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Old 11-07-2012, 06:08 PM   #8626
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I was having problems with my tranny over the weekend. I'm running a ball diff right now and noticed that there was no power full throttle. I littery had to crank down the slipper in order to get any thing going. I replaced the balls in the tranny, plates and pads. Still tring to figure out what is going on. verything was taken out, cleaned lubed and rebuilt as instructed. i'm stumpted. Please help
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Make sure you're thrust bearing snap ring is installed properly.
Thanks Randy, Ill give that a shot, for now I have changed the ball diff for a gear diff. I'll see how that goes.
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Old 11-07-2012, 09:25 PM   #8627
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Thanks Randy, Ill give that a shot, for now I have changed the ball diff for a gear diff. I'll see how that goes.
I had something similar happen when i first built the car but found it had nothing to do with the tranny or slipper. I even went up a few teeth on the pinion but no top end. I found one of the axles was binding at the hub. With the wheels off everything seemed fine. But when the wheels were installed and tightened down i had major resistance. I had installed the Tresrey rear hexes just prior. Took out one of the shims on the axle at the hex, and did not crank the wheel nuts too tight. Problem solved. I even went down two teeth on the pinion. Plenty of top end.
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Old 11-07-2012, 09:57 PM   #8628
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Okay I am making the transition to Team Durango and have started with the buggy first. I got the +8mm chassis, aluminum ackerman, and TDR 3 degree aluminum FR hanger. Now my question is, the hanger is 0 anti-squat, how can I adjust that? Obviously just using spacers will not work right. Can I mill the RR hanger? If so does anyone know how much will get me at 2 degrees?
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Old 11-08-2012, 09:21 AM   #8629
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Okay I am making the transition to Team Durango and have started with the buggy first. I got the +8mm chassis, aluminum ackerman, and TDR 3 degree aluminum FR hanger. Now my question is, the hanger is 0 anti-squat, how can I adjust that? Obviously just using spacers will not work right. Can I mill the RR hanger? If so does anyone know how much will get me at 2 degrees?


Are you talking about the rear anit-squat? If so you can just run the 0 degree and put washers under it to change anit-squat. I messured it a while back I think its 1mm per anit-squat. Just messured the stock ones to know how much you need to add to change it.
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Old 11-08-2012, 09:22 AM   #8630
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Anyone know off hand the sizes of the stock 6 hole pistons like 1.3mm etc?

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Old 11-08-2012, 09:29 AM   #8631
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I believe it is 1.3 and 1.2mm.
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Old 11-08-2012, 09:33 AM   #8632
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Are you talking about the rear anit-squat? If so you can just run the 0 degree and put washers under it to change anit-squat. I messured it a while back I think its 1mm per anit-squat. Just messured the stock ones to know how much you need to add to change it.
Yes I meant RR. So if I have an aluminum front 3/3, and an aluminum 3 RR hanger, then shiming the rear up 1mm would give me 2 degrees anti squat, and 2mm of shims would give me 1 degree anti squat. Am I understanding this correct?
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Old 11-08-2012, 10:05 AM   #8633
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I believe it is 1.3 and 1.2mm.

I just checked its written on them really small 1.3's and 1.2's it comes with. I thought it came with 1.4's too, guess I was wrong.
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Old 11-08-2012, 10:08 AM   #8634
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Yes I meant RR. So if I have an aluminum front 3/3, and an aluminum 3 RR hanger, then shiming the rear up 1mm would give me 2 degrees anti squat, and 2mm of shims would give me 1 degree anti squat. Am I understanding this correct?


I'm not 100% on that, I've just used a 0 anti squat and shimmed it up at the front only to add anti-squat.

You would of been better to get teh 0 anti-squat and done it that way. If you start adding it to the rear the changes it, I would think it makes it like I losi 22 high roll center?

Sorry man I thought it was a 0 anti-squat block you had
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Old 11-08-2012, 11:18 AM   #8635
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Theoretically running the 3/3 front block and the stock rear block, shimming the back up 1mm would give it 1.5 anti squate, raise it 2mm for 0 anti squate, doing that would also raise the roll center which might be good on high grip tracks, something to give a try if there is clearance.
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Old 11-08-2012, 11:54 AM   #8636
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I'm not 100% on that, I've just used a 0 anti squat and shimmed it up at the front only to add anti-squat.

You would of been better to get teh 0 anti-squat and done it that way. If you start adding it to the rear the changes it, I would think it makes it like I losi 22 high roll center?

Sorry man I thought it was a 0 anti-squat block you had
since the 210 transmission bolts to the front pivot block, adding shims underneath it changes the angle at which your transmission sits...
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Old 11-08-2012, 12:08 PM   #8637
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Cool thanks guys. And I'm still waiting to hear from you Friery. Check your PM and your FB.
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Last edited by nismomike; 11-09-2012 at 09:17 PM.
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Old 11-08-2012, 09:26 PM   #8638
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ok whhen you guys build your big bores do you go by the durango site or do you have your own way if you have your own way can you describe in detail b/c when i put 2mm under the bump stop wich equals 4mm like the dingo site says for the slim bores im getting hydro lock it would be nice if they put out a video of it
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Old 11-09-2012, 01:52 AM   #8639
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Originally Posted by MikeFriery View Post
since the 210 transmission bolts to the front pivot block, adding shims underneath it changes the angle at which your transmission sits...
Exactly this, this is something I discovered a while back when I thought I could make use of the many 0/3 I had collecting dust. The transmission case will not sit flat to the chassis if you add any amount of shims.
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Old 11-09-2012, 02:26 AM   #8640
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ok whhen you guys build your big bores do you go by the durango site or do you have your own way if you have your own way can you describe in detail b/c when i put 2mm under the bump stop wich equals 4mm like the dingo site says for the slim bores im getting hydro lock it would be nice if they put out a video of it
when bleeding your shocks, do you get oil coming out of the bleed hole in the cap? make sure you are putting enough oil in the shocks when building, also make sure you work the piston up and down prior to trying to bleed just to make sure oil gets under the piston and everything moves right.

To answer your question, i build all my shocks according to the TD website tips.
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