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Old 10-31-2012, 12:39 AM   #8491
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Originally Posted by zipperfoot View Post
I made the same switch. Very happy so far. I bought all the usual stuff, arms, towers, wheels, and never needed them so far. For me it was the odd unexpected things that broke. Inner rear camber mount which requires a new tranny. Gear cover cracked, rear hub ball stud pulled out, front ball stud cracked in half, RF hinge pin holder, hinge pin bushings.. because if a hinge pin comes out the bushing will NOT be found on a dirt track.

I am slowly building an arsenal of parts because no one stocks them in my area. I started to accumulate, o-rings, washers, nuts, shock parts, shafts, hinge pins, hubs, bearings. May not need them but if they break you cant use parts from other brands except maybe bearings and screws and nuts.

I bought the Avid spring set front and rear. Running red and red, or yellow front, red rear. 4 hole pistons, 1.3mm.
Check with Joe at the Team Terribles store in Mesa. He just got in all the Durango parts for every kit. And thanks for the tips!
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Old 10-31-2012, 12:41 AM   #8492
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Whats Jörn using for turnbuckles and cups?
Lunsford maybe?



Some tips.
Tresrey have a camber mount that can be used if the housing breaks and has more adjustability

Use alu spacer/washer if you have to on that mount and fill the other hole with a grubscrew.
The alu washer will help with not crushing and abeling the stud to move same with the filled hole.
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Last edited by onekiwi; 10-31-2012 at 01:13 AM.
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Old 10-31-2012, 05:34 AM   #8493
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Originally Posted by Tdiddy View Post
This thread needs more pictures!
Fresh build, hitting the track for the first time on Sunday.

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Old 10-31-2012, 06:56 AM   #8494
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Originally Posted by onekiwi View Post
Whats Jörn using for turnbuckles and cups?
Lunsford maybe?



Some tips.
Tresrey have a camber mount that can be used if the housing breaks and has more adjustability

Use alu spacer/washer if you have to on that mount and fill the other hole with a grubscrew.
The alu washer will help with not crushing and abeling the stud to move same with the filled hole.
Also look at how he mounts his inner steering ball cup. Further in.... This must reduce that pesky wiggle wheel at full steering lock? Those look like V1 cups.
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Old 10-31-2012, 10:01 AM   #8495
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Hey guys

mine is 95% done for the winter season in MM4... what is a good suggested starting point for droop? the instructions are setup sheets are usually pretty vague on this... thanks!

Paul
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Old 10-31-2012, 10:34 AM   #8496
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Mounting the links further inboard is going to change the steering in a few ways. Jorn is likely testing a few new parts on his car, that's his job
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Old 10-31-2012, 11:17 AM   #8497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onekiwi View Post
Whats Jörn using for turnbuckles and cups?
Lunsford maybe?



Some tips.
Tresrey have a camber mount that can be used if the housing breaks and has more adjustability

Use alu spacer/washer if you have to on that mount and fill the other hole with a grubscrew.
The alu washer will help with not crushing and abeling the stud to move same with the filled hole.
Those are AE turnbuckles, and look like either sc10 4x4 ballcups or JC ballcups with holes drilled in them for ballstud access.
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Old 10-31-2012, 12:37 PM   #8498
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Originally Posted by The Czechexican View Post
Can you please put up a list of all the parts you used to convert the hole camber steering link setup you have, cups, camber links.
thanks!
Here ya go!

ASC31293 (long head 10mm thread)
X2 front shock tower
X4 front hubs
X2 rear gearbox

short head:
x2 Ackerman plate 8mm ASC31289
x2 rear hubs 10mm ASC31290

So to do redo everything on my dex210 I ordered
ASC31293 x 4
ASC31289 x 1
ASC31290 x 1
Associated Setup W/ JC ball cups PN: 2026
Associated B4 Ti Turnbuckle set: PN: ASC1282
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Old 10-31-2012, 12:43 PM   #8499
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Is that a prototype chassis? It has aluminum spacers in the front......





Quote:
Originally Posted by onekiwi View Post
Whats Jörn using for turnbuckles and cups?
Lunsford maybe?



Some tips.
Tresrey have a camber mount that can be used if the housing breaks and has more adjustability

Use alu spacer/washer if you have to on that mount and fill the other hole with a grubscrew.
The alu washer will help with not crushing and abeling the stud to move same with the filled hole.
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Old 10-31-2012, 12:46 PM   #8500
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Originally Posted by jackcarter3 View Post
Is that a prototype chassis? It has aluminum spacers in the front......
Yes, its a custom +8mm alloy chassis that utilized the plastic side pods from the original car. That also allows the use of aftermarket bodies. Only 8racing and Tresrey make a carbon version of that +8mm chassis. I am hoping an alloy +8mm version comes out soon and does not cost twice as much as an 1/8th scale chassis....
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Old 10-31-2012, 12:50 PM   #8501
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Originally Posted by TAMAK View Post
Yes, its a custom +8mm alloy chassis that utilized the plastic side pods from the original car. That also allows the use of aftermarket bodies. Only 8racing and Tresrey make a carbon version of that +8mm chassis. I am hoping an alloy +8mm version comes out soon and does not cost twice as much as an 1/8th scale chassis....

The carbon version is no longer available.
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Old 10-31-2012, 01:01 PM   #8502
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The carbon version is no longer available.
Thats news to me... I dont see it on the Tresrey USA site either. Tresrey uses 8 racing and is still on there site: http://www.8-racing.de/shop/carbonch...&category_id=1
And Tresrey Japan: http://tresreystore.com/SHOP/OL_TYTD127.html
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Old 10-31-2012, 02:09 PM   #8503
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jackcarter3 View Post
The carbon version is no longer available.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TAMAK View Post
Thats news to me... I dont see it on the Tresrey USA site either. Tresrey uses 8 racing and is still on there site: http://www.8-racing.de/shop/carbonch...&category_id=1
And Tresrey Japan: http://tresreystore.com/SHOP/OL_TYTD127.html

We were having some issues with the +8 cf chassis- after a few months of use Cush broke one, then another team driver did as well in the same place. Cush then broke his replacement chassis on the first raceday with it. Rather than sell something with potential issues the product was pulled until either the issue is resolved or a better replacement option is available. There was no disputing that the +8 chassis was beneficial in most applications (Cush still prefers the short car on tight tracks), but we simply couldn't continue to offer something that was found to be flawed.
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Old 10-31-2012, 02:21 PM   #8504
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It would've been cool if that billet tresrey chassis was plus 8.....










Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonny5 View Post
We were having some issues with the +8 cf chassis- after a few months of use Cush broke one, then another team driver did as well in the same place. Cush then broke his replacement chassis on the first raceday with it. Rather than sell something with potential issues the product was pulled until either the issue is resolved or a better replacement option is available. There was no disputing that the +8 chassis was beneficial in most applications (Cush still prefers the short car on tight tracks), but we simply couldn't continue to offer something that was found to be flawed.
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Old 10-31-2012, 02:34 PM   #8505
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More pictures!
I'm really proud of how my paint scheme looks on this car.
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Durango DEX210 Thread-buggy-front.jpg  
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