Durango DEX210 Thread

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  • coming from an SC10 4x4 where you have a dissassemble a good portion of the car to get to the servo ... Kudos for having easy access to that part even if its not used much!
  • Quote: A Kimbrough medium servo saver will fix that problem. The pros might be able to afford running without a servo saver, but I've learned the hard way my barely average driving skills require there to be at least some give in the steering assembly on open wheel cars.
    Breaking the servo case is usually done by nose dive and the not secured properly battery banging the bottom of the servo. Make sure you have battery stops and maybe even some tape or something under the battery strap to stop it moving.

    If you get a good servo then it lasts longer, it its like some ko and futaba srvos that have the plastic gear they are going to break
  • First race out with the buggy. Not happy. The track had a section that was hard to see and if you did not get it right you would scrape the pipe. my first lap was front and rear t/b flying across the track. I had problems with this section all day. other buggies was hitting but i was working the hel out of the marshall. So whats the fix for the ball cups without spending 90 bucks??? If thats the case, I might as well get another brand.
  • the fix is not to crash on that pipe.

    follow the guide on the TD site regarding turnbuckle and ballcups. and your golden

    there is really no issue with the ballcups
  • Or read previous posts and on oople about them there are a lot of info about what you need to get
  • Quote: the fix is not to crash on that pipe.

    follow the guide on the TD site regarding turnbuckle and ballcups. and your golden

    there is really no issue with the ballcups


    There is plenty of issues with the ballcups, too many people have proven that.
  • The problem is not the ball cups, its just they are very delicate in how they need to be built in order to work there absolute best. If you feel spending the extra time to build them correctly is not worth it then some of the other alternative will be your only option. But I don't think $90 is what you looking to spend no matter what other alternative you do decide to pick. Also lets remember by design, ball cups are supposed to pop off in a crashes.
  • Quote: So whats the fix for the ball cups without spending 90 bucks??? If thats the case, I might as well get another brand.
    The 50mm turnbuckles for the Losi 22 work great for steering and front & rear camber rods: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...e-Set-2-TLR-22

    You'll need 10mm and/or 12mm Losi ballstuds as well.

    There are other solutions as listed on this thread, too, although this is about the best bang for the buck I think.
  • I used the Duratrax Ball End Driver (http://www.duratrax.com/accessories/tools/dtxr1126.html) to build the turn buckles on my DEX210 and they are holding up great! It's probably the best $3.49 I have ever spend to build a kit!
  • You will be much happier if you just go ahead and buy the Lunsford turnbuckle kit.
  • Have any of you driven your 210 in MM formate with the rear Tresrey weight on the gearbox? I really love this layout and I am hoping this weight will make this car the beast I know it can be
  • Thanx qwkpony. I'll look into those servo savers.

    Quote: Breaking the servo case is usually done by nose dive and the not secured properly battery banging the bottom of the servo. Make sure you have battery stops and maybe even some tape or something under the battery strap to stop it moving.

    If you get a good servo then it lasts longer, it its like some ko and futaba srvos that have the plastic gear they are going to break
    I did run the battery against the servo a couple times for testing. And our indoor clay track is really blown up right now. Our top 5 or 6 guys have their cars kicked by bumps pretty often as well. Bowties or Calibers are working awesome...LoL. But usually a BK type tire. So with the rough track, yes, sometimes I try to check up and double single instead of triple. This is where I lawn dart it....more than a couple times LoL.

    So I'll try the servo saver till we rebuild the track in a couple weeks.

    I had to go back to 6-hole pistons cause of the rough track. The 4 holes were too much. But after a smooth rebuild I know 4-hole will be the ticket.
  • Quote: The 50mm turnbuckles for the Losi 22 work great for steering and front & rear camber rods: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...e-Set-2-TLR-22

    You'll need 10mm and/or 12mm Losi ballstuds as well.

    There are other solutions as listed on this thread, too, although this is about the best bang for the buck I think.
    I had a front ball stud crack in half. Since no one else uses the same size, I had to purchase 2 Losi titanium ball studs and 2 losi ball cups from the Losi 22. It was noticeably more difficult to snap on the Losi cups opposed to the Durango.

    My question is did you find the height of the Losi ball studs to be different? I was replacing the inner front camber ball stud that uses 2mm worth of washers. The Losi ball stud looked to be about a 1MM taller, so I took out one washer when using the Losi ball stud.

    I agree that a ball stud cap should pop off during a crash to save the other parts, but the Durango problem seems to be the cap pops off going over a rut, or taking a turn at speed, where most other brands won't pop off until you case the triple or roll end over end, or catch a pipe.

    I always like when someone uses the "Well don't crash" analogy, if only it were that easy!
  • There have been many who have had issues with the ball cups, and many who haven't. They require a little more attention than other brands, but understand other cars have uniqueness also. Show of hands--how many b4's owners out there with RPM ballcups? Or 22 owners running AE diff parts, Or etc.... I have the stock ball cups on my car, and also have them on my 410, and they have never been a problem area..
  • I took the suggestions of others and ran my turnbuckles in and out a few times, with a drill , with grease on them, to get them to free them up... WORKED LIKE A CHAMP!!!

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