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Old 12-08-2012, 05:08 PM   #9076
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Default Jconcepts body

Will the body fit 8mm chassis and the aluminum chassis?? Also how about the mid motor and rear motor configurations ??
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Old 12-08-2012, 06:03 PM   #9077
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I feel I really have my standard chassis buggy dialed in at the moment. I practiced last night at SRS here is AZ and felt I turned some respectable and consistant lap times. The buggy felt great, and very stable.

I am going to stick to the old "if it ain't broke don't fix it" mantra, but I can't help but wonder if the dime +8 would be even better? Or just different...
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Old 12-08-2012, 06:47 PM   #9078
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Originally Posted by Ssilverfz1 View Post
Does anybody use one? If so which is the best?
I remember a while back people saying the losi 22 ones are a direct replacement.
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Old 12-08-2012, 06:49 PM   #9079
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Quick question for you guys, I'm new to the 210 but not new to building kits. I followed the diff build video to a T and have the diff tight enough so that I can just barely turn the outdrives by hand. Strange thing is I can hold the gear and wiggle the outdrives back and forth like something isn't seated right against the diff faces. Am I missing something here or when it's installed and ran in will it tighten up?
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Old 12-08-2012, 07:15 PM   #9080
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Originally Posted by zipperfoot View Post
I feel I really have my standard chassis buggy dialed in at the moment. I practiced last night at SRS here is AZ and felt I turned some respectable and consistant lap times. The buggy felt great, and very stable.

I am going to stick to the old "if it ain't broke don't fix it" mantra, but I can't help but wonder if the dime +8 would be even better? Or just different...
I switched to the dimec 20 and it is SO much better. Do yourself a favor and try it out.
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Old 12-08-2012, 07:26 PM   #9081
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Originally Posted by WideOpenThrottle RC View Post
Quick question for you guys, I'm new to the 210 but not new to building kits. I followed the diff build video to a T and have the diff tight enough so that I can just barely turn the outdrives by hand. Strange thing is I can hold the gear and wiggle the outdrives back and forth like something isn't seated right against the diff faces. Am I missing something here or when it's installed and ran in will it tighten up?
That is completely normal.
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Old 12-08-2012, 07:58 PM   #9082
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That is completely normal.
Whew, thanks...
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Old 12-08-2012, 08:15 PM   #9083
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Originally Posted by dolfns1 View Post
Will the body fit 8mm chassis and the aluminum chassis?? Also how about the mid motor and rear motor configurations ??
its hard to get that answer ive asked and i researched the +8 newer design is 7" wide the old style bodys have two parts i noticed its not as wide on the sides around 5 1/2" and the curve is rounded outwards to so it would take some heat or modified i think to make it fit and even then im not sure where the body will line up if it would be all the way forward exposing the space from the body to rear shock tower or if it would go to the back and the cab would be further back , thats why i dont own dimec yet im planing to buy a body and the chassis for $50 then paint is the only other cost
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Old 12-08-2012, 08:30 PM   #9084
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Another quick question, page 25 in the manual shows part# 320128-6 which are spacers. Do these go on top of the front rear suspension holder, without them the tranny sits down flush with the chassis, with these spacers under there it's up in the air and everything is in a bit of bind screwing together. I remember guys raising the tranny on the 22 is that what this is for or is it a mistake in the manual or am I not reading it right???
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Old 12-08-2012, 08:43 PM   #9085
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Originally Posted by WideOpenThrottle RC View Post
Another quick question, page 25 in the manual shows part# 320128-6 which are spacers. Do these go on top of the front rear suspension holder, without them the tranny sits down flush with the chassis, with these spacers under there it's up in the air and everything is in a bit of bind screwing together. I remember guys raising the tranny on the 22 is that what this is for or is it a mistake in the manual or am I not reading it right???
Manual is wrong. Download the manual from the Durango website http://www.team-durango.com/pdf/manu...n%20Manual.pdf
The part should be 310257-4
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Old 12-08-2012, 09:05 PM   #9086
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Manual is wrong. Download the manual from the Durango website http://www.team-durango.com/pdf/manu...n%20Manual.pdf
The part should be 310257-4
Much better...
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Old 12-08-2012, 10:13 PM   #9087
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Originally Posted by symmetricon View Post
I switched to the dimec 20 and it is SO much better. Do yourself a favor and try it out.
When you switched did you have to change your set up or battery placement at all? Are you runing the full size or stick pack? Thanks for the help.
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Old 12-08-2012, 11:07 PM   #9088
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Originally Posted by zipperfoot View Post
When you switched did you have to change your set up or battery placement at all? Are you runing the full size or stick pack? Thanks for the help.
I had to lighten the shock oils a bit and I also added the exotech 20gram brass piece for the front. I am running a shorty pack with the battery positioned at the front of the rearmost battery position.

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Old 12-09-2012, 05:55 AM   #9089
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Originally Posted by jhhack View Post
Seriously... with the sale and the december super saver coupon, 189.98 shipped for the dex210 kit. Cant beat that. Just ordered.
How do you get those discounts?
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Old 12-09-2012, 07:33 AM   #9090
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Originally Posted by symmetricon View Post
I had to lighten the shock oils a bit and I also added the exotech 20gram brass piece for the front. I am running a shorty pack with the battery positioned at the front of the rearmost battery position.

Why not move the battery up slightly instead of adding weight?
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