+ chassis though. but anyway, how did that chassis work out?
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Old 02-27-2013, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Chrisg23 View Post
My stock shocks are constantly leaking at the rubber seal on the caps. Would someone fill me in on a better way? Is there a way to keep them from leaking?
and use green slime around the orings. if its the top cap you are talking about, use an exacto blade to score the inside ridge of cap lightly so the oring can seat itself better.
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Old 02-28-2013, 03:51 AM
  #10436  
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Originally Posted by Chrisg23 View Post
My stock shocks are constantly leaking at the rubber seal on the caps. Would someone fill me in on a better way? Is there a way to keep them from leaking?
Try putting a little chamfer on the leading edge of the thread on the cap, It helps to retain the 'o'ring. I had the same issue with both mine and my Son's car, This cured it.
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Old 02-28-2013, 05:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Cream View Post
Try putting a little chamfer on the leading edge of the thread on the cap, It helps to retain the 'o'ring. I had the same issue with both mine and my Son's car, This cured it.
I was going to mention this also but didn't know if he was talking about the upper cap (where this mod helps alot you just take sand paper to the inner edge of the cap) or if he was talking about the lower caps.
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Old 03-02-2013, 12:12 AM
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Created the chamfer in the shock cap, worked like a charm! Thx
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Old 03-02-2013, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by glenng View Post
right on Raul. you get all the fun parts! im running the carbon +8 with Bman's braces, i think he used your carbon as the template to make my front skid. the chassis is like bulletproof with the bracing to the point im constantly snapping a-arms now (im a crappy driver, cant lie). better off a 10 dollar a-arm over a 100+ chassis though. but anyway, how did that chassis work out?
Glen,

The RcJunky chassis works great. My car feels more stable than ever. I also received my Tresrey chassis yesterday so there is going to be a +8 car and a +10 car. The Tresrey chassis is like a piece of fine jewelry.
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Old 03-02-2013, 12:19 PM
  #10440  
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Originally Posted by Raul Garcia View Post
Glen,

The RcJunky chassis works great. My car feels more stable than ever. I also received my Tresrey chassis yesterday so there is going to be a +8 car and a +10 car. The Tresrey chassis is like a piece of fine jewelry.
Put up a pic of the + ten when you get it together! Will you still use the +8 body?
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