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Old 01-23-2013, 02:18 PM
  #9826  
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Originally Posted by zipperfoot View Post
What would you like to see in a V2 version?
+8 chassis, big bore shocks, hex wheels all around, multi pad slipper, aluminum steering rack, etc.

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Old 01-23-2013, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Jim Frahm View Post
+8 chassis, big bore shocks, hex wheels all around, multi pad slipper, aluminum steering rack, etc.

Jim
It already comes with big bore shocks in case you didn't notice.... All they really need is to make it a little better "spec" with real shock collars, bottom caps (not plastic), aluminum hexes, and a long chassis, whether it be plastic or aluminum.
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Old 01-23-2013, 03:39 PM
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I am in need of some advise. I continue to break my cervo case in my 2 wheel buggy. Do you have any suggestions on how I may prevent this from happening?
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Old 01-23-2013, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by kold blood View Post
I am in need of some advise. I continue to break my cervo case in my 2 wheel buggy. Do you have any suggestions on how I may prevent this from happening?
What servo are you running? Are you using the rubber grommets? Are your end-points set right?

Originally Posted by lv4sndz View Post
Anybody know were i can get one of those 8racing carbon chassis in the US????
http://www.tsrproducts.com/index.php...ng-dex210.html
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Old 01-23-2013, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by zipperfoot View Post
What would you like to see in a V2 version?
+8 aluminum chassis, aluminum rear locking hexes, aluminum/cf steering rack and plate, upgrade plastic shock parts to aluminum, captured ball caps/ends, a servo saver in the kit (like the RTR one), aluminum thumb screws for battery holder, a +8 NON cab forward body.... just a few I'd like to have... maybe a gear diff too.
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Old 01-23-2013, 05:51 PM
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Futaba sevo, Yes I'm using rubber grommets and my end points are set correctly. But, breaking the 2 mounts that holds the servo on there, always on the left side.
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Old 01-23-2013, 09:35 PM
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maybe try no gromets. Maybe theres too much flex on one side putting leverage on the other. I've always ran no servo saver/solid mount servo without any sevo issues (low pro and full size)

Tonight I ran my +8mm for the first time on out turf track and I'm really impressed. I changed nothing else set up wise and gained some much needed on power steering. With turf being so high grip, you really need to work on getting rid of the grip while keeping a predictable car, and the chassis did that.
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Old 01-24-2013, 12:40 AM
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Originally Posted by kold blood View Post
Futaba sevo, Yes I'm using rubber grommets and my end points are set correctly. But, breaking the 2 mounts that holds the servo on there, always on the left side.
Is this being caused by you lawn darting and the battery slamming forward. That is the only thing I can think of that would cause this to break.
Make sure battery strap is tight. RECOMMENDED to ream out the 2 holes on the battery strap so when your tightening down the thumb screw it just doesn't snap since the holes are smaller than the part of the thumb screw that goes into that portion of the battery strap, this will allow you to tighten it more.

Possibly add foam between battery and servo if you don't already.
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Old 01-24-2013, 03:44 AM
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Hey guys needs some suggestions to gain a little onpower steering. I race on high bite carpet. Other then that the buggy is awesome.
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Old 01-24-2013, 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by kold blood View Post
I am in need of some advise. I continue to break my cervo case in my 2 wheel buggy. Do you have any suggestions on how I may prevent this from happening?
Use some servo tape to hold battery in place unless you need to take it out often. I charge my packs right in place in all my cars for the most part. 3M makes this heavy duty grey tape, there is no better iMO. Staples carries it. This keeps the pack from slamming around. Still use the battery strap. No need for foam spacers if u do this as well.
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Old 01-24-2013, 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by kold blood View Post
Futaba sevo, Yes I'm using rubber grommets and my end points are set correctly. But, breaking the 2 mounts that holds the servo on there, always on the left side.
I attached a photo to help us understand what you are talking about. Thats a Futaba servo in my photo. Are you breaking piece one or two in my photo? If you are breaking piece one they make them in aluminum at Exotek. If it's piece two that may be more difficult to figure out.

I have never broke either piece, but I can speak from experience the front end of the buggy is pretty tuff. Your breakage must be happening because of something else.

Are you using any metal parts that would make other plastic parts in the area weaker? Example would be aluminum towers, aluminum hinge pin mount, etc. These parts themselves would not cause the other part to break, but in a collision, the force of an impact gets transferred to the weaker part. Have you changed the length of the screws or added washers?

Second, it may be that your endpoints are set too far apart and causing the steering linkage to "lock" when turned to the max. This might cause a jarring effect on other parts in a turn, but again an impact or high force of some sort would have to occur.

The only other thing I could suggest would be to check for binding issues. If something is sticking and causing pressure on the servo arm, that might lead to a break.

You said the part is breaking on the same side, but what were you doing when the part broke?

I'm no expert. This is the best i can come up with.

Last edited by zipperfoot; 09-19-2014 at 02:26 PM.
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Old 01-24-2013, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Potoczak View Post
Hey guys needs some suggestions to gain a little onpower steering. I race on high bite carpet. Other then that the buggy is awesome.
I was searching for the same thing. My +8mm did just that, so you could either try the dimec20, or wait wait for mine to be available. You could also try less rear toe, but that will also get rid of some stability.
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Old 01-24-2013, 04:47 PM
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This talk about chassis has me as confused as ever. I have a dimec20 +8mm but feel like if I am going to go for more flex I should skip that and go to the regular dimec. Its a bit cooler where we race. Has anyone run the dimec20 and can report on it?

I am happy to say that I finally figured out this buggy and I had a great time with it last night. Until now I have been surviving the races but now I can drive it. The losi guys liked it. I am in a losi dominated area.
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Old 01-24-2013, 04:47 PM
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This talk about chassis has me as confused as ever. I have a dimec20 +8mm but feel like if I am going to go for more flex I should skip that and go to the regular dimec. Its a bit cooler where we race. Has anyone run the dimec20 and can report on it?

I am happy to say that I finally figured out this buggy and I had a great time with it last night. Until now I have been surviving the races but now I can drive it. The losi guys liked it. I am in a losi dominated area.
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