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Old 11-09-2012, 04:40 AM   #8641
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when I rebuild my shocks and fill em up with oil. I make sure that the piston is at the bottom before filling.

When I filled the shock en put on the shockcap ( without bleeder screw )

then I push the pistion upwards and stop when I have 8 or 9 mm left to go.

this wil result in 2 or 3 mm rebound
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Old 11-09-2012, 06:50 AM   #8642
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Hey guys i was reading about the diff issues..everybody is having myself included...so I switched it out to the gear diff....packed it with 2000 diff oil...man the car felt a lot better..more consistent and smoother...


I run a blue groove med - high bite track...


I would recommend the gear diff ...I'm not going back to the ball diff..

Just my 2 cents...
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Old 11-09-2012, 08:00 AM   #8643
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Anyone looking for a great set of new tires...
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...5-shipped.html
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Old 11-09-2012, 08:15 AM   #8644
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For the DIME chassis, which would be the one that is the most universal to use? I race where in general its extremely loose, so I am thinking the low temp one. But, in the winter I will be doing indoors carpet. Should I just use the alloy then for carpet in MM config?
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Old 11-09-2012, 09:14 AM   #8645
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Quote:
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For the DIME chassis, which would be the one that is the most universal to use? I race where in general its extremely loose, so I am thinking the low temp one. But, in the winter I will be doing indoors carpet. Should I just use the alloy then for carpet in MM config?
I'm sure you could just use the DIMEC20 (the harder) chassis in both.
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Old 11-09-2012, 11:13 AM   #8646
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
For the DIME chassis, which would be the one that is the most universal to use? I race where in general its extremely loose, so I am thinking the low temp one. But, in the winter I will be doing indoors carpet. Should I just use the alloy then for carpet in MM config?


Is your carpet you run on really high bite? For really loose dirt you would want the DIMEC so you had the flex and help with traction.

I'm in the same vote I run carpet in the winter.
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Old 11-09-2012, 11:45 AM   #8647
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thats the debate I am having lol. Though, the track also is VERY SMALL ... So maybe the alloy chassis would be better for now to just use and then get one specific for outdoor?
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Old 11-09-2012, 01:00 PM   #8648
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
For the DIME chassis, which would be the one that is the most universal to use? I race where in general its extremely loose, so I am thinking the low temp one. But, in the winter I will be doing indoors carpet. Should I just use the alloy then for carpet in MM config?
My testing using stock chassis and DIMEC chassis:

Carpet: Stock chassis MM4
Indoor Loose / MED: DIMEC works great!
High Bite clay: DIMEC is too soft. DIMEC20 I hear is good tuning option.

I may order the DIMEC20 soon, I really wish I can get my hands on a +8mm alloy DEX210 chassis. I emailed RDRP and they say this beast is coming mid DEC...: http://www.rcdriver.com/rcd/index.ph...urango-dex210/
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Old 11-09-2012, 02:32 PM   #8649
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Sorry if dumb question is the car hardware standard or metric hexs? Thanks for the help
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Old 11-09-2012, 02:43 PM   #8650
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mxer59 View Post
Sorry if dumb question is the car hardware standard or metric hexs? Thanks for the help
Metric
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Old 11-09-2012, 07:25 PM   #8651
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Quote:
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I had something similar happen when i first built the car but found it had nothing to do with the tranny or slipper. I even went up a few teeth on the pinion but no top end. I found one of the axles was binding at the hub. With the wheels off everything seemed fine. But when the wheels were installed and tightened down i had major resistance. I had installed the Tresrey rear hexes just prior. Took out one of the shims on the axle at the hex, and did not crank the wheel nuts too tight. Problem solved. I even went down two teeth on the pinion. Plenty of top end.
Thanks for the info, I'll look into that one too just in case.
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Old 11-09-2012, 09:34 PM   #8652
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blingy View Post
ok whhen you guys build your big bores do you go by the durango site or do you have your own way if you have your own way can you describe in detail b/c when i put 2mm under the bump stop wich equals 4mm like the dingo site says for the slim bores im getting hydro lock it would be nice if they put out a video of it
Another trick to use for those irritating times when you didn't put quite enough oil the shock and dont get any oil out of the bleeder. I filled up an old motor bearing Oil dropper with 27.5wt. Whenever i need more oil to properly bleed, I just put the dropper into the bleed hole and add oil till it comes out around the needle. 27.5 is a good medium. And since you are only adding a drop or 2, its not gonna be noticable even if its 50wt in the shock.
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Old 11-09-2012, 09:36 PM   #8653
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Damn, sorry for the enormous pic lol!
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Old 11-09-2012, 09:43 PM   #8654
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Now thats a bright idea there! Thanks!
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Old 11-09-2012, 09:57 PM   #8655
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