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Old 09-23-2012, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
Thanks, here is what I picked up:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Team-Durango...vip=true&rt=nc

Also, got some AE parts here from the B4 / T4, is there anything that works on the durango worth using? (spur gears, etc).
Hey Cain, not much there will transfer over, you can buy a different slipper shaft kit, that will let you use ae spurs, but the RW or Td ones are fine..If you want..
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Old 09-23-2012, 03:37 PM
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well i got my 8-racing chassis on last night and i have to much pack now has anyone hadto do alot of setup changes after switching, like pistons and oil knocking 70 grams is alot. thnx
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Old 09-23-2012, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by flame56mx View Post
Hey Cain, not much there will transfer over, you can buy a different slipper shaft kit, that will let you use ae spurs, but the RW or Td ones are fine..If you want..
Okay thanks for the info. Will package up that stuff to sell then to my buddy who runs AE still.

So, what is the consensus on the stock Alloy chassis for high grip like carpet? is it worth using or not?
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Old 09-23-2012, 07:34 PM
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Building up a MM4 car and the gearbox was tight. Too tight. Anyone else have to massage the gearboxes a little to get them to spin freely? I tried 2 different gearboxes and they were both too tight in the 4 gear configuration. Any feedback would be helpful. A buddy took a little material out of both sides and it's much better, just wondering if this is common?
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Old 09-23-2012, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by jackcarter3 View Post
Building up a MM4 car and the gearbox was tight. Too tight. Anyone else have to massage the gearboxes a little to get them to spin freely? I tried 2 different gearboxes and they were both too tight in the 4 gear configuration. Any feedback would be helpful. A buddy took a little material out of both sides and it's much better, just wondering if this is common?
Hmm, I have 2 complete built trans, one RM4, the other RM3. I have yet to try MM4, but I may do some testing with it soon. The newer built (RM3) is tighter than the RM4..maybe an over tightened case screw, or a spacer missed? Where did you remove the material?
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Old 09-23-2012, 07:44 PM
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It was too tight with no screw in and the cases held together. No spacers were missed. We removed material in one of the holes the shafts goes into. It gave the gear a bit of room to move and freed it up considerably.







Originally Posted by flame56mx View Post
Hmm, I have 2 complete built trans, one RM4, the other RM3. I have yet to try MM4, but I may do some testing with it soon. The newer built (RM3) is tighter than the RM4..maybe an over tightened case screw, or a spacer missed? Where did you remove the material?
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Old 09-23-2012, 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by jackcarter3 View Post
It was too tight with no screw in and the cases held together. No spacers were missed. We removed material in one of the holes the shafts goes into. It gave the gear a bit of room to move and freed it up considerably.
Are you running the ball diff, or gear?
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Old 09-23-2012, 09:01 PM
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Ball diff.







Originally Posted by flame56mx View Post
Are you running the ball diff, or gear?
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Old 09-24-2012, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by flame56mx View Post
Hmm, I have 2 complete built trans, one RM4, the other RM3. I have yet to try MM4, but I may do some testing with it soon. The newer built (RM3) is tighter than the RM4..maybe an over tightened case screw, or a spacer missed? Where did you remove the material?
Check the layshaft bearing too. I installed 2 5x8x2.5 instead of one.

Last edited by Fred Perkins; 09-24-2012 at 05:04 PM.
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Old 09-24-2012, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Fred Perkins View Post
Check the layshaft bearing too. I installed 2 5x8x2.5 instead of two.
They did have a discrepancy with that bearing in the earlier kits from what I remember..
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Old 09-24-2012, 04:27 PM
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There should be no clearance issues running MM4 over RM3. Start removing each individual part until the case halves fit properly. My guess is that either the bearings in the mid gears aren't fully seated or you have more diff shims than you think...the thin copper ones are super thin.
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Old 09-24-2012, 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by blingy View Post
well i got my 8-racing chassis on last night and i have to much pack now has anyone hadto do alot of setup changes after switching, like pistons and oil knocking 70 grams is alot. thnx
Blingy- i have not run this chassis but do have alot of experience with running carbon parts in 1/8th scale, and yes you will need to run less pack/softerspring/softer oil. You may also need to make a few small changes due to the lack of flex on the chassis.. Carbon Chassis will still flex a little.. but then tend to SNAP back into place .. its hard to describe, but they do drive differently than aluminum or plastic chassis.
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Old 09-24-2012, 06:55 PM
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I bought my son the RTR for his B-day on Saturday and we took it to the track on Sunday. I don't know why, but the front of the chassis is already broken at the first 4 screws. It really sucks as I thought this was going to be a pretty durable vehicle. He wasn't abusing it that I know of, just typical track time. He is not a newb and knows about throttle control and proper jumping procedure. Just putting that out there
(2 questions)

1. Does anybody think Team Durango will warranty the chassis as some sort of defect? I mean c'mon, it's crazy!

2. What extra parts would I need to convert to the aluminum chassis? As everything on the RTR is molded into the plastic chassis.

Thank you
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Old 09-24-2012, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by DBL15 View Post
17.5 stock blinky set up is 75 / 34 mate. No boost

So if your going to add boost drop I tooth per 10degs boost mate

So 75/33 with 20degs boost and check temps.
So I am running the D3 with 28/75 and 55 deg of boost. Does that sound about right or do I need more gear?
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Old 09-24-2012, 07:46 PM
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Anybody seen this where the thrust washer will not fit onto the screw? This is the second issue with this build that has brought me to a halt...

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